1989 trans am gta convertible 5.7 tpi have no injector pulse. injectors all read 16 ohms. so at the ecm i checked i have good rpm distributor ref signal. good power and grounds. i jumped aldi pins engine light flashes code 12 so the ecm is powered up. but on the passkey signal pin b6 im only getting a short 5v pulse. and on the data machine reads passkey not ok. so that must mean vats right. although the security light is coming on with ignition and going out when cranking. so to bypass the vats where and what kit is best and what do i have to do to bypass it many thanks

 

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thanks for the reply mate so if i bought the first one the gm vats or passkey 2 bypass module for £14.99 what then have i got to do with the fuel enable wire and starter enable relay will that kit work for my car

 

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i will say you are the man when it comes to this sort of stuff what would you say would be the best way to go about getting the vats removed i spose it would be to get the vats programed out but as im in the uk time i pay postage plus not 100 percent it is that yet im looking for cheap and easy realy if there is such a thing

 

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right so the hz modulator is that a proper replacement part or a bypass type thing cant i just buy the proper replacement part for whats gone on mine

 

the hz modulator will bypass the vats the ecm need the correct signal to the ecm from the passkey module. It depends on what is wrong with yours you can buy a new key, lock cylinder if those are bad but the passkey module itself is matched to key resistance so they need to be bought as a set used prices are not too much but I think a new passkey module is around $300 usd.

 

right bypass it is then lol so apart from getting it programed out would you get the hz modulator or the £14.99 bypass kit and what then do i do with the white wires sorry for all the questions but im rubbish with electronics

 

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ok mate will get that then and get the bloke to fit it for me and bypass the other just out of interest if i got the ecm to you how much would you want to program it out and sent the ecm back to me in the uk

 

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Just measure the resistance in the key pellet with a multimeter.Do not touch the key just the pellet one probe on one side and one on the other.Go to radio shack and buy a resistor/resistors to match the pellets resistance. Go under the column down to the point where you see the two small/thin white wires coming out of the column.Cut them leaving some wire hanging from the column in case you want to reverse the process.(I cant think of any reason you would want to.) If you cant solder for some reason use small butt connectors (tiny ones that come bare with no plastic cover)also found at Radio Shack to connect the resistors between the two white wires.I slid a piece of shrink tubing over the wire first/before connecting the wires. Just slid it down and over the resister and used my lighter to finish the job. The resistors cost me $1.99.Thats it.Try that first.

 

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I just wanted to emphasize how easy the VATS bypass is and mention the connectors.

 

 

right just one more thing on the link you sent me it says if the engine will crank and code 53 is displayed (no codes showing on mine) ecm is not reciving vats signal from the module so if it is the module gone if i match the resistance with some resisters to the 2 white wires will the ecm see that and let the injectors pulse. also when you have failing vats will the car still crank over and disable only the injectors also with a failing vats will the security light come on and go out as it should do

 

The security light should go out if the passkey is working. If the starter enable relay is bypassed then the engine would crank without the vats working. You should ask your mechanic to check the hz on B6 with the key on. Rockauto.com ships international it will still cost a lot but im not sure if you have a icm, ecm or passkey issue.

 

yeah i know not sure what it is its had a new ignition control module the mechanic said looking at the ecm thats been replaced at some point and the vats light is going out as it should but i spose all i can do at the moment is go in stages i will get the vats bypassed first then if not try a new ecm thanks again for the help much appreciated

 

All
I wanted to say thanks, My daughters 91 bird. Died last week. And after changing the Battery cable and Starter. I checked the Vats wiring and low and behold the wire was broke in the column. I soldered in the resisters, and we have life.

Thanks Again
Spud

 

Hi. Im trying to bypass my VATS now to enable fuel.I already connected the Grn and yellow wires at the starter relay. at least my engine wants to crank now. no fuel till i can figure which one ONE of these dark blue wires is circuit 229 "fuel enable circuit wire" i understand that the pink and black striped wire is ignition. but this BLUE wire at circuit 229. well its not written on the ECM what circuit numbers are called. I got the vats by pass module and i just want to be allowed spark & fuel . ive read all the posts and havent heard this question asked. its not that obvious when theres 5 other dark blue wires at the harness. PLEASE help me find the mystery circuit 229 on my 91 V6 3.1 firebird ECM...I just want some spark and fuel... after installing the new starter and popping a code 46 still. i gotta be getting close to resolving this.just gotta be ..the summers here and im in fear of driving a mini van for the rest of my years....lol
I also bypassed the key already with a diode on the wire.

 

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I bought the bypass so id get fuel .i alreasdy bypassed the key resistance and starter relay. Now the car wants to crank but No fuel. still popping a code 46.
im having trouble finding the mystery circuit229 drk blue wire . I have a three connectors to my ecm and the middle one had the pnk with blqck striped wire to ignition. Good thing theres only one of that color for the ignition. this dark blue wire however has two or 3 exact color wires. please give me some direction to find the correct dark blue wire. circuit 229? anyone? Please help me i already changed the starter motor and this is the last move to spark and fuel as far as i can tell from all the posts i have read unless im having issues in my columns wiring. Please help me get this.

 

Yes i do have that part number ECM. Thanks im gonna tap into that wire now. sorry i didnt see this earlier. since ive already bypassed StarterEnableRelay .and key pass. is it still necessary to connect the vats bypass to ignition wire at the ECM? (pink/blk ignition)

 

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IT FINALLY WORKED/WORKS!!! NOW I BETTER WASH IT... i HAD THAT TERMINAL. BUT I DIDNT HAVE THE TAP HOOKED IN CORRECTLY. I NEEDED THE CONFIRMATION OF ITS PLACEMENT AND IM VERY GREATFUL FOR YOUR QWIK SHORT & SWEET REPLY! THANKS AGAIN! if it wasnt for tech men i would know nothing.

 

IM SO HAPPY THANKS AGAIN...

 

 

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Hey TP,
Correct me if Im wrong but Im pretty certain I read that any new passkey module will learn the exisiting keys resistance when swapped.

I just went back and reread
Im looking at a 1991 camaro service manual page 8A-133-6
In the notes.
Im going throught the same problems with this car and have donor cars here for parts
Im wondering if new would be the same as new/used
was considering swapping the modules.
can you access the plug from underneath. Just to do a quick check, or do you have to go in thru the dashpad and down

Should also say thanks for all the helpful posts Ive came across from you

 

It is almost imposable to unplug the passkey module without removing the complete dash.
I have no clue on a new module Im sure there over $300. I have had two used ones I have tossed in the trash
And there was no way I could find to identify them. If you take one from another car you will need to swap out the ignition lock cylinder for the matching key. Or If you want the vats gone for good send me a pm.

 

what if you have no resistor of vats module i have a 7727 ecm installed in my 85 camaro and wont start

 

If you do not have the passkey module and know what the matched resister value is, you will need to send a modulated hz signal to the ecm or Have the memcal reprogramed. If you need reprograming send me a personal message.

 

Hey Brian. None of this makes sense too me. I got the tune but i dont understand the wiring part.

 

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So I was doing work to the car this past weekend and up in the drivers side dash area I found an extra ignition switch with 2 very small wires running to it. This was done by one of the three previous owners. And my guess is that it got this way when someone installed the pioneer head unit. I'm assuming that this was their way to bypass vats. I know I can order a chip to disable vats which I may do, but was also considering putting it all back correctly with the correct ignition switch in the steering column. Not sure if I can being that I have an aftermarket head unit, but it has crossed my mind. Any way I also tried to pull the key out of the switch but it seemed jammed. Anyone have any input or seen this done before. Just not sure how I feel about a switch and key floating around in the dash.

 

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Got a WEIRD issue. I bypassed my vats using the resisitor method, but I did it wrong. I put the resistor on the wire going to the column, and in it's not even plugged into the rest of the vats system at all anymore.

despite that I did that, the car still starts just fine. It shouldn't, right? unplugging the orange wire from the terminal should disable the car. I have bypassed the starter relay as well, but I still should need the resistor

The reason I'm asking is i just bought a 1988 steering column. I can put the resistor on the half of the terminal that stays under the dash when the column is pulled, but do I even need to? it seems to be working just fine as is. really really strange. This car should not be starting, unless a previous owner totally disabled vats in a different way a long time ago

 

Bump. Still don't understand how my car can be starting at all with the terminal unplugged. I know I did the bypass incorrectly, so my car shouldn't even start.

the question is have is despite the issue of my car starting fine without the vats even being hooked up, what do I need to do to get my column from an 88 to work with my 89 car? Is it as simple as putting the resistor in the vats terminal under the dash? (not the one that goes to the column)

 

My key pellet reads 7.35.-7.36

So what resistors do I need exactly?

 

I am curious, if you get your Prom reprogrammed then all you would need is to bypass starter relay?

My car was bought with a push button start and would run fine with it. If I try to use the key in ignition it doesn't crank, so what do you guys think was going on here?

I would like to do the easiest thing possible to get rid of VATS for good.

 

I think now would be the perfect time to add this link =

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-tuned.html

 

Hey guys

I did the resistor method as my ignition switch wire is broken. Car starts and runs fine however, if It's a hot day and the car is warm she'll still go into vats mode and I usually have to wait 5-10 minutes. Any suggestions as to what could be acting up? When the cars hot should you still get a a fuel pump prime? If not maybe I have a bad starter relay and my question is can I test that with a multimeter?

 

I can't find the relay, is it under the drivers side or passenger's side dash? I've been looking and I don't see anything like it!

 

The relay is in the kick panel on the drivers side. . The vats wire is under the dash, close to the fuse box. . Two different things

 

Thank you! I'm dealing with a car that was a tbi and is now tpi but after we put the tpi and harness in it, the starter won't engage once I turn the key, the fuel pump does come on but the starter isn't, I disabled the VATS on the chip but it still doesn't try to crank.

 

Are you thanking for the starter enable relay bypass information ?

 

Yes I was thanking you for that info.