I recently replaced the starter on my 89 Camaro 5.7 w/ stock dual exhaust as it was making noises like it had no power from the battery, even though the battery was fully charged.
Starting with my new unit, while holding the key on ignition, it has a 1/2 second of hesitation, like absolutely nothing before it cranks over.
The old starter on my Camaro never had heat soak issues. I've converted my Firebird to a remote solenoid setup because it had issues with the stock setup.
Today, the car refused to start, with no reason to explain it. It started after some cursing, a temper tantrum, and about 10 minutes of waiting. It acted just like a hot soak issue, but the starter has been on the vehicle for only 4 days. What gives?
-Cornholio
Starting with my new unit, while holding the key on ignition, it has a 1/2 second of hesitation, like absolutely nothing before it cranks over.
The old starter on my Camaro never had heat soak issues. I've converted my Firebird to a remote solenoid setup because it had issues with the stock setup.
Today, the car refused to start, with no reason to explain it. It started after some cursing, a temper tantrum, and about 10 minutes of waiting. It acted just like a hot soak issue, but the starter has been on the vehicle for only 4 days. What gives?
-Cornholio
Supreme Member
Use a spare headlight (because it puts a load on the circuit) and connect it across the M terminal of the starter and ground.
Then connect a voltmeter across the M terminal and ground.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what the problem is and what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
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Happy Racing!
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I Didn’t, The Track Moved
Then connect a voltmeter across the M terminal and ground.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what the problem is and what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Didn’t, The Track Moved