I've got a 1988 GTA with Hatch Motor issues. It worked fine until yesterday. The lid will latch, but the motor will not engage and pull it down. Therefore, the hatch is not completely closed, but is not floppong up and down. When I try to open the hatch from inside the car I can hear the latch but nothing happens. Also while trying to open from the inside the brake light on the instrument panel lights up. So, is there a fuse that could be blown? Is there a stand alone fuse? I looked in my manual, and there is a fuse, but it also handles other things that are currently working, so I don't think it's the fuse in the fuse block.

Any help is appreciated.

jeff

 

 

Thanks Nina. I got the motor to work, but now it just goes up and down continually. I think the plastic housing is broken, as the slides on each side seem to be fine. I still need to look at it more closely this weekend, but at least I got it set up where the lid in the closed position, but not lock. Really appreciate the advice .

Jeff

 

I'm having the same issue with my 1992 Camaro RS. The motor is stuck in the down position and the luggage compartment lamp is now inoperative. According to my 1992 GM Camaro service manual, if there are problems with the pull-down motor then the light will not illuminate because it all goes through the same relay. If you remove the rear-most interior panel, you'll see a black inline relay to the left of the motor. Following the trouble-shooting flowchart, most issues with the latch assembly are either relay or connector related. The cost for said relay is approximately $8.00 at most auto parts stores. That said: Since mine went out late today, I'll purchase a relay in the morning and hope that cures the problem. I'll advise you if that worked for me so you can try it as well.

 

jcoeracing97,

Thanks for your response and info. I've replaced the relay already, and the motor does work. However, the problem now is that I can get it to stop going up and down once the lid is latched. It continues to go up and down as long as it's latched. I haven't had time to deal with it, but have been told that it may be the plastic slides on each side, or that the plastic housing is broken, and not holding the motor in place. If anyone else can shed some light on this issue I'd certainly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Jeff,

I'll post the flowchart that mimics your particular issue since the GM manual addresses it as well.

Dale

 

Thanks Dale.... Hopefully it'll help me with this issue

 

According to the flow chart in the manual, it would appear that the trunk release switch is bad. However, before replacing it, remove the single screw that holds it to the latch assembly. Toggle the "T Shaped" switch up/down several times then snap it back into place, ensuring that both contacts on the switch engage the motor then try it.
I did replace the relay today on mine and it restored power. When it did power up, the latch stuck in the "UP" position. I removed the switch and toggled the "T" switch. For whatever reason, I had to move the switch on the console while working the key to get the motor to cycle through several times before it worked properly.
Let me know if this helped or not.

 

Thanks Dale. I'll take a look at the truck release switch tonight if I have time, but if not it'll be this weekend. Is the trunk release switch hard to see? Can I see it from standing at the back of the trunk, or will I actually have to get inside of the trunk itself? If it's the switch, hopefully it's an easy fix/replacement..

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Jeff,
Remove the rear-most interior panel to expose the latch assembly, There are two connectors (C1 & C2) opposite from eachother that are plugged into the switch. One screw holds it in place. That component is your switch...

 

This info applies only to the late 91-92 hatch motor (which have a tan colored molded plastic frame where it is attached to the body). If your motor rises, then goes back down without unlatching the hatch hook, the problem is either the small black plastic ramp that is attached to the back of the frame with two small screws is broken or missing. If it is in place and god, the problem can also be caused by the plastic lever that is on the back side of the latch being broken.

How this is supposed to work is when you press the hatch release switch the motor will energize up. As it rises, near the end of the up cycle the plastic lever on the back side of the latch will make contact with the ramp and rotate 90 degrees to unlatch the hatch hook. There is a coil spring that will immediately push the hatch hook free of the latch. If the ramp is missing or lever is damaged then the latch will not release. When the unit gets to the top of the up cycle the reversing switch will be tripped. If the hatch hook had been unlatched this would end the up cycle. However since the latch was not rotated to release the hatch hook the when the reversing switch is tripped the striker-sensing switch will immediately power the unit down. At this point it should shut off again.

Good luck,

Lon

 

My rear hatch motor will not shut off. The latch is stuck in the down position and my trunk will not close! I tried disconnecting the battery to see if it would work but when i hooked it back up the hatch motor came right back on and wouldn't shut off.

 

there are 2 switches on the hatch assembly

the reverse swicth is right above the motor and is a toggle swicth that flips up/down to reverse the motor up or down based on a metal tab. The metal tab is connected to the gear drive that spins up/down. If it keeps going down it means ithasnt hit that swicth most likely

then there is the latch switch right above the actual latch mechanism. It is a black proximity switch that can break. Most likely its that switch. if is not working or not engaging and therefore it never sees the hatch close and still powers the motor.

 

Motor will not shut off = broken gear nut or broken housing (plastic par that the gear nut sits in).

Read the Tech Article I wrote over a decade ago and you'll have an idea how to repair it, what parts you may need and where to get them.

https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/hatchpulldown.pdf

Lon

 

Lon,

I didn't see any info on replacing the reverse swicth in the tech article. Of course I could have overlooked it. I've got an 88 GTA, and I believe the reverse switch is the culprit. Any replacement guidance on that switch. I check with HAWKS, but they're out of the switch, so do you have any in stock?

Jeff

 

Ok I can unplug it and the motor goes off. Meanwhile the latch itself is stuck in down position. With it stuck in the down position it sits in front of the black box limiting visibility. Is there a way to overide this stuck position and get the latch to slide back up so i can at least close the trunk. Could it be the relay or fuse? I hear the relay click everytime i plug motor back up. Is there a fuse that would cause this up front under dash?

 

Check out the pics....

Is the relay wired properly? It was strange to have the one wire exposed. Also the housing is cracked. Lon are we still saying gear nut? Just want to be sure before I disassemble. Any help would be great.

 

If you are referring to the white wire with small black connector, ignore it. It is not used. It was used on late 89 thru 91.5 to turn on and off the rear hatch light. Read the instructions and find out what is wrong. Repair the cracked housing. If you have questions about the reversing switch call me Monday or e-mail me and I'll send you instructions how to test the reversing switch.

Lon