For the love of all that is good, help!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 16
From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
For the love of all that is good, help!
Okay, so this has been a headache since I bought the car last year. My rear hatch light and motor DO NOT work. I have gone through the wiring, I have taken parts from other cars at the junkyard. And I can't for the life of me, figure this out. I have looked at the wiring guides, they do not help. Someone help me. xD .
Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 346
Likes: 2
From: Tampa
Car: 1990 IROC-Z/1980 Firebird
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: For the love of all that is good, help!
It's hard to say what to do without knowing everything you've done. I would use a DMM to check the voltage at the connectors. If that's no good, I would probably start taking interior panels out (driver's side I think) and look for a break in the wiring. I would also check the switch the same way. If your car had an alarm on it, someone may have tapped into this somewhere (probably under the dash on the driver's side) and that could be why they don't work.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 16
From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
Re: For the love of all that is good, help!
It's hard to say what to do without knowing everything you've done. I would use a DMM to check the voltage at the connectors. If that's no good, I would probably start taking interior panels out (driver's side I think) and look for a break in the wiring. I would also check the switch the same way. If your car had an alarm on it, someone may have tapped into this somewhere (probably under the dash on the driver's side) and that could be why they don't work.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 14
From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: For the love of all that is good, help!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 14
From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: For the love of all that is good, help!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Flipping His Lid
The switch energizes a relay when the switch completes a path to ground.
You can use a jumper wire to see if the switch is bad, or if it’s a problem in the rest of the circuit.
The fuses associated with the hatch are the ACC fuse and the LID fuse.
The ACC fuse provides power to the release switch.
The LID fuse provides power to the motor.
Make sure the ground wire for it is making good ground contact.
Then probe for power at the dark blue wire at the 4 wire connector that plugs into the unit.
There needs to be power there regardless of the ignition key position..
If there is power there, disconnect power from the unit, then disconnect the 4 pin connector, then using an ohmmeter probe between where the dark blue wire connected, and where the brown wire connected, and note the reading.
Now reverse the ohmmeter probes on those contacts, and note the reading.
On those 2 readings one should be higher than the other.
If you get infinity both readings, either the latch sensing diode is bad, or the motor is bad, or there is a bad connection to it inside the unit.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Don’t Mind Wreckin’ On The Track, No Paperwork To Fill Out
You can use a jumper wire to see if the switch is bad, or if it’s a problem in the rest of the circuit.
The fuses associated with the hatch are the ACC fuse and the LID fuse.
The ACC fuse provides power to the release switch.
The LID fuse provides power to the motor.
Make sure the ground wire for it is making good ground contact.
Then probe for power at the dark blue wire at the 4 wire connector that plugs into the unit.
There needs to be power there regardless of the ignition key position..
If there is power there, disconnect power from the unit, then disconnect the 4 pin connector, then using an ohmmeter probe between where the dark blue wire connected, and where the brown wire connected, and note the reading.
Now reverse the ohmmeter probes on those contacts, and note the reading.
On those 2 readings one should be higher than the other.
If you get infinity both readings, either the latch sensing diode is bad, or the motor is bad, or there is a bad connection to it inside the unit.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Don’t Mind Wreckin’ On The Track, No Paperwork To Fill Out
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