So I have the dashboard of my car in my living room and rewiring it to go with my 400 set-up. I'm going to use the starter relay circuit (A3 on schematic) to ground a relay on the primary ignition circuit as an engine disable system with out the key. Now I'm testing all the circuits before I put it back in the car, and I went to test the VAT system. Checked continuity on all wires: passes. Terminals are all in correct connector slots. Connected the ECM and VATS fuses to power BEFORE hooking the two leads that read the resistance in the key (A6 and B2). A3 did not go to ground. So what the computer saw was the ignition "turned on" through the ECM fuse before reading the key.

Would it read this as a hotwire situation? If so, did it lock the module? Thanks.

 

Did you have the correct resistance between A6 and B2 , if not nothing would happen;
the VATS module would not activate the enable relay ( ground A3 )

 

Yes, its the key I'm using to activate it (About 11700 ohms: Number 15 module.). There is no excessive resistance in the wires and the resistance values show up in the VATS connector. There is power at both A1 and B8 (I'm using a factory manual). Ground circuit at B1 is good with no excessive resistance. I'm at a loss as to what to do. Should I check to see if the Security Lamp circuit is pulling to ground?

 

is this all the same parts that came out of the car and did they work before they came out? Just wondering, if this is a different VATS module, the VATS module (new) learns the first resistance is measures and stores that resistance for life. So if the module came from someone else, you need to figure out which pellet resistance to use.

 

Well I just got it to ground out consistently. Pulled my ignition cylinder to make sure the key was contacting. New problem. Its showing 566 ohms through the relay circuit at A3. To me this seems very excessive, I'd think it'd be way too much to energize a relay. Am I wrong? Is this a normal amount of resistance? The wire end and the terminal end at A3 have no resistance, so it must be through the module. I'll backprobe between A3 and B1 to confirm this.

EDIT: Yes its all original and worked before.

 

Just hooked up a relay. She clicks right away. I must've kept putting the module into lock mode. The security lamp was staying illuminated and I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong, I think the key wasn't making good contact on the leads without the lock cylinder (huh, go figure right?). sorry for this pointless thread, mods can go ahead and delete it.