Eagle223usa

I have searched and tried almost everything. I replaced the starter, starter enable relay, the "module" under the dash. I did the checks in the shop manual, I have power in and out of the starter enable relay, in and out of the neutral safety switch. I did by pass the switch and it started once, and not again. I am at my wits end, any thoughts?

Eagle223usa

Ok, I jumped the staryter enable relay and it cranks but wont start. What ****ing wires do I twist together to get it to run? Anyone know? Thanks

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

If you changed the VATS module, that means the resistance it is looking for in the key will have changed as well.

Go here: http://vats.likeabigdog.com/, it gives the 15 possible resistances VATS can have. Find the right one and perform the bypass.

Eagle223usa

I didn't change the VATS module. It's some other 5 or 6 pin interior power mod. (That cost 120 bucks) My buddy, the Pro Mechanic stopped over. After he worked on it for an hour. Its the vats something. He's going to call his buddy who is a GM mechanic and see if we can get it fixed. It really sucks though. 5 YEAR restoration, everything new, summer time and this POS decides to just not start. Good job GM. My next car will be a Ford.

Eagle223usa

Thanks for the reply though...

Ron U.S.M.C.

If you get tired of playing around with VATS than get RID of it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-tuned.html

Side note = Not only did the new EPROM get rid of VATS but the 1992 PROM has taken care of other issues I was having.

I could not get the air/fuel adjustments correct because of the old EPROM I had.

I installed the EPROM he sent and the car has been running "excellent". Starts every time and no more stalling at lights. It even runs stronger/more responsive.

Eagle223usa

Well Ron, That is exactly what I need! I am so frustrated with this system and this car. I actually called and dropped the insurance on it today. I will get in touch with them as soon as possible. Are they a member here under the handle Tuned Performance? Thanks Brother!

Ron U.S.M.C.

Yes, Tuned Performance is a member.
He's actually a sponsor here.

Heres a link to find members.
Just use the search for "members box" = https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/members/list/

Eagle223usa

Ron, do you have a contact number for Brian? Thanks.

Ron U.S.M.C.

This is what I have .

Just click on Contact info. =
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/member.php?u=138103

Eagle223usa

I got a hold of him, Thanks again.

Eagle223usa

I got an email from Brian and my chip is on the way back. I hope this solves my problem. I'll let you all know.

Eagle223usa

Ok, I got the chip installed and jumped the starter enable relay. Now it cranks fine but I have no power going to the fuel pump. Any thing else I need to jump? Thanks.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Double check fuses

Eagle223usa

Copy that.

Eagle223usa

Fuses are good.

NINÅ

Eagle223usa

No, the pump does not prime at all now.

Eagle223usa

Still no luck.

Ron U.S.M.C.

You can check the fuel pump relay.
You might have to pull out the book because its a little different than the standard relay/circuit I'm familiar with.

I found these =

This video explains how the circuit works in the introduction/first 5 minutes. A must see =
Another link to all the videos =
https://www.google.com/search?source...MP+RELAY+WORKS

Eagle223usa

I worked on it last weekend, no answers...then I ran out of beer.

NINÅ

TRANSAM82-92

iTrader: (1)

OHM key to find resistance. Pull orange wire coming from column near bottom, cut it, splice in resistor of same value going to VAT box....that will eliminate that problem for good...

Eagle223usa

Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay is located on an 89 5.7 Iroc?

Eagle223usa

Never mind, found a pic on google.

Eagle223usa

These are really great cars, until your computer Fs' up and then they suck.

Eagle223usa

.

Bubbajones_ya

It's unfortunate you're having all these problems, I know they can be frustrating.

Have you been able to tell if the fuel pump relay is any good? If so, have you been able to test if fuel has been getting to the cylinder? If you have a TPI engine, it will be a bit harder to test for this than the TBI, but one (unsafe) way to test it to unbolt your fuel rail and see if fuel is coming from the injectors when the key is set to run. There may be other ways but I can't think of them off the top of my head unless TPI vehicles come equipped with a schrader valve on the fuel rail. If they do, then just depress the valve after turning the key to run. On TBI engines, you can just unbolt the fuel rail on the drivers side of the TBI unit and fuel should pour out. It would also be a good thing to check for spark (before pouring fuel over the engine bay.)

There are commonly three parts that can cause a no-start condition randomly (there are more than three, but these three seem to be the most common from what I've read and experienced.)

If you haven't checked these yet, I'd check your:

Ignition Control Module
Ignition Pickup Coil (sometimes referred as reluctor coil)
Fuel Pump


The ignition control module is mounted inside the distributor cap underneath the rotor. It's what has the two wiring harnesses plugged into it. These will cause no start condition when bad, but sometimes only work indeterminatly. Based on yours not starting at all, IF this is the culprit part, it should test bad right away (auto parts stores can test them for you like Autozone.)

The ignition pickup coil is mounted inside the distributor and requires the distributor to be taken out and disassembled in order to take off. I believe you can test it with the distributor in the car but I am not sure how to do this. I believe if this part is bad, it will prevent the fuel injectors from firing so it can act as a no spark/no fuel situation. These seem to be very common culprits of no start and stalling issues, they were for me twice on two different vehicles (chevy and ford.)

Last (common) thing to check would be the fuel pump. If the relay checks good or you purchased a new one (and the wiring to the pump is good), the pump should prime for a few seconds when you first turn the key to run. If this does not happen, you pump may be bad itself. You can rent a pressure test kit from most parts stores that have an adapter to mount into the fuel line near the drivers side valve cover to test the pressure. For TPI systems, I think the fuel pressure should be in the mid to high 30s, and for TBI, it should be around 10-14. If you test the pressure with the key on and it is below those specs, your pump is most likely bad (or have a clogged fuel filter.) If you get 0 pressure altogether with the key on the run position, (and wiring and relay check okay), your pump is probably still bad, or the in tank wiring to the pump may be corroded, preventing the pump from receiving the signal to turn on. It is still possible that you PCM is messed up preventing fuel ignition related mumbo-jumbo, but I don't know much about the PCM functions so I can't help there. PCM problems don't seem to be nearly as common so I would troubleshoot the other parts first.


If your distributor has not been replaced on your restoration, it's definitely a good thing to change based on how old these vehicles are getting. If it has been replaced, double check the timing to make sure it's correct because otherwise you won't be able to start you car.


Hopefully you can figure out your issues and let us know what you find out!

Ron U.S.M.C.

......

Eagle223usa

Thanks for the reply, At this point VATS is totally removed from the car. The only thing that does not work is the fuel pump circuit. I get no prime at key turn. It appears that I am not getting any power to the fuel pump relay. I had the wires traced again and my mechanic could not find the problem, The fuses are good. The car has an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge. When the circuit was working you could see it bump up the fuel pressure at the key turn to run. I have checked the FP connection to the oil pressure sensor and this seems good. The fuel pump is less than 3 years old. If anyone has an idea of where I should look next I would appreciate it. Thanks again.

Eagle223usa

Just thinking about it as watching Rons' video again, The PCM should get a signal from the ignition switch to start the prime. The ignition switch will crank the starter but it must send the signal to the ECM to start the pump. Am I on the right track?
Thanks again.