Ok i have a weird issue with my trunk pop

i have swapped out switches and relays.

and funny enough i didnt even hear clicks in the new relay so i swapped it back.

either way i can't get my trunk to pop with switch or if i do it takes 10 tries and half of those i don't even hear a click in the relay its like it needs time to get a charge or something

i can hear the pull down motor getting a signal and clicking and trying but its like its not getting enough juice to pop.

BUT.... i have a remote starter kit wired in and its connected to my trunk pop wire. with the remote the trunk pops.

any ideas?

 

Doews the button/Relay act the same way when the hatch is closed,... and when the hatch is already open ?? ( soleniod should still function when the hatch is up. )

If you probe the Positive wire ( black wire for some reason !! ) at the pop soleniod is it showing 12 volts ( or more acurately,.. bettery voltage ?? ) Everytime you push the button,....... or only showing battery voltage when it "pops" ??

I'm wondering if the PPD motor is holding the hatch too tight to the body (mis-adjusted) making it hard for the solenoid to release the hatch-bck latch properly.........

 

not sure about the voltage, i live alone and will have to wait for someone to help me it will be a 2 person job.

sometimes the button pops the trunk but it takes many tries and half of the time i don't hear anything from the solenoid or relay. then other times ill hear clicking, meaning its getting power. same results if hatch is up or down

but.... it will pop every time with the remote button. this made me think it was either the button or relay since the remote is working from the starter system. but even the new relay didnt shot any improvement and i got a switch off ebay.

plus does anyone else's cars brake light light come on in the dash cluster when u hit the trunk release button? mine does but i can't see how anything could be shorted or wired that badly.

it is possible the problem is with my shifter wires? like unless properly aligned meaning knowing the car is in park or it will not let me pop the trunk? but starting the car is fine so that can't be it cuz it wouldn't let me start the car unless it saw i was in park.

 

The E-Brake light is connected to the hatch release so that info is important..... was it converted to 5-speed ??


Here is the schematic for the hatch RELEASE - notice how it's wired on the Stick cars. ( Relay gets ground from the E-Brake lever ) This is an 84 schematic, but your RELEASE solenoid is still wired the same way.

 

thanks for the info but no its an automatic v8 FI 305 700r4. but either way the trunk still pops i don't drive the car much these days, I've moved to different states and finally got the car moved down and that plus winters up north i was limited when i could drive it. plus I've done extensive upgrades and custom wiring, but nothing dealing with the brake wires. but i can't recall if it always did that.

its an 86 trans am

 

If the hatch release button is activating the E-Brake warning light - and the car is Not a stick - than my GUESS is that that custom wiring is probably responsible.

I say that because the Auto's hatch release system is not wired to the E-Brake lever/warning light in any way from the factory.

 

Also the connector to the E brake handle can become loose and less than 100% dependable. It can also get dirty and need the contact path cleaned. If it is connected to the E brake definitely check that as it was a source of troubles for me.

 

i just don't see where its making contact with the e brake. i charged the battery and the trunk pops, but still takes few tries, i don't drive the car much, its always in project mode. but this happens even when i drive it around it pulls the hatch down just fine, but whatever guys i appreciate the help but this one baffles me, only thing i can think of is rewire everything dealing with the hatch release and i got other projects to do right now

 

This could be the cause, but I suspect something else, but similar. Is the hatch properly aligned or does the hatch stick out towards the rear compared to the side spoiler trim pieces? If it is sticking too far to the rear the latch can be grabbing on the rounded portion of the hatch hook instead of the center flat portion. Have the hatch realigned to correct this if it is the case. I would also spray the latch assy with WD40, blow it free of debris with compressed air, then lube it with silicone spray.

You can also try adjusting the entire pull-down assy up slightly by loosening the 3 13mm screws, moving it up, then re-tightening. Mark the current location with a scratch awl or permanent marker before moving it so you have a reference point for how much you moved it from it's original location.

Good luck, Lon.

 

Are the wires in the correct position ??

Tan/White = E-Brake

Brown = hatch buton
Orange = hatch button

 

ok couple of problems
my 1986 z28 has been a project for 10 years it was in a barn for about 6 of those years and some years before i got it
my problem is mice cats opossum raccoon and whatever other wild life that felt like moving in did and ate some wires
and someone who owned it originally decided a viper 300 alarm was a good idea, so i got hacked wires all over, i have gone threw all the chewed up wires and spliced new wire in where needed and everything looks good now. but my break lights are stuck on, and my hatch release doesn't work, and my wipers don't work, i am going to try replacing my break switch first, to see if that takes care of the lights staying on. but what should i try for the hatch release and wipers?