No Crank No Start, Big Voltage Drop When Key is in Crank Position
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 Ci Small Block
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
No Crank No Start, Big Voltage Drop When Key is in Crank Position
Hello,
I will try and explain the situation I am in. I have a small block swapped into my car, and I just finished putting a t56 in. I used an LT1 starter, and now if I put the key into the crank position, there is a voltage droop but no crank or solenoid click. It was an auto car and I got the LT1 starter out of a manual 94 and I pulled the manual ignition switch off that steering column and hooked it up to my column as well. Any ideas on what this could be?
I will try and explain the situation I am in. I have a small block swapped into my car, and I just finished putting a t56 in. I used an LT1 starter, and now if I put the key into the crank position, there is a voltage droop but no crank or solenoid click. It was an auto car and I got the LT1 starter out of a manual 94 and I pulled the manual ignition switch off that steering column and hooked it up to my column as well. Any ideas on what this could be?
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From: Wichita Falls Texas
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
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Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: No Crank No Start, Big Voltage Drop When Key is in Crank Position
Just to be clear that your car was an auto. If that is true did you make sure to bypass the switch that made sure you were in park? If not that would cause your symptoms of no crank.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Re: No Crank No Start, Big Voltage Drop When Key is in Crank Position
a voltage droop
Got well above 12V solid at the batt when the key is in Start?
Got ditto at the S terminal of the starter when ditto?
I doubt the ign sw has anything to do with it but ya never know, at least not until ya know... start with the basics.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 Ci Small Block
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: No Crank No Start, Big Voltage Drop When Key is in Crank Position
Thank you guys for the quick replies!
Yes, the NSS is wired to the clutch pedal, and just to make sure I also tried shorting the two leads and that didn't do anything either. If it was just a no crank, I would suspect something wrong there, but the voltage loss is tripping me up.
I measured across the battery, because the first time I went for a start the dash went dim, lost all my gauges and the lights in the car dimmed. When I measured, with the key in the crank position, the battery voltage drops about a volt instantly to around 11.5 and then continues to drop fast if I hold it. I had the same thought about the ignition switch, I actually changed so I wouldn't have to deal with the cable that goes to the auto shifter, but hopefully that is not the issue.
I measured across the battery, because the first time I went for a start the dash went dim, lost all my gauges and the lights in the car dimmed. When I measured, with the key in the crank position, the battery voltage drops about a volt instantly to around 11.5 and then continues to drop fast if I hold it. I had the same thought about the ignition switch, I actually changed so I wouldn't have to deal with the cable that goes to the auto shifter, but hopefully that is not the issue.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,864
Likes: 2,427
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: No Crank No Start, Big Voltage Drop When Key is in Crank Position
If the battery voltage drops like that, the only thing that can cause it, is the battery.
Assuming of course that you were measuring THE BATTERY itself, and not the battery cables or terminals or something. In which case it could be the connections AT the battery. But not likely, if the voltage changes over time... connections don't do that, but wore-out batteries do.
I SERIOUSLY doubt the ign sw has anything whatsoever to do with it. Or, cable that goes to auto shifter. Your problem is at or inside the battery.
Assuming of course that you were measuring THE BATTERY itself, and not the battery cables or terminals or something. In which case it could be the connections AT the battery. But not likely, if the voltage changes over time... connections don't do that, but wore-out batteries do.
I SERIOUSLY doubt the ign sw has anything whatsoever to do with it. Or, cable that goes to auto shifter. Your problem is at or inside the battery.
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