Modern electronic cruise control conversion
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 198
Likes: 1
From: Irving, TX,USA
Car: 89' Sunset Metallic Orange Iroc-Z
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: TR6060
Axle/Gears: 4.11 9 inch
Modern electronic cruise control conversion
So after my 411 swap I have never been able to get the cruise control to work. I tried a new vacuum control module, and several buffer boxes. All the wiring checked out, and instead of spending 70 bucks on an Autozone refurbed buffer box I decided to go ahead and make the conversion to the LS style electronic cruise control. This new box consolidates the buffer box and the vacuum control module in one convenience package (cleans up engine bay). It also eliminates all vacuum lines. It reads the 4k signal directly from my 411 pcm (or any other LS pcm). You could also retrofit this into a thirdgen with the original ECM just would have a slower signal.
Off to my local picknpull where I pulled the cruise control box and the harness which I cut back as far as I could into the factory harness. I pulled it off a 01 Suburban, but I think all new LS trucks use the same cruise control box. On old hot rod forum I read stated get one without a “H” wire. This one was missing the h wire and just had a plug-in place. I was out the door spending $29 bucks.
The way I thought about this was, this box was basically going in place of the factory buffer box under the dash, so that’s where I decided to put it. The factory suburban cable was a little short, another foot would be perfect, but I was able to get it in behind the radio. I cut a hole in the firewall as high and to the right of the driver’s side (above and to the right of the gas pedal).
I originally had the box mounted in front of the lower heater vents but there was not enough room for the radio and the cc box. I then just pulled out the lower heater vents and slid it in place.
For wiring it up I used a couple of different places to find out ls and original cruise control. I cut the wires out of the original connector that went to the buffer box and spliced them into the new electric CC module.
It basically boils down to
-Three CC stalk wires (set/coast, run/accelerate, power on/off) which correlate with the LS CC module wires.
-Brake on 12v with pedal down (different than the factory thirdgen wiring, which is 12v pedal up), I tapped into the blue stop lamp wire running to the read stop lights.
- 4k input from 411 pm.
- 12v ignition on/off (2 of them)
-ground
First I will start with the wires that come from the original connector that hooked into the original buffer box.
Purpose...............Old wiring..........................LS cruise control module
Cruise on/off.............Pin A (grey).......................Pin A (grey)
Set/coast.................Pin L (dk blue)....................Pin B (dk blue)
Resume/accel...........Pin M (grey/blackstripe)......Pin C (green)
12 v ignition.............wherever...........................Pin D (brown/white)
Ground....................Pin J (black)......................Pin E (black/white)
12 v ignition..............Wherever..........................Pin F (brown)
Brake input...............spliced into blue to rear.......Pin G (lt blue)
4K VSS signal...........Pin D (brown) or from PCM...Pin K (dk green/whitestripe)
I haven’t come up with a solution for connecting the cable end to the throttle body. The original connector is too big to fit where the factory cable was. I have a zip tie tight holding it on now. It is holding but I would like to find a better solutions. Open to any suggestions.
Off to my local picknpull where I pulled the cruise control box and the harness which I cut back as far as I could into the factory harness. I pulled it off a 01 Suburban, but I think all new LS trucks use the same cruise control box. On old hot rod forum I read stated get one without a “H” wire. This one was missing the h wire and just had a plug-in place. I was out the door spending $29 bucks.
The way I thought about this was, this box was basically going in place of the factory buffer box under the dash, so that’s where I decided to put it. The factory suburban cable was a little short, another foot would be perfect, but I was able to get it in behind the radio. I cut a hole in the firewall as high and to the right of the driver’s side (above and to the right of the gas pedal).
I originally had the box mounted in front of the lower heater vents but there was not enough room for the radio and the cc box. I then just pulled out the lower heater vents and slid it in place.
For wiring it up I used a couple of different places to find out ls and original cruise control. I cut the wires out of the original connector that went to the buffer box and spliced them into the new electric CC module.
It basically boils down to
-Three CC stalk wires (set/coast, run/accelerate, power on/off) which correlate with the LS CC module wires.
-Brake on 12v with pedal down (different than the factory thirdgen wiring, which is 12v pedal up), I tapped into the blue stop lamp wire running to the read stop lights.
- 4k input from 411 pm.
- 12v ignition on/off (2 of them)
-ground
First I will start with the wires that come from the original connector that hooked into the original buffer box.
Purpose...............Old wiring..........................LS cruise control module
Cruise on/off.............Pin A (grey).......................Pin A (grey)
Set/coast.................Pin L (dk blue)....................Pin B (dk blue)
Resume/accel...........Pin M (grey/blackstripe)......Pin C (green)
12 v ignition.............wherever...........................Pin D (brown/white)
Ground....................Pin J (black)......................Pin E (black/white)
12 v ignition..............Wherever..........................Pin F (brown)
Brake input...............spliced into blue to rear.......Pin G (lt blue)
4K VSS signal...........Pin D (brown) or from PCM...Pin K (dk green/whitestripe)
I haven’t come up with a solution for connecting the cable end to the throttle body. The original connector is too big to fit where the factory cable was. I have a zip tie tight holding it on now. It is holding but I would like to find a better solutions. Open to any suggestions.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 198
Likes: 1
From: Irving, TX,USA
Car: 89' Sunset Metallic Orange Iroc-Z
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: TR6060
Axle/Gears: 4.11 9 inch
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,213
Likes: 1,140
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Modern electronic cruise control conversion
Nice, didn't even think about the cruise with the 411
Senior Member




Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 922
Likes: 33
From: Kansas
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 6.0L LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Dana 44 3.92
Re: Modern electronic cruise control conversion
Getting ready to add this on my LS swap, where is the factory buffer box located? I've read the connector for the CC is in the passenger kick panel. Is the buff box black?
I appreciate you sharing.
I appreciate you sharing.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 198
Likes: 1
From: Irving, TX,USA
Car: 89' Sunset Metallic Orange Iroc-Z
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: TR6060
Axle/Gears: 4.11 9 inch
Re: Modern electronic cruise control conversion
Factory buffer box is behind the center of the passenger side dash. Two 7 mm bolts under the top part of the dash and 2 on the underside hold the metal bracket in.
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