Good Evening,

This is my first post on the forum, since generally I can find the answers to my problems in other people post. I’m getting lost in the amount of my car won’t start threads, and unsure how to check some things. Before I forget 1988 v6 2.8 base coupe, never really destined for greatness, just sort of a hobby car to keep running.

In a nutshell, car was driving fine, and it stuttered once, and within 60 seconds it was dead while idling driving in a drive thru… with kids. Fun times. Pushed the car into a parking space, car would turn over, and sound like it wanted to start, but after 4 or 5 attempts the battery died (which was normal, since the batter was dead, over 10 year old). Came back later with my truck, started to charge the battery, and I replaced the fuel pump relay, and gas cap. Figured it was a good shot in the dark, since I saw nothing wrong with things. I started still started, but it didn’t fire up. Towed it home, sat for the winter.

This spring, I cleaned up the grounds and electrical connections to the batteries (and replaced the battery), had a better electrical connection at the alternator and what not. Reading constant mid 12’s instead of low to mid 11’s. Car sounds a lot strong when trying to start, but still no luck.

Trying to determine if this was a fuel or electrical issue, I unhooked the intake, and sprayed starting fluid into the top of the engine, and nothing new happened when we tried to start it. Maybe I should add the start fluid starts to seep back out in very thin and black. Assuming one day I need to clean that out somehow.

Trying to learn, and figure this out, I cracked open one of the rubber fuel lines by the canister, and didn’t see or smell gas in it either. Several days later while the car was sitting in direct sun line, all nice and hot; my wife told me the car was making a noise. I popped the hood and the line that I had disconnected was making a “sucking” and gurgling sound. I’m assuming it had to deal with pressure imbalance, and I think it was sucking air in. So I’m assuming the fuel line is open. I have no idea really how to explain it or what it is, but it should have about ½ a tank of gas, since I just tossed 20 bucks into it before heading to get dinner when it died.

Sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap were all replaced about five weeks prior to it crapping out. Fuel pump relay, ground connections, battery, battery terminals, and some of the wiring has been replaced since this died.

I’m more of an electronic engine/robotics tech than a car mechanic. How do I confirm that gas is being sent to the engine, is there any specific point that I can disconnect and shoot fuel out as a test? Knowing that doesn’t sound like the safest thing, but effective at answering that question. Secondly, what points can I test with a voltmeter to test if voltage is making it to the engine, or is there some electronics that would impact both gas being sent to the engine, as well as spark for ignition (Would the ignition control module do that)?

 

The ignition control module which usually sits under the distributor cap is known for overheating and failing. That's an easy fix to do. If you open your gas cap and put your ear by the fuel filler neck, have someone turn the key to the "ON" position, you should hear an electrical noise coming from the fuel tank. That's your fuel pump priming the fuel system. Chances are, if you don't hear that, your fuel pump is shot. You can also take the fuel line off just before the fuel filter, which should be right by the back of the drivers door under the car and do the same thing and you should see fuel spit out, if you aren't seeing it come out at the engine. Those are some easier checks. Careful of doing it at the fuel filter as the steel lines like to break and then you have a lot more fun ahead of you replacing that line.

 

Thanks, is there anyway to test the ignition control module? Or it's a blind replacement test?

I think the fuel pump is ok. When I start the car I can hear something electrical turn on behind the backseats under the car, after trying to start it I hear it briefly again. The carpet is out of the trunk area and I got a hole in the rear wheelwells that was going to be my next project.

 

Auto Zone and other parts stores can test it for you. All you should have to do is take the distributor cap off, unscrew 2 little screws, and disconnect 2 connectors and it's out. It's a known part that fails a lot due to either not enough, or too much dielectric grease between it and the distributor where it sits.

 

Solved - Thanks everyone. It was my Ignition Control Moldule. It looked like burnt toast, and had green and white crude on it. Didn't care to test it, swapped and cleaned up the area and fired right up.

 

YEAH! Glad it worked. That's a known issue. Make sure that you put some grease between it and the distributor or it will burn right up again.