Bought a used harness online that's from an Auto car. How do I wire the backup light (blue and green wires) from the manual tranny to an Auto C100?? I'm not seeing the blue and green on the C100 need help!! Thanks guys!

 

It's not wired to the C100. In an auto car the reverse lights are wired to the gear shift selector. When I had my dash out and was switching to a T56 I pulled the wires back through the harness and put the proper terminals on the ends to put them into the C100

 

ohh ok so just run the wires to the correct pins on the c100 the book calls for, got ya!
Thanks man

 

You'll have to buy the correct terminals too, there won't be anything in the cavities for you to connect to and the terminals from the PRND connector are not the same

 

Easy way to go is to run the backup light wiring along with the neutral safety switch wiring. If a person is up to it, the wiring from the shifter is long enough to reach C100. Just a matter of opening up the loom, rerouting the wires, adding new terminals, and relooming. Messy, but easy.

 

I was just going to plug in my b/u connector to my manual tranny, run the green and blue wires into the main c100 connector ( gotta find the part # for the terminals to connect the wires that snap into the c100 ) and it should be good.

 

Yeah, you just need the male and female terminals for both halves of the connectors. Once you figure out the series of the terminal the rest is self explanatory. I'm sure the Mouser # is in my notes somewhere, but I'm lazy, so this should point you in the right direction.

 

I was thinking of the piece you crimp on the bare wire and penetrate the connector to click into place to become a Pin #

 

It does, but there are 3 different size cavities in the connector, I think that is what Drew was trying to convey. You have to know which you're going to use, and then the wire size determines which terminals you will need

 

Ohh ok, I'll have to find the part # to those crimp pieces that I need. Great info guys!

 

Ignore the prices, that was what I was paying for the connectors. I omitted the 630 series terminals from my list
Looks like the board doesn't like the paste from the excel formatting

 

My notes say I used 12015860 for the blue wire, and 12034046 for the green. Those are just the ones on the dash harness side of the connector, since I was modifying the dash to work with an existing 5spd engine harness.

What I was getting at with the previous diagram is to indicate which series terminals reside at which position of the C100 connectors. Once you know the series, you can refer to the GM Service Manual for the wire gauge, and then search Mouser and/or the Delphi sight for the correct series terminal that fits the size wire you're working with.





Just be careful, this stuff is a gateway drug. My dash rewire project has left me with many folders of scanned wiring diagrams, custom wiring diagrams, text files full of part numbers for connector shells, locks, terminals, etc etc etc...

 

gateway drug.. Yeah I can see how it can go from one project to another. Looks like I need B5 and C4 cavities to get it. That would mean i need one 480 series female and one 630 series female. My vehicle already has the male pins on the body ready for it. Being it has a stock T5 in it now.
Awesome info i love this website and the interactivity of these forums.

 

The body side uses female terminals, and the engine side uses male terminals. Unless you chose your own cavities, you won't use a 630 connector.
B5 18 GAUGE 480 Series DK BLU Back-Up Lights Female 12015860 Male 12020119
C4 18 GAUGE 280 Series LT GRN Back-Up Lights Female 12034046 Male 12034047


I bought enough stuff to make one LS swap harness and now I am in for thousands of dollars, lol

 

Scooter you are the man... exactly what I was looking for. I need the male just didn't know what gauge it was without looking at. Gonna order them today, huge help!

 

See that's another fun series of images...

The wire size is printed on the wiring diagram, but wait! There's more! It's printed in metric, because that was the hot new stupid. So you have to refer back to the handy key at the beginning of the section to convert to American.





Are we having fun yet?

For some hoarder psychology reason, I figured it was easier to rewire my dash for a T56, even though I had a 5spd dash and harness in the attic. Figured while I was at it I'd add a few things, move some things around, fix a few things... Assuming I ever get interested in working on the car again, it ought to work pretty well when it's all back together... Someday.

 

So I bought these male part #'s and when I installed it, it doesnt seem to go all the way in. Its locked into place but the male ends doesn't stick out as much as the other pins. What am I missing? The parts i bought had a part number with (-L) on them.

 

The L is just a designation for "loose" part, it is the same terminal

There is a comb that locks the terminals into the connector. You have to separate the two pices, remove the comb, put the terminal in, then put the comb back in place. It is part "C" in the sheet that Drew posted above. The comb slides in from the side. In addition to separating the male and female halves of the connectors, I just did the same thing on a friends car, you have to loosen the nut on the side with the comb, then push the screw in a bit since the screw is in the way of the comb to remove.

 

Wow, what a pain in the ***. Pretty sure Painless wiring came out due to these kind of connectors ha. Our cars are setup pretty well tho so I can't complain much. Ok I'll mess with it today and let ya know. So PB blaster and a pick is my best bet for removing the black tar? I've been running a wire through the hole pin out and gettin a small wire brush.

 

There's no need to remove the sealer really. Someone hear said to use acetone or maybe lacquer thinner to dissolve it, I tried brake cleaner, that doesn't work for sure

You mean Painful Wiring? I haven't used them, but I haven't heard great thing about them. Honestly I like all the Delphi (now Aptiv) connectors I have used. I am actually going to use the 3rd gen C100 in my other, older, project vehicles. It takes about the same footprint, but has many more connections, and still looks stock once I am done. The locks and, in this case comb, is to help the connectors go together smoothly and reliabily, it really isn't a big deal since you're really only going to do it once