Any help with this would be appreciated.

 

92 camaro rs btw

 

Buy a factory service manual before you start cutting wires

 

Already got it. Just was asking for any tips. First time installing one of these. I can read the schematic but if anyone knows anyway better, I'm all ears.

 

One man's suggestion (who has worked with electric/electronic devices for better than 50 years or so now) ;

You want this thing to be wired right ? Really right ? The absolutely best way is to throw away any "butt connectors" or other crimp & go wire connecting devices that came with the kit and instead break out the ol soldering gun and do a proper "Western Union" soldered splice on every wire you need to cut/tap into . The electrical tape gets skipped too when it comes to covering your nicely soldered connections and is replaced instead with heat shrinkable tubing and I promise you there can be no better connection than that . I won't go into long and boring detail of how the crimp connectors suck for automotive applications , but rest assured your properly soldered connections will never get loose and leave you with , shall we say , interesting , troubleshooting experiences with it in the future .....

 

Plan on the soldering and heat shrink. I prefer not to crimp wires.

 

Non insulated butts and adhesive lined heat shrink > soldering . If that's good enough for the aviation industry, it's good enough for me

 

Sure thing Scooter , If your gonna step into my world for your parts ( I an an FAA certified A&P mechanic , retired) make sure you use a better set of crimpers than the usual automotive grade (junk) that most people end up using . Loose crimps suck , and crimpers like the ones in my link are the only way to make sure they're really crimped right . If Slash92rs doesn't want to buy the good crimpers as shown in the link I still think soldered & shrinkwrapped is the way to go

 

PS , you'll notice in the PDF I linked that the crimp and butt splice connectors themselves for aircraft are also different than the usual automotive grade (junk) that is supplied with aftermarket automotive accessories .

There is a good reason why automotive grade (junk) isn't allowed on aircraft , which is also explained in the PDF .

 

I have a Klein crimper for the non insulated terminals.

 

Klein are really good tools , and using one is a great suggestion for Slash92rs if he decides to go with the crimp connectors VS soldering

The non insulated (or see through as in the PDF) crimp connectors are important , and it's also important to make sure the crimp connectors are like the ones mentioned the the PDF , the AMP brand PIDG series , that crimp and hold the insulation as well as the wire to keep vibration from fracturing the wire strands at the crimp point .

 

I love getting good feedback on this page. Just hope I get the right red wire and a little fuzzy on the two green ones right now. Still figuring it out before I start cutting.

 

Just to have a second opinion on this

This is what i have so far


Going off this diagram
ignore the handwriting on system diagram.

 

When you mention "The right red wire" are you asking this because you see two large red wires on the ignition switch ? If so , this diagram from Austin third gen shows two red wires connected to the switch fed in common from the fusible link . looking at it I'm led to believe either red wire will do what you want it to as far as powering your pushbutton start unit goes .

And which green ones is it looking for ? In which circuit , the door locks ?

 

If I'm looking at the Austin diagram right, the two green wires I see at ignition wires would be for trunk and gear selector???

 

The two small green wires you see at your ignition switch are the wires that peg the temp gauge when you turn the key to start , as seen on this diagram . Basically the ign switch shorts the sender to ground , full scaling the gauge to prove it works (Bulb check type function) .

So what on your button start unit is looking for any green wires ? Or are you just unclear on what the green wires are that I just explained above ?

 

Well that makes more sense that they peg the gauges. Nothing in my start system calls for that I think.

 

Great , I'm glad we got the green wire(s) question settled .

Now , I've got a question for you ;

I'm an old man who doesn't read "Chinglish" very well , and I have no clue what those instructions are talking about with the "1st gear of ignition switch" and "second gear of the ignition switch" stuff . But looking at it , where it mentions "power on at starting instant" for the white wire and "power off at starting instant" for the brown wire , I'm thinking your ignition coil's pink wire is gonna have to connect to the white wire VS the brown wire as you have it in your list in your earlier post . The ignition coil must be powered during cranking for the engine to have the spark while starting .

 

I dont speak chinglish either lol I figured it was one way or the other. Thank you for the help

 

You welcome , and I'm not done with you yet

Here's my next question ; You say this is a "Keyless entry and button start , so isn't it gonna have to tap into the power door lock circuit ? Looking at the power door lock circuit it looks like the black wire #194 at relay terminal F2 is the unlock signal that your unit will likely need a connection to so it can unlock the doors .

 

It does need to tap into that. That's a different plug that I had figured out already. It was pretty straight forward and easy to find but thanks for confirming.

 

Cool , now , what about VATS ? Have you disabled it somehow so the remote start function will work ?

 

I have already soldered a resistor pack together for that.

 

Nice , it sounds like you've got this nailed down right .

 

Let's hope so. Lol. I will post pics when its installed

 

Right now I'm figuring out the mounting of all the antennas and whatnots. Since the wiring has been nailed down. Thanks for all the help.

 

Great , I will like to see finished pics ..

 

Got the button to start the car. Got the remote to start the car. Doesnt lock or un lock. Mostly a success

 

Might need a relay or two to convert from a positive/negative switched lock system. Sometimes keyless units and alarms have a switch on the box and built in relays, other times they need external relays.

 

This part. The "Centrolling-lock conncetion".

 

The system is negative trigger. Guess I need to get two relays. But I am happy the starting works. Sometimes it takes two goes lol

 

Oh it works right now... Who knows what happens when the internal Mogwai operating system feeds after midnight.

 

Aviation industry? Poop, 99% of a thirdgen wiring harness is crimped from the factory. With the exception of splices that were generally crimped, soldered, and wrapped in duct tape, virtually every connection in a thirdgen harness is a crimp.

Not really relevant to the thread since OP's install is nearly finished, but a person can wire in an accessory like this, like the factory would. I.e. cut the terminals off the wire and splice wires together with a new terminal, or use a crimp/solder splice in the middle of a circuit as necessary. Just depends how far a person wants to go. Without stripping the harness down and building it back up, compromises have to be made.

 

Let's just hope it doesnt drain my battery

 

Or burst into flames. Or "brust into falmes". Flames are undesirable in a circuit.

OK, I spent a few seconds too long thinking about this, and I'm not even sure I want to open the bag of worms, but... You might could maybe rewire the power lock harness in the car so you wouldn't need the relays. The factory switches and solenoids don't give a rip. The solenoids are reversed pos/neg to lock/unlock, and the switches are just simple momentary contacts. The catch is the stock power lock relay. Depending on the Law Offices of Potter & Brumfield, the internal architecture of the relay, you could maybe remove circuit #40 from C239, and ground the wire. Then move circuit #150 from ground to positive at C239. That'd reverse the polarity of the switching circuit of the car, the catch is that there may be (probably are) diodes inside the P&B power lock relay. I was going to test my theory but the battery in my DVOM is dead.

If you decide to go doing anything silly like that, study it on your own, and accept the risks on your best judgement. Drew-It-Yourself Industries accepts zero responsibility for any wanted or unwanted outcome, up to including brusting into falmes, and summoning Cthulhu(s).

 

Well then, I wouldn't want any falmes in my car. Lol. I got a buddy that's on his way with some relays.

 

maybe I missed it but how will the vehicle start up? Is it set so whenever you hit unlock it enables the starting relay? Or will you need to still turn the key forward to allow power to the start buttons circuit? I looked into this very thoroughly a few years ago but without still using a key or some form of near field communication the car would be far too easy to steal. And if you're still using a key than why even use a start button and the near field communication option can have it's own problems.

 

It's a rfid chip in my key fob. Wont start without it

 

Also yes. Wont work unless you hit unlock