alright guys asking for a little bit of help before i dive into this. im OK with wiring but not great i bought a cheap little keyless entry setup 1. cause i dont wanna scratch my paint and 2. i liked the size of the fob for it. looking for a little wiring asstistance to wire this up as simple as possible. i just wanted to hook up OEM door locks and trunk release.

heres wiring from the alram thing and some pics of 90 camaro/ firebird lock wiring.

 

Unfortunately our Cars use a retarded Circuit (like many other Circuits in our Cars) for the Power Door Locks.


The instructions show that their Trigger-Circuit for Locking the Doors is fused at 10A...
Do the Instructions say anything about the Un-Lock Signal Circuit?

I personally hate the way that the Door Locks and Windows are Wired in our Cars...
I rip all the Wiring out, and build Circuits like Modern Cars; where the Switch side of the Circuits do not carry a Load.
Especially when installing a RDLR (Remote Door Lock Receiver).

The Lock Signal Circuit is probably intended for a max of 5A, and a 8A or 9A Burst (10A Fuse).
I am thinking that the Un-Lock Signal Circuit is probably rated even lower...

 

Is this what your looking for? Besides that it's just instructions on how to use the remote pretty much.

 

Hi Swapper,

Looking at your car's door locks wiring diagram, the door locks are being controlled by a relay (Which lives behind the "kick panel" where your hood release is) which will make wiring that up very easy. The door lock kit you have activates it's internal relay(s) as a set of "dry contacts" which can be configured for either positive or negative switching, depending on whether the car's lock circuit is positive or negative switched (Our cars use positive switching) . Basically what you'll do is to use the unit's dry contacts to mimic the action of the factory door lock switch. In your kit's instructions at the bottom where they show the different wiring configurations they have mislabeled the second wiring configuration as "Negative trigger" when it is in fact the right one for positive trigger (Which is what you'll be using) . Note that it has positive power being supplied through the yellow/black and yellow wires whereas the the first drawing (which is properly labeled as negative trigger) has those wires grounded. So, use the second drawing and hook the white/black from the unit to the wire at your factory door lock relay labeled ".8 BLK 194" , and hook the solid white wire from the unit to the ".8 LT BLU" wire on your door lock relay. Doing what I've said (along with hooking up the unit's red and black to +12V and ground properly) will give you working door locks. If your successful, then you can go about doing the trunk release, which if you post up a schematic of I'll help you with that hookup as well.

PS, I STRONGLY suggest "Bench testing" the unit first, before taking into the car's wiring. Just provide it power & ground on the red & black wires and activate the lock & unlock buttons on the key fob to make sure you hear the unit's relays click, Oh, and, , , ya get bonus points for hooking up an ohmmeter across the white/black and yellow/black wires to see that the unit's unlock relay actually closes it contacts when you push unlock, and that the yellow and white wires become a closed circuit when you push the lock button. If it passes this test then and only then wire it into the car. I bench test ALL aftermarket electronics before I install them, no sense in disturbing the car's wiring for some factory defective piece (yeah, seen it way too many times now to trust anything that ain't been bench tested and proven good)

 

I am late to reply.


OrangeBird just gave you a good recommendation.

I went on a Rant, because I dislike the Old and Inefficient Design of the Power Door Lock, and Power Window Circuits.
I would much rather remove those Circuits entirely, and start from scratch.

 

alright guys. like always thanx for the help. it is greatly appreciated. i did notice they had it labeled wrong. i will try out what you said Orangebird and see what happens. hopefully its as simple as it sounds and works. also if im not mistaken the hatch release is a (-) ground signal for it to pop open correct?

 

Well again guys thanx for the help. It works perfectly.

 

Great to hear !!! I'm happy it worked out well for ya

 

Very nice. Where did you get that cheap little keyless entry set up?

 

right here.

 

Boy that is cheap, thanks, been looking for sumthing like this.

 

no prob. i didnt wanna spend big money on such a basic thing plus i really like the size of the key fob. hate those big bulky ones like new cars.

 

Same here, can't stand those bulky fobs and that price is just right, since I'm not looking for anything fancy.

 

How were things work out for the trunk release?

 

Swapper, where did you mount the aftermarket relay box and how did you route the antenna?

 

for the trunk wire i flipped the jumper on the controller (youll see in the instructions to make it a negative switch) then i ran a wire from the controller to the power wire side of the hatch release switch and spliced into that.

 

i mounted it under the dash about where the headlight switch is and just routed the antenna upwards. so far it seems to be working pretty good.

i dont have a factory fuse block or any dash harness so i have alot more room under there.

 

Appreciate the heads up from Instagram, this has been on my list of things to do on my car, Anything negative about this kit, something you don't like about it?

 

so far its been good. real simple to install and seems to work well. hopefully you have good door lock actuators.

 

Swapper, Some questions?
Based on recommendations from this thread I've bought this same kit, I'll also be installing brand new power lock actuators as my Pass. side is noticeably weaker than the driver side, I don't have the hatch release option on my 91 Firebird, so I won't be using the trunk release function, door lock only.
-Did you hook up the Red/White/Orange wires, the Banvie wiring diagram shows this as "Power window output/ACC/ Foot brake switch, foot brake light"?
-Did you hook up the Brown wire coming out of the Banvie unit going to "Directional Right/Left"
-Did you install the LED indicating light? If so where did you put it, I'm on the fence if I even want to install this. I see this can be a deterrent for some people to leave your **** alone, just not sure if I want to drill a hole in my interior for it.

 

-Did you hook up the Red/White/Orange wires, the Banvie wiring diagram shows this as "Power window output/ACC/ Foot brake switch, foot brake light"?

ill have to look. i just installed this same kit into my buddies 92 camaro since im doing a swap on it.

-Did you hook up the Brown wire coming out of the Banvie unit going to "Directional Right/Left"

i didnt hook these up

-Did you install the LED indicating light? If so where did you put it, I'm on the fence if I even want to install this. I see this can be a deterrent for some people to leave your **** alone, just not sure if I want to drill a hole in my interior for it.

i didnt hook up the light. i have a small battery with limited capacity and didnt want this draining my battery. i had to put my underglow on a switch cause since the controller box has bluetooth it was always pulling power and drained the battery.

 

Strike and a miss
I think I may have a defective Banvie unit, unit has been wired per OrangeBird's recommendations, all it does is clicks so the internal relays are doing something but there are no signals going to the power lock actuators via the factory wiring.
Power door lock actuators and door lock switches are brand new and work as they should.
I have 12+ volts to the power wire to the unit using a fuse tap plugged into the ACC fuse
The units ground wire is grounded, just to be sure it wasn't a grounding issue I ran a wire from the unit directly to the negative side of the battery which is grounded to the engine block
The units white/black wire is tied into the Lt. Blue wire at the power lock relay designated as "A" at the relay
The units white wire is tied into the Black wire at the power lock relay designated as "F" at the relay
All other wires associated with Banvie unit are not terminated

 

So just now noticing the Yellow and Yellow/Black "+12V" wires on the Banvie drawing, these two wires are not terminated and very well could be my issue. Would you tie these in with the power wire from the battery, constant/always hot 12V?

 

Yep, totally the problem, works great! These little key fob’s have some pretty good range as well, I’m able to operate the power locks from 20 yards through a brick wall from inside my kitchen.

 

sorry just saw this. glad it worked out for you man. yeah they do work pretty far away and a nice small size.

 

 

Resurrection FYI, I installed this Banvie KS023 $15 Essentially, remove the drivers side kick panel. Find the door lock relay, splice in the white/blk from kit to black wire then white to light blue wire. Then red, yellow and yellow/blk to 12v positive. Black to a ground and viola keyless entry. Now you can go the step of adding other features like hatch release if you so choose.