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Ok I physically installed my mirror with camera in it. My weak point is electronics more specifically wiring. I don't think I need both power wires but it seems there is one for power with the key and one constant? God help me this just boggles my mind. LOL! I do have a white wire that I think is for a dome light. I got the car with no headliner so I am guessing. I guess I am asking do you guys have any clue what wires I should tap into? I do know the ground is the black wire and I can accomplish that at least. Also I will just snake the wire back for the rear view camera.
Ok I physically installed my mirror with camera in it. My weak point is electronics more specifically wiring. I don't think I need both power wires but it seems there is one for power with the key and one constant?
Hi Ray, Of course you need both power wires connected, the manufacturer wouldn't have spent the money on two wires if only one would do....
The yellow wire marked "B+" needs a constant source of +12V, and the red wire marked "ACC" needs +12V when the ignition key is on. The reason is that the constant power lets the unit "remember" your settings, and the switched power turns the unit off when the key is shut off. You can find places of both constant power and key switched power to connect to at the fusebox
Hi Ray, Of course you need both power wires connected, the manufacturer wouldn't have spent the money on two wires if only one would do....
The yellow wire marked "B+" needs a constant source of +12V, and the red wire marked "ACC" needs +12V when the ignition key is on. The reason is that the constant power lets the unit "remember" your settings, and the switched power turns the unit off when the key is shut off. You can find places of both constant power and key switched power to connect to at the fusebox
Thank you. I was trying to avoid going down because there is also a plug for the unit near the wires. Seems I will have to add wire so I can run it to the box. Thanks again.
The constant power could be taken from that white dome light wire, it's powered full time and the light comes on when the door switch gives it a ground connection. Verify with a test light or meter. ACC power could come from the back of the radio wiring, or go direct to the fuse box. Might look at current draw for those two power feeds as some cameras do draw serious amperage.
Does the car have the existing wiring for the OEM mirror?
Who is the manufacture of the camera mirror, and do they supply any instructions or a wire schematic?
Does it mention expected amp draw, as in how many amps is required for this to operate properly?
What size fuses does this come with?
The factory mirror is powered by the 20 amp CSTY fuse which also supplies power to the dome light, cigar lighter amongst other things, by tapping into this circuit you may overload it depending on the new mirror's amp draw. Plus side everything that the CSTY fuse supplies power to aren't all used at the same time, point being by tapping into this circuit there's no telling what's going to happen till you've got this wire up.
I'd rather run a dedicated line down to the fuse panel and use a Add a fuse tap to make it more of a stand alone circuit.
Links below are wire diagrams Wayback Machine (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org)
First thanks for the help. The mirror is a Master Tailgaters Mirror MR-43-A1. I watched a YouTube video installing it in a RAM through the overhead compartment by tapping into the overhead light. He claims it draws very low power from the car. Maybe I lost the main instructions because I just see the part for the rear view camera. That could be my fault I was moving a lot of boxes around. The guy I got the car from had my factory mirror on the floor and I haven't noted any wires hanging that would have reached it. I will follow your advice because it is exactly what I did in my other car for its dash cam.
Oh see that schematic you posted. That's the part that jumbles my mind LOL!