The fuel gauge and odometers randomly stopped working. So I have the cluster out, disassembled, but need to know what resistances, voltages, etc I need to check for.

 

Small gauges - As I'm told by Atlanta Speedometer, the 4 small gauges rarely if ever go bad - in all their years they've only had 1/2 a dozen that weren't working as should. But, it was suggested that fuel gauge can easily read off due to a not-so-perfect ground. So, I'd check the ground wire on the outside of the tank first, before dropping the tank or cutting the access panel in hatch. Three wires run into tank, purple fuel pump positive, grey fuel level sender wire, black ground - check for resistance between that black wire and a known clean ground - any resistance and maybe you need to clean or redo that ground to get accurate fuel level reading. You should also be able to check the resistance between fuel level sender wire and ground - should be zero ohms at empty and 90 ohms at full. So if you have any gas should be somewhere between. Mine was zero to 180 and I never read above 2/3 tank (weird shaped tank not a direct 1:1 with sender). If not, then you'll need a new fuel sender in the tank - might as well replace pump since it mounts on the sender.

Odometer/Speedometer - I read that the gear can strip - so I'd look towards that. And, I believe the odometer gets its info through a small ribbon cable from the daughter PCB board under the speedo. Check to make sure the ribbon cable hasn't come unplugged. And while there, look at the resistor and capacitor on the daughter board - at this age they lose their substances and fry themselves. The capacitor can also leak onto the board and cause issues (acts like acid). It's a 3.9 ohm 1/4 watt resistor that you need - smaller than 1/4 watt might work at first but will fry itself quickly (ask me how I know lol). Also, if needed make sure to get same physical size capacitor - even just a millimeter or 2 taller and it won't fit. This thread explains the daughter board: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...92-camaro.html NOTE - the boards are replaceable ($140), but NOT the chips - so protect your chips! West Coast Auto Parts uses YOUR chips on the $140 replacement board. [I'll happily take anyone's speedo daughter board ]

Tach - there are new daughter boards available for the tach for $50 - easy swap and cures most all issues. https://www.ebay.com/itm/14336635370...Bk9SR4SulKTrYg

 

Another note of caution: That daughter board is quite the little PITA to get out. It's very tempting to use needle nose pliers about center left to right and pull. Be aware that there is a circuit on the top as well as the bottom of this board, and you could damage those circuits. A better place to grab that sucker is far left and right edges - you have just barely anything on left, and just over 1/8 inch at right to grab. 2 pairs needle nose pliers are better, and small is better. Curved jaws help as well, allowing you to pry against the housing and get some leverage. I used these with success: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-34-i...ers-63819.html