What I have:
1992 Camaro Z28 Convertible with AC

What I did:
Replaced the starter solenoid.
Detail:
The battery was dead by the time I got around to replacing the solenoid.
Pulled the starter, compared the old & new solenoids to confirm the same configuration.
Replaced the Solenoid and then replaced the starter in the car.

What I'm seeing:
Reconnect the battery, connect the charger and turn it on.
I get a buzzing and clicking from the car and then the charger turns off.
I disconnect the battery again.
Thinking I shorted something on connecting the wires, I crawl under and look and see no sign of anything shorting out across the hot lead and the switched lead.
The solenoid has two large ring lugs + the battery cable and a small ring lug to the switch.
I measure continuity on all three large ring terminals:I cannot tell which of these wires leads to the heater controls/fuel pump/etc and which one leads to the ECU.
Would a heater relay have some continuity through it with no power applied? According to the schematics, the orange wire is on the switched side of the relay. Made sure controls were switched to off and re-verified with no change in result.

I'm struggling with an ailment currently which causes me to have very short attention span. Between the testing and attempting to write this email, it's taken me four hours.
Your patience with me is greatly appreciated.
Kendall

 

Just curious on your testing what is battery surface voltage ?
do dash lights work when the key is in the accessories position?
any click when you turn the ignition cylinder to crank ?
security light on ?

 

I am unaware of any of that. The battery was completely flat and I was standing on the other side of the car when I turned on the charger.

 

If there was a short it would show when you hooked up the battery either blowing a fuse or melting a wire. Buzzing and clicking inside and the charger turning off sounds like you have it on boost/start. Set the charger to 2a/trickle/whatever the lowest setting and see what happens.

 

Thank you for the feedback.
So you're saying that relays and the fuel pump should run the moment that you connect a charged battery? The ignition is off, key out of the switch.
The charger was set at 2amp.

 

Pull the fuse next to the battery, key out the fp should never prime itself. Sounds like the ecm might of got zapped.

 

Nothing should be happening with the ignition off and key out except for the dome light. While you may not have an electrical short in the vehicle it's possible the battery could have a shorted cell or something. Take it out and bring it to AutoZone to have it tested.

 

Any ideas on why the 761 ohm on the one ring terminal?

 

just curious why are you measuring resistance to ground ?

 

Stupidity identified. Problem resolved.
Had a friend come over and keep me on track running through the diagnostic.

When I replaced the starter solenoid, I did not notice that the solenoid energize lug had a square base. When the anti-rotation flanges on the starter cable were tightened on the battery lug, one of them comes in contact with the corner of the square pad. Nearly impossible to see.

The buzzing I was hearing was the solenoid stuttering as I was only using the 2amp option on the charger. Also is why the charger shut off.