I've installed an autometer electronic fuel pressure guage and tranny temp guage in a pillar dual pod. I wired the senders sending wires to the back of the guages as per instructions. Ran the GND wire from the fuel pres. sending unit to the GND spot on the back of the guage as per instructions. For the ignition or "switched" power wire I ran a wire from the switched power on my radio the the back of both guages on the "I" post of the guage back. For the guage lights I jumped off the auto shifters drive letters light (OD,D,3,2..blahblah). Everything worked looked great testing out the guage lights, I'd pull the headlight **** and everything was cool, then I tried to start the car......CLICK...NO smoke,sizzle or smell....but now the car doesn't even click...just nothing, not even after I've completely removed the new guages wiring...all fuses in the fuse block are alright also....WTF?? Any help would be better than nothing at this point.

 

I think you may have an unrelated problem that just coincidentally rose its ugly head.

The easiest way to check is to see if you have voltage getting to the terminal on your starter solenoid when the key is turned on. Here's the safe way to test that. It's the small terminal closest to the engine block. Disconnect the battery and pull that wire cluster off the terminal. Note, all your fusable links go to the starter, and one of those could've blown.

reconnect the battery and have someone turn the ignition switch on while you hold the multimeter under your car. Look for the wire that goes to 12 volts when the ignition is on. If it does, then it should start. Because the solenoid transfers the "big" juice from the heavy wire that goes straight to the battery, down into the starter motor to crank it, and at the same time throws the gear into the flywheel or flexplate teeth to turn it.

If you get voltage from the ignition switch, then disconnect your battery, reconnect your wire, reconnect the battery, and try again. If still nothing, then your starter's bad.

NOW, if you got no voltage on any of those wires when the key was turned on, then you've got a bad ignition switch.

That's why I don't think this is related.

The only way it could be related is if you cut into the wire that leads from your start position of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. You can check that by checking continuity between the starter solenoid terminal closest to the block and the start terminal of the ignition switch with the BATTERY DISCONNECTED.
You should get 0 ohms or close to that. If it's open, then you've cut the wrong wire and you need to repair that.
That's the only way I can see that the no-start is somehow related to what you've done.

Check that out and post back on the results.

 

Thanks for the start. 1 other question...would this cause my headlights to fail also? There is a circuit breaker in the dimmer switch, this would remain closed till I correct a fusable link right? I'm going home tonight to start working on it.

 

Were your doors open long enough to leave the dome light on to drain your battery while working on your car?

 

I pulled all bulbs that would come on if I opened the doors or hood. So that's 1 for the engine compartment, interior dome light, and I believe one under the dash. I know there weren't any lights on, I was using a shop light in my garage for light.