Think the title pretty much sums it up.

Any input would be great.

thanks:hail: :hail: :hail:

 

Aluminum can warp and cast Iron can Crack hope hope that info helps:rockon:

 

I had heard of warping but I was wondering what conditions would the engine have to be under to warp.

Are the benefits of an aluminum block more thanits downfalls?

Thanks :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

They are pretty good blocks if they are built correctly. You have to change a few tolerances when assembling it because aluminum reacts differently to heat than iron. On a cold morning you'll want to let it warm up longer than an iron block.They are light, you can run higher compression, etc. I think the aluminum block is fine for a weekend car but might be a little much for daily driving. I'm pretty sure the bottom end is usually weaker when compared with a similar iron block too.

 

Price...
i.e. Bang for the buck

 

Biggest drawback is price.

 

They are expensive and many older blocks have leakdown issues. The cylinders flex and allow compression past the rings. Some of the early Hawk blocks had issues with this. You will see them at circle track swap meets for sale. Donovan Rodeck and Merlin all make good quality aluminum blocks. I run a Donovan aluminum block and have had great sucess with it. On a true street motor I wouldn't waste my $$. On the other hand my 632 weighs less than most 305s.

 

what is the going rate for a good 350 aluminum block?

thanks for you help

 

about $3500 plus machining

www.nescaracing.com

 

I thought the blocks were fuly preped... what machining work would have to be done??


thanks:hail: :hail: :hail:

 

Nothing is fully prepped. Particularly with trick parts. I would strongly advise you to leave all the machine work to your engine builder as he will need to stand behind the work and not get into the blame game. I saw a brand new Zeus Titan "Factory machined" block come out of the crate ($7,000) still needing 6-8 hours of prep. machined is a relative word. your engine builder can give you better info than I can

 

someone posted that an alluminum block would be good for a weekend car but not a daily driver. someone also said that it would have a weaker bottom end. Well, I dont know and I cant prove them wrong. But arent LS1's ALL alluminum? THey are one of the stongest motors I know of. My boss has a 1999 z-28 and I missed a shift and revved it to 7,950 rpms. I thought I blew the motor but didnt hurt it at all. So all I am saying is IF the LS1 is all alluminum then how can they be so tough?

 

i'm not a fan of the LS1, for that fact. I don't see them lasting that long. Did you know that the maximum overbore on one of those engines is 0.010". Thats it, you can have the cast iron sleeves replaced but thats after boring the whole sleeve out then repressing a new one in and only a few shops can do it and its costly. Its an awesome engine but i think they shoulda went w/ cast iron. imho

 

if im not mistaken they also have 6 bolt mains because of the inherent weakness of aluminum.

 

FYI, the buick 215 v8 aluminum block from the early 60s is what is in all Triumph TR8s and most range rovers.