I posted yesterday that I was suppose to get a 350 block, however I went to the guy house today and ask him did he have a 400. His response was, I have one in the back of my friend house. So we went on a little trip and look at the block got back ran the numbers thru Mor-Tec. (330817 400 SBC 72-80 2bolt), Crank ( 3951529 400 Cast... Large Journal 3.75 Stroke). Now My big question what will I need to get about 430hp/450tq on this engine. I know the Heads will be a big factor, so please recommend which is the best for a street driven car. I want to be able to use this Pro-Built 700R4 Street/Strip Tranny and the A.C.T. 3000 Stall. A little radicakl cam with a noticeable lope. The Intake will be Edelbrock RPM and Holley Street Avenger 670.
BTW- he let me have the block, crank, pistons, and rod for $50.00.
I feel like I just commited a crime.
Please plenty of recommendation on what I need to make my Camaro a Ford Eater....
Im Very happy from a 283 to 406...
Lot of cubic inches difference..Gain 114 C.I. ...........

 

I think we bought the same block....for the same price....Its been suggested to me .....why not build a 427?

"I would recommend a set of heads like the World
Products Sportsman II's. They have 215cc intake runners I believe
which
will be enough to feed the 400 and the combustion chambers are
efficient and
will make power. With cams, there is such a huge selection on the
market.
A solid cam with say 280-300 duration and over .500" lift, will suit
your
needs (obviously the lower the number, the more street friendly the cam
is).
With the crankshaft, you can get aftermarket ones; one company I
recommend
is Lunati. If you do go aftermarket, I would recommend getting a 4.25"
crank, so the block ends of being a 427ci instead. Remember, you gotta
have
a somewhat solid bottom end to support all the power you are going to
make"

Just some of the help Ive received...

 

I wouldnt reccomend building a 427 with a factory block go aftermarket for that build a 406 you will be happy with that.

 

Why not? I doing my research here, so give me some facts...or experience you've had with the 427 build, if you could be so kind.
Thanks.

 

Here is What I put together. Give me some insight please:

I was wondering what everyone think about this KB Piston Set for a 400 sbc (SIL KB-127) Check Web Site Below. Scat 9000 Crank 3.75 stroke.
What type of compression will I get with the AFR heads with 74CC. The site recommend 76CC. I dont think that i will have a clearance problem so for or will I. This is a pretty good kit for the price. Open for Opinion and recommendation. Will I still be able to use my A.C.T. 3000 Stall and Pro-Built 700R4 Street/Srip.
CAM:Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 282 intake/288 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 230 intake/236 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .510 in. intake/.520 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 110 degrees
* RPM range: 2,200 to 5,800
See Sig for other info:
Someone please Dyno this for me:
http://www.racepartsstore.com/keith.html

 

Everyone tells me to go with the 5.7 rods. What were you planning on using?

 

Not sure I'd spend the extra money on a new crank. Would probably go with at least a 750 carb as well. 5.7 rods would be a very good idea.

 

Would you take a chance on a crank that had a previous spun bearing on the #6.....by the way 5-7..exact same spun bearing on my 400.....Its been suggested I dont risk using the crank..but I may be looking for more Hp than above. What are your thoughts?
Just my opinion but that is a pretty high stall for a street driven 400...but you are getting a good tranny...hope you have a line on a good driveline . and maybe a spare...

 

I'm not taking any chances with that crank. I doing a lot of searching on the rods and reading about the pro/cons of the 5.7 and 6.0 rods. Nothing concrete that proves the 6.0 is better. I talk to Dana today from Pro-Built and he ensured me that I will not have any problem with that converter with my 400 engine and a stall of 3000 as long as i'm staying in the 230 duration @.050. This guy is so "AWESOME", I can even return my converter for a different stall within one year if I dont like the way it pull. So I will not lose any sleep over that.

 

If you are building this motor for 92/94 octance pump gas, the compression ratio is a little high.

With your supplyed specs:
the cr would be 10.97:1 with a stock deck height block and felpro gasket. If you "0decked" that block the cr would be 11.64:1

A better motor would result if you use a "Odecked" block
and a Flat top KB piston like KB125 . This would checkout to 10.21
with your 74cc heads and have a better quench with the 0 deck height. Total quench clearance is .040 same as gasket. You could shave a few cc's off the heads to clean 'em up
to 72cc's and get 10.42:1. This is about as far as you want to go with pump gas even with alumium heads.

Some people claim to be able to squeeze a bit more with EFI
but they are always fiddling with the A/F ratio, timing and knock retard. Not practical on a carbed street driven car.
Getting the quench right is much more important to overall power. Read about this on the KB pistons site.
Don't worry, put on a decent head like AFR's and a nice cam like you have in mind and It'll fly.

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/

 

What do you think about the rotating assembly from Ebay "Gofaststuff" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1842832696
------------------

 

I had a 350 that had been run low on oil that wiped out #6. Doesn't particularly concern me, as it's either 1) a lube problem, like low oil level or pressure, or 2) a rod sizing problem. You should be addressing both of those issues in the build-up.

 

allright this is kinda off topic here but you guys were talking about compression ratios and im building a 406 right now.. i got the keith black 30 cc dish pistons and im using eagle sir 5.7 rods. I was just wondering how much compression affects horsepower like i am going to have around 9:1 with 64 cc heads if im lucky how much more HP would i have if i had say 12 or 13:1??

 

Well, camarokev400 I just ran your specs through my computer program and heres what I got.

Cyl head cc's = 64
Piston dish cc's = 30
Deck clearance = .025"
Head gasket = .041"

Well the answer is 8.66 to 1

Auggie

 

yeah im not too happy with those specs..... good for a blower though How much does compression affect Horsepower though thats my question say i had this same motor with 11:1 compression verse my 8.68:1 how much more power would i be looking at..? Motors Specs:
400 bored .30 over (406)
comp cams 268 series cam kit (springs, lifters, cam, timing chain)
keith black 30 cc dish pistons (5.7)
Eagle Sir 5.7 rods
Stock Crankshaft
64 cc heads 1.94 intake 1.50 exhaust
Proform roller tip rockers
Hedman Shorty Headers
Edelbrock performer intake
Edelbrock 750 cfm carb
American Thunder 3 inch exhaust
All Accel Ignition
Melling High volume oil pump
Stock Pushrods

 

Well, I ran your eng. again and the only changes I made were 11 to 1 comp., open dyno type headers and I had to retard the cam 4* to kill off some of the cyl. pressure because your Effective Comp. Ratio was over 8 to 1. Heres the results.
HP = 377 & 4750 and 453 lb. ft. & 4000 rpm. Not to bad for a good street eng. You would need though a squish clearance between .035" and .045" to run 11.0 to 1 on 92 oct. on the street.

Auggie