How exactly do you get to the nuts that are on the front crossmember? It seems really hard but I know it can be done. I'm putting a built 355 in my engine bay where a LG4 was before. I have headers to go on it too and I hear that the passenger side will hit the frame rail if you don't change the mounts. They aren't blown yet but they will go soon. This combo blew the life out of the ones in my 79Z28 as well as a new tranny mount so I know its pushing lots more horse.

 

I have a special bent wrench. The proper way to do it is to remove the lower a-arms for access

 

3rd gen motor mounts are fully encased in steel. Unlike the 2nd gen and earlier mounts, they don't "blow out".

Sometimes SLP header clearance is an issue with "sagging" mounts, but I haven't had any problem with my factory-original (from the donor car) mounts.

 

You do not need to remove any front suspension parts in order to swap the mounts. The only special tools required are a good assortment of extensions and either a swivel socket or universal for regular sockets. It just takes a bunch of patience and trial and error to find the best route to put the extensions through the opennings in the crossmember.

 

and dont forget the magnet you will need to retrieve the nuts out of the x-member..

 

If you put a bit of putty inside the socket then jam the nut into it, the nut will remain in the socket while you are lining up the bolt; of course you will put the bolt thru the mount and the frame and then feed the nut up to it very carefully. As I said it just takes some patience and a little finesse. Still a relatively easy job.