ok guys, i have now left the tbi world for the old school 4bbl.... i will miss you all....

but i have one last question... ok... i am no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but i do know that without a regulator my stock pump will supply way too much gas to my carb and will flood it... my question is, what is the stock fuel pressure coming from my pump.... i found the Mallory afpr but it is like almost 90 bucks shipped to me from Jegs, and after paying for the motor i'm pretty tapped out and will be for a little while. I found a Puraltor afpr at Advance and it says that it is adjustable from 1-5 psi.... but it is not recommended for applications with system pressures above 10 psi...
can i use this or not????????

btw my pump has 160 some k miles on it if that makes a difference....

thanks again guys....

btw, the motor is out of a 76 pickup and has been bored .030 over and has a moderate cam (not sure of exact specs yet)... stock intake, heads, and 4bbl... (soon to change)....

 

You HAVE to have the mallory FPR. You must use a 3 port also so you can run a return line and not fry the pump. I just did a swap sort of similar to yours. Your car will not run very well with 10+psi going to the carb. Get the mallory and turn it down to about 5-6 PSI

Once you get that done PM me because your fuel pump isnt going to stay on and you have to hotwire it. Just drop me a PM on here or on AIM at fxsleeperautococ

PS. this post will probably be locked and deleted...guys on the TBI board dont like people doing swaps like this.

 

You mean to tell me that they will lock it just because of the type of swap i'm doing????

that is crap.....

I was just wondering if i could use this regulator since it is so much cheaper and i won't have the money to buy the mallory until like two weeks or so, and frankly i need my car.... anyway, thank you for your reply... i will get back to you
thanks

 

A guy I know is using one of those crappy little regs..works fine BUT no return line. If you do not run a return line youll burn the pump up and it is a bitch to change the pump.

 

Yea, mention carb or TPI on the TBI board and its insta-transfer time.

I think you just got shunned. I thought that shunning people died in the 1700's after people gained some intelligence about the world, but I guess I was wrong.

BTW, that Mallory might be overkill. You arent having to drop the PSI too much going from TBI to carb. I havent looked, but there should be a cheaper alternative out there.

 

there are a bunch of 2 port regs out there for cheap like the holley one BUT you need a 3 port so you dont fry the intank pump so that greatly reduces your choices...the mallory works like a charm tho.

 

well, is there a cheaper 3 port than the mallory cuz i'm a college student working a part time job at walmart and i have a g/f so i'm sure you all understand that funds are very thin.....

i can't find anything but the mallory stuff (mucho expensive) and the 2 and 4 port ones.... no 3 ports except the mallory....

thanks again guys.... i'm glad you all are big enough to help me...

Cody

 

The "4-port" ones are really 3-port - in, out, return - with a 4th "port", which is really only an extra fitting, on the output for a gauge.

 

Use a check valve as a bypass regulator.

Fuel line from pump directly to carb inlet. tee into that line afoot or two b4 carb and put the bypass from the tee to the return line to the tank.

Order a bypass from Enderle or Pete Jackson or Hillborn (more expensive there) with a 5 psi spring and barb fittings or -6 or whatever ur using or cheapest deal on the fittings.

The valve will blow off at 5psi making the carb happy.

 

could someone help me find this check valve???

i've looked and i can't find anything....

that sounds like a good idea to me...

thanks...

 

or...

buy a Holley Red external, its a standard pressure pump.

after I used the crappy no return regulator, hot-wired my pump to stay running(dont know what I did wrong, cuz since then my fuel gauge is pegged full, no matter how I cross wires),
the pump died. It also had about 160k on it.


so, I mounted the Holley in the engine bay, attaced it to the fuel supply line, and it works like a charm. It pulls fuel through the dead in tank pump with no problems at all.

I wish I had just done this in the first place.

the pump runs about 75$$

 

that sounds like another excellent idea...

thanks guys for all your help

 

so you think if i just wire up this pump and unhook the fuse to the old pump then all will be well???

it will pull gas through the in tank pump ok???

i'm just worried that I'll spend the money on it and then it won't pull gas through the old pump... I really don't wanna have to drop that tank...

just checking cuz i get paid tomorrow and i'll be purchasing something and finishing up the project...

so everyone vote, which is best

regulator Mallory

Pump Holley Red....

thanks guys for all your help

 

I have heard others on this board say a electric pump like the Holley would not pull fuel through the pump.

I did this as a last ditch effort after the in-tank died, becuz I did not want to yank the tank.

I have no probems whatsoever with it.

You are supposed to mount it as close to the tank as possible, but I did this last winter, at night, with no garage and snow on the ground.

I mounted it on the drivers fenderwell. Hooked up the feed line, and it fired right up. You will need to drill 2 small holes through the inner fender, in the wheel well to mount it. its not visible.

I dont know how to wire it to turn on with the ignition, so I ran a hot wire from the battery, through the brake pedal grommet, under the kick panel.
I then ran this wire to a switch.
I mounted the switch as follows:
there is a pannel directly to the left of the steering wheel, it is held on by 2 screws. it has a cutout that looks like it would just pop out on it, sorta an outline of a rectangle on it
I drilled a hole through the rectange outline and mounted the switch there.
thats as good as I can explain it. sorry.
anyway, from the other side of the switch I ran it back under the kick pannel, through the grommet, and to the switch.

the pump is a little bit noisy, and it can be heard over my headers that dump into a 3 inch glasspack that exits directly under the passengers seat. So the exaust is pretty loud.
the pump noise doesent bother me at all though, its almost re-assuring.

be sure you plug up the return line though!! I put a 3/8 hose, connected with a hose clamp on the steel line. I then put a bolt down the hose and tigtened it with a clamp.
I forgot to do that, and the first time I filled the tank up full, it was literally pouring out of the line, and I almost had a fire, it was shooting all over the headers...very bad.

so yeah, you should be ok with just removing the fuse.
I wish I did this instead of wiring up the pump and avoiding all the hassle, like I said before.
and hey, if it doesent work, just return the thing, no big deal.

 

thanks Joshua...

i'm picking up the pump this evening and will be finishing up the project probably this weekend or the first of the week

thanks for all your help

Cody

 

can I take it that THIS is teh Mallory afpr in question?

ALso talked about in V6~v* sticky #12

$61.99 shipped seems to be the best price out there too.

 

That would be The One....

 

Then question: What is the difference between a fpr w/a return line/bypass and a 2port w/no return, but using port #2 as a return??? I really don't know.

 

hey tbi305camaro how do you hotwire your fuel pump i did the same thing now i too need to do this

 

In order to develop pressure, there has to be a restriction. If you use the 2nd outlet port as a return, there won't be sufficient restriction to produce pressure to the carb (unless your pump puts out a whole bunch of volume).

A non-return regulator simply restricts the inlet to keep outlet pressure from exceeding the set point. A return style regulator makes the pressure at the outlet by restricting the return flow (which means the outlet has to have its own restriction, which is the carb inlet).

 

Gents, I'm new to the camaro world...I am replacing a burnt 305 cfi with a 350 4bbl. My main problem is I dont know which line is my feed line theat needs to run to my fpr, which one is the return that I need to hook to one of the out ports on the fpr, and what the deal is with the vapor canister? Which side is the vapor line on? How do I hook up the vapor can? Do I need to or can I skip any of these things? Please help.

 

Feed line is the larger one, return is the smaller one.

All you should need to hook up to the vapor canister is vacuum from the carb. I'm not at all familar with the details of a CFI canister system, though, so take that with a grain of salt.

 

Is the feed line the one on the drivers side or the pass. side? One reference tells me one thing while the other of course says something different. The vapor can, it has a line running out of it with the old pcv still attached along with anoth hose about 3/8. Is that other hose the one that goes to the vapor line from the tank? Thanks for any help and sorry so many questions.

 

Ammoblows,

Just finished the swap your doing. If your car is registered in GA you will need to hook up everything for One(1) more year. The canister from any LG4 will be easy to hook up. My son and I have had to deal with everything you are doing CFI to Carb. PM any specifics we can help a lot.

Sincerely
Kurt & Derek