How much am I looking to spend on building a 350 if I do all the work that I possibly could on my own? I'm looking for a 400-450 horsepower range. Or would it just be cheaper to buy a crate engine that is in the same power range?

 

Buy a 350 crate motor and put 300hp shot of nitrous on it.

You might want to be more specific about exactly what you want. Rpm ranges, mostly street or track, etc.... The reason I say this is because I asked this question a while back and got this same response. Everyone told me to go out and do some research then come back and ask the specific questions. There are alot of people out there who have done exactly what you want to do, you just have to find them.

Now then, the easiest way would be to go out and buy 400 somthing horse crate motor with a carb. Another way would be to buy a block and put the parts together to make that much power, I think that jegs or summit sells a 430hp kit that comes with heads, a cam and the other neccesities. If you want to go F.I. it is very possible but you will most likely have to do quite a bit of tuning or go with an aftermarket intake to make it work. I am by no means an expert, but I am currently looking into swapping out my 700r4 305 for a T-56 and a 350-400 horse TPI or superram 350, and this is what I have run into.

Please if anything I have said is wrong, please correct me and show him, and myself the right way because my questions are the same as his.

 

it's hard to do anything for less the 400 or 500 in parts and there is no maximum

 

Ain't that the truth!

 

I'd like to operate @ no more than 6500 rpm. Would be going carbed setup and am looking for more of a weekend warrior type car or a car that would be used to go short distances. I mean I want something that'd be as good to take to the track as it would be to cruise.

 

i did what you want to do. with total rebuild of an old 350, 600 carb, simple street/strip cam, rebuilt heads..... cost at the end probably $1200-$1500.

 

this cost will get you slightly over 300hp.

 

SDPC modified vortec heads: 639.00
Comp Cams XE274 Cam kit: 189.95
Performer RPM Air Gap for
vortec cylinder heads: 199.99
Holley 650 Double Pumper,
Manual Choke: 321.95
Holley Mechanical
Street Pump: 52.95
Harland Sharp 3/8" Stud
Roller Rockers, non
self alligning: 192.95
Grand Total: $1596.79

Keep in mind this doesnt include machining of the block, gaskets or fasteners. Also, I cant remember if the SDPC modified vortecs are machined for guideplates or not, so if they arent machined for guideplates you will need to get a different roller rocker like a Crane or Comp, but beware they are usually close to $300. There are several people putting down 12's at nice mph's with this combo, so its pushing 400 horsepower.

Seth

 

Thanks for breaking that all down for me. As for the bottom end, how much am I looking to spend on that? To get a block, get it machined and get pistons, rods, etc.

 

You can get a performance oriented short block from wheeler motors sports for right at 1000 bucks, then just bolt all your stuff on top. If you go the machine shop route, expect to pay about 100 for a core block to start with. From there it gets as expensive or as cheap as you wanna go. I really dont know machine shop prices that well, prefer shortblocks and crate long blocks.

Seth

 

Thanks, I was checking out that Wheeler Motor Sports, they don't seem to have a lot of info on their website yet, but they have given me a new possibility for a different route to go. Is there any other similar sites that sells the blocks like they do? Oh, and what exactly is the difference between a long block and a short block?

 

The BEST thing, and I do mean the BEST thing you can do is hang out at the local speed shop / dragstrip / cruise spot and ask around about places in your area that do machine work on engines. TRUST ME...any people who had BAD experiences will tell ya to stay away from so and so, and the ones' who had GOOD experiences will tell you too...then after you keep hearing the same names pop up, give 'em a call.

Tell them what you have , what you're looking to do, and how much you have to spend....

Most good machine shops will work with you and tell you what you need and don't need, and most times, buying parts through them is cheaper than even online.

If you want to learn to assemble the short block, buy every book David Vizard wrote on the Small Block Chevy ( How to Rebuild your SBC is a classic ) get a GM Service manual..this is a "helms" manual...not a cheap Haynes or Chilton...this will give alot of info, specs, pics and steps for taking apart and putting together.


My recommendation? If it's your FIRST ENGINE, I'd go on the "mild" side....a budget 350 can easily make 320-350HP without spending a TON on parts. That way, once you've got it together and running well, you can always go back and add a better set of heads, cam , intake etc.



HTH

 

If you are buying a block and having it machined you might as well get a 383 kit i just bought mine for 679 free shipping thats rods rod bolts pistons crank bearings and rings everything is tested to at least 500 hp. cant beat it for the power over a 350. Email me for more specifics on where to get it.

 

Do you remember how much it cost you got get all the machine shop work done on the block? That's the biggest question I have so far, how much am I going to be spending at the machine shop.

 

I just found this:

http://www.larrysperformance.com

Ok, this is what I'm wondering now. For $845, I can get the block, and everything I need for the bottom end, plus all the gaskets, with forged pistons. But that is with a 2 bolt-main. For an extra $100 I can get a 4 bolt-main. Would the 2 bolt-main be able to stand up to an engine making 400-450 horsepower?

 

I've got Vortec Protopline heads and a good 2 bolt 355. That 274 cam is listed as a chrysler 4x4 cam on summit....am i looking at the wrong part? I'm going to use the RPM performer vortec intake and a 650 holley double pumper....

I'm confident in my top end that im building, I'm pretty much going to built it with those parts as you listed above. I'm wondering about my bottom end....my buddy keeps telling me that the bottom end doesn't really matter, that more money in the bottom end only allows higher reving and durability and that for a budget build all my power is going to come from my heads.....should i have no probably hitting low 13's with that combo even if i use a "basic" bottom end (stock cast chevy crank that's been machined as needed, LT1 rods, flattop high compression pistons...im going to try and get the most CR i can to get HP)

my buddy assures me im gonna get 380HP easy at the flywheel....i think i just need to hear it from more ppl

i have this terrible feeling that the engine is going to make power, but not what im looking for (Which is 325-350 at the wheels)

 

Well, there is something to be said for some good junkyard parts. There are parts that will get you into the 450hp range... you just have to know what to look for and have lots of patience. Most people underrate the stock GM parts that came on the '70s and 80s motors, but with some know-how, they can be great performers for very cheap. A good example are the carbs. Most boneyards will sell you a decent 4bbl carb for around $50, maybe less, and it could be ready to drop on as-is, or may need to be rebuilt, but is much cheaper than a new Holley @ $400. Also, some of the GM aluminum intake manifolds that came on the '70s 350s were easily good enough to make 450hp, and probably won't cost you more than $15-30. There are lots of pretty healthy cams in these boneyard motors too. Example (71 350ci SB pn-3965754): int-0.495"/exh-0.510".... Thats a pretty healthy hydraulic cam for a stock chevy small block, huh?

Basically, i would just recommend checking the local boneyards before spending big bucks on the aftermarket parts... they may have exactly what you need, like a good 4bbl and/or intake for far less money and very little (if any) performance loss.

 

The last place you wanna skimp money on is the short block. Heads and cams sounds nice, and are good for wow factor, But you want as strong as a shortblock as you can afford. Think of it almost like two projects. The shortblock and cam as one half, and the heads, vavle train, intake, and carb as the other half.

Your going to spend about equal parts on both of em. If you've never put a motor together. the best way to do it is talk to a good local machine shop. 99% of the time you'll get a better motor, with more good stuff in it, and more power, than a crate motor.

You can do a motor on a budget, but don't do it on the cheap. something will find a way to escape from it.

My suggestion is walk and talk to the locals, like the other fella's said.. they'll tell ya who's reputable and who's not. most of the time a good engine shop will have motors around to sell you as the building point of the whole shabang... and as a rule, it's cheaper for you to get a motor through them than to scrounge around and pick em up.

If you want a solid short block, and 400-450hp, doing the final assembly yourself (installing the heads, lifters, pushrods, intake ie the top half of the motor.) it should run in the 2500-3000dollar range.

I've got a motor up to those type of specs. if you want i'll give you a run down on it.. just PM me

 

Ok, and to get another point of view on this, how long does it usually take someone to put together a complete engine, if they are experienced?

 

a good machine shop can do literally all the work in an afternoon.


but someone good assembling it, that doesn't do it every day has to take much much more time... i'd say give it a weekend. save the beer till the end.

 

I agree on most everything posted.....

Also, alot of the machine shops will have "hold over" which is parts left by customers who didn't like the bill....so they sit...

I picked up a complete 400 2 bolt a few years ago like this.

I also recommend doing the bottom end yourself too. Either buy some decent mic's or use plasti-gauge. Triple check all clearances.
It's straight forward...just tedious to do it RIGHT the first time.

All you need is a engine stand, some basic tools, and a good torque wrench.

It really does feel good when that engine fires the first time...


HTH

 

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