iroczman380

Hey guys Im trying to become a regular up in here but i dunno. Well I want your guys opinions!!! This is my set up, some parts have been bought others not quite. here goes, Keep in mind I am trying to run mid 12 second 1/4 miles and lower.

Wheeler Motorsports 355ci Short Block, Forged pistons, Forged Crank Bad *** short block------$1200

(www.wheelermotorsports.com)

ZZ4 Heads(1.94,1.500)-----$700 (will probably port these later)

Lt4 Hot Cam(525.525@218 duration w/112 ls.)-----$150 (Ebay)

Crane Gold 1.6 Roller Rockers---- $250

Vigalante 2800 Stall converter-------$300

700r4 Stage 2 shift kit-------$99

TPI Ported Base------300 (Ebay)

Ported Plenum------Free

52mm Throttle Body------$230

Edelbrock TES-------$400 (already have)

Well all of this stuff together is just around 3 g's or so and this all together would smoke the F***K out of a crate zz4!!!

and the crazy thing is a zz4 is $3500!!



This is My Setup, I saw another guy do the EXACT SAME THING, the only difference being he ran AFR 190's. Iam following his mod page to a T. I forgot to add he already had Headers, good flowing exhaust etc.. (I already have). Anyways the point being He took a zz4 short block and rebuilt it with forged pistons. He then added all those mods. He ran at best 11.83@114.03 mph on DRAG RADIALS!!!!No power adder or nothin. THAT IS F*CKIN FAST!!! I want to know what you guys think!! He has a video, Ill post it later. I want to know what I will probably run since I am running the zz4 aluminum heads instead of the afr's. I would buy the afrs but they are so F****N expensive!!! Well this is what I plan on doing, is this a good plan??? what do you guys think. lets get a good discussion goin here. How much will the zz4 heads hurt me any suggestions??? LET ME KNOW!!!!

wingnut

Sounds more like a mid 13 second setup to me. Those heads, with 1.94"/1.5" valves, will be a bit restrictive for your goal of mid 12's. That cam looks to have decent lift, but 218 duration (@ .050") is not very agressive. Sounds like a good combo that will make great low-mid RPM power (maybe 375 HP?) and have a a decent idle/vacuum. But if your heart is set on 12's, you might want to consider different heads and cam. On a side note, a forged rotating assembly is a bit overkill for the RPM range you will be running in.

91wtROH17's

Not trying to argue at all, but he probably added forged stuff so that he could run the juice. I would say he run's 12.8 on that motor and 11.8 on the juice!! I could be wrong.

RB83L69

Well let's look at it rationally here, based on what the parts actually are....

ZZ4 heads = Aluminum TPI heads. Same casting, same everything.

Who knows what a "ported" base off of eBay might consist of. Basically it makes little or no difference if you stick with the stock runners.

Same for the throttle body - nothing to be gained there, with any of the rest of the system's restrictions still in place.

People usually slow down when they slide that cam under a stock TPI. It's been done a time or 2 already; you're not the first person that's got the idea to use it. Since that cam raises the engine's peak volumetric efficiency RPM considerably above where it needs to be for stock TPI runner setups, it's not a real good choice to use those 2 things together.

Instinct tells me therefore that the setup you are proposing will go somewhat slower than a stock Vette TPI with Edelbrock headers and a mild converter would go. So I'd expect high 13s to low 14s, at best, with good hand dyno tuning as opposed to an off-the-shelf or even an over-the-phone type of purchased chip (not mentioned in your list - $$$$ for the dyno time).

ZZ4 HP = 345

L98 HP = 240 (same short block, heads); give it 25 HP for the headsers, an extra 10 just for generosity, you're up to 275 HP

Explain how you're going to make a ZZ4 go faster by turning it into a L98.

iroczman380

Ok Guys, Look at it this way, a zz4 crate makes 355 horses and 405 ft lbs RIGHT??? Ok Now if you take that motor and add the lt4 hot cam with 1.6 roller rockers, you now have 395 hp with 425 ft lbs. THIS IS PROOVEN. Salee chevy and other sites sell this upgrade. Anyways, I would just like to say I **** YOU NOT Check his site out!!!! here it is NO NITROUS USED EITHER.

(http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=201)

He has all of his mods on there and everything even a video. He achieved his goals with this setup only with the afr190's instead.

What I pan to do is duplicate it only buy a wheeler forged block instead of the cast gm block. THAT ALONE WILL ADD HORSEPOWER. Forged is the best!! Well this is just my opinion,

IF THIS IS A BAD SETUP THEN WHAT THE HALE IS???

How do i run low 12's but maintain a good street car, for normal use on the everyday roads. If this isnt a way to do it then what is.

And I want a setup that is using a 350 or 355.

11's are possible with a 350 youve just got to know your ****.

What cam works well with TPI??? I am porting out my tpi so what cam would you all suggest. higher or lower lift?? I wouldnt think lower but lets here what you guys would do. WHAT HEADS??

CARB OR TPI. miniram??? let me know

Who is running low 12's with a 350 no nos. WHAT HAVE YOU DONE, I want AN ENTIRE MOD SHEET!!!! I know the heads on this setup would be a weak link but what heads are good besides afr190's. EDELBROCK< TRICK FLOW??? WHAT HEADS ARE GOOD FOR 12's??? SOmebody talk to me here!!! thanks

91wtROH17's

Did you see that the LTR TPI was his (old) setup. He is now acheiving his 11.8's with a HSR. He does have a nice setup though. Just so you know, the advertized HP #'s on the ZZ4 are with carb on it, the TPI suck's alot of power out of that setup!!

AJ_92RS

May I ask your logic here?

Those park bench wings and graphic stickers add 20+ HP, right?

NOTHING about a block will add HP, except making the holes bigger. Nothing about pistons will add HP, except increasing compression with either flat or dome top. Nothing about a crank will add HP, except increasing the stroke.

The material they're made of doesn't add HP.

iroczman380

Ok tpi sucks power well he was running 12.2' and 12.3's before the holley stealth ram. SO What are you going to say now?? Its just not possible, it cant happen, YES IT IS. ANd I want to know WHAT IS THE BEST HEADS AND CAM t0 hit low 12's and high 11's??

The tpi i know it is limited but lets just say we have a good flowing inake setup card, or miniram whatever, WHAT HEADS AND CAM will hit 12's???

Also, IS it worth buying a new short block with forged everything for 1200??

Right now I have an l98 stock with edelbrock tes and open exhaust with flowmasters. Should I save the 1200 and get good heads like the afr's or edelbrocks??

Maybe I can hit 12's with the motor I have now any ideas?? let me know

RB83L69

We're all aware of what the HOT cam does in a ZZ4, WITH A CARB. That doesn't apply to TPI. And we're all aware (well, speakign for myself anyway) that you can run 11s with a properly set up 350.

Nothing about changing from cast pistons to forged pistons will add noticeable HP. If the ones in this rebuilt short block happen to be a little lighter than stock, or the rings happen to seal a little bit better, it might be good for a HP or 2; that's about it. Put that idea out of your head. Power does not come from the short block. It comes from FLOW. All that improving the short block does, is to allow it to survive at higher RPM; and since RPM is how you use flow, then once you attain flow, you might need to step up the components in the bottom end.

Furthermore, as long as you have a N/A TPI on a motor, it will protect you from needing a forged bottom end. It isn't necessary, because the TPI will prevent the motor from producing meaningful power at a sufficiently high RPM to overstress the short block (i.e., sure you can floor it and hold it in first; but the car will go faster if you shift earlier).

The main thing about your plan that's a problem, is the TPI. It's real hard to get much past 325 HP with a TPI, no matter what else (besides blowers or nitrous) you do with it. Lose that; go with a MiniRam or ProRam or Stealth Ram (lot of ramming goin on these days....) and it becomes a whole different matter. If that's a possibility in your locale, give it serious thought. It's not like you have to use a carb to get those high HP numbers, although that's by far the easiest and cheapest way.

The ZZ4 HP is rated with a carb. The 40 HP from the HOT cam were produced with larger-tube headers than TES. You can't compare those numbers or that build directly to a TPI motor, because the intake tract for those other ratings is very different. No intake restriction. No "tuning" that favors one specific RPM at the expense of others. No 22" long 1¼" diameter tubing with a 180° bend in it. Just pure flow. Put a restriction on it, the HP goes down. It's reality. You will not smoke anything out of a ZZ4 by duplicating it and then putting a TPI (restriction) on it.

That may not be what you wanted to hear, since it looks like you were hoping for everybody to tell you what a great idea it is; and some will no doubt come back and do that. But in the long run, it doesn't matter what anybody "says", it's all drivel. Build it, post some dyno numbers and/or track times, and then we can all see whether it was a well-designed motor.

iroczman380

It might Not add serious power but It will raise compression and the valves will respond better to the forged flat tops. Also it keeps you safe, and if your building a 11-12 second street machine you cant go wrong with forged. UNLESS you like replacing pistons and piston rings?? well maybe you do but that aint my thing.

Steve89GTA

Check this out...

Would this be a better alternative to the zz4 with a tpi on it?

hmmm..

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...8/index12.html

91wtROH17's

I am using the LTR setup, I'm not saying I don't like it and i'm not saying you can't hit 12's wt it. I am telling you his 11.8 was acheived with a HSR. You ask what I am going to say now, well how about he is running 4-5 tenth's faster with the HSR. Anyway, I am by far an expert, I am just pointing out what I saw on the web page you gave us!!

AJ_92RS

That's all true, but that's not what you said the first time.

And yes, replacing pistons and rings are my thing.

I replace them with better pieces. Hypereutectic or forged pistons, and chromemoly faced rings.

level

you want 12's? loose the stock long tube runner crap get a stealth ram or a superram lt1 etc...

SLP_GTA

iTrader: (1)

Please tell me where you can buy one for 300.00

86IROCNJ

Try doing a search on this site. Especially for this man: http://icon.hustonstreetracing.com/trax.htm He knows his crap as well as many others on this site. If you can deal with a little sarcasm from some of them, they can really help you out! Traxion is doing what you want on his stock short block. So, the page a i gave you has the answers to the questions which you have been slinging all over this thread. good luck to you And yes, please tell us where you can get a Vig for $300. So i can return my $700 one for it! lol

jmiller

I have 2 TPI cars, a 67' Cam and a 87' IROC. My 67' has a stock ZZ4 with TPIS base and 52MM TB, and level 5 prom, stock tubes and plenum port matched. It is a MAF system. The car ran 13.59 at 101 mph with street tires. I just built and installed in my IROC a 383 with AFR 190's, a TPIS ZZ9 cam, TPIS base and 52MM TB, and level 5 prom, and TPIS large tubes. Before I built this engine, I went through the same thing you are. I eye-balled the LT4 hot cam too. However, as mentioned by another on this thread the LT4 hot cam was designed for higher rpms than TPI will allow. I will be running my IROC at the drags in Sept. I want to get at least 6000 miles on the motor. I am not sure how much horsepower I lost putting TPI on the ZZ4, but based on the times I ran, and compared to several articles in Chevy Hi Performance mag, I can't be losing much. There was an article about a 70 Cam with a ZZ4 ported heads and cam change running a carb on street tires turned 13.4 et.

RB83L69

Just FYI...

Traxion is running a MiniRam, not TPI; and a blower. He ditched the stock intake a long time ago. And yes, his car is definitely fast.

86IROCNJ

So he has stepped up to a supercharger huh?! Pretty sick. Can't wait to see what happens. Anyway, while doing his search on Traxion he should come up with his old set up which was still in the 12s with the ltr set up. That would meet his goals which he has mentioned in this thread. Sorry for any confusion, not to compare apples to oranges or anything! later

JHens

Block materials can add power, aftermarket blocks with thicker cylinder walls deflect less and rings seal better, which in turn create less blowby and make more power. Also iron and aluminum heads can make a difference in power, although it is widely debated and most of the time negligable at best (for two identical heads, one aluminum, one iron.)

AJ_92RS

No they can't unless there is some significant difference in weight, required clearance, etc. Light weight forged pistons are an example.
That's true, but we weren't talking about how much material. We're talking about the type of material.
That's all fine and well, but iroczman and I weren't talking about cylinder heads. We were talking about blocks.

The way iroczman referred to the block material was as if there were no other changes to the engine besides what the block was made of.

The forged block will stand up to a lot more abuse, but it won't make more HP.

A word of advice from a very knowledgable man....

StreetRoc85 350

dont forget the computer stuff too.... youll need a chip and some injectors at the least....

scottland

Not to flame, but people, try to know what your talking about before you open your big mouths,

as for the topic of this discusion.

a ZZ4 with a Hot cam and 1.6 roller rockers will make very good power, with a 700ish cfm carb and a nice dual-plane intake manifold. You'll be looking at about what Sallee claims, 390 at the flywheel.

Shorty headers and TPI will choke that down to about 320 at the flywheel.( i'm estimating)

point is.

A. AFR heads make an unimaginable difference compared to ZZ4 heads, you can't EVEN compare the two, so don't try.

B. He has long tubes, you don't.

C. Holly Stealth Ram, makes a giant difference over the TPI system. ( i don't know why you don't just run a carb.) Look at his dyno numbers, notice where his horsepower peaks, 6500rpm. Even with whatever kind of TPI you get, it won't make power up that high, you'll need an aftermarket, or a different kind of induction system

D. He also has a 10.34 to 1 compression which is a lot more than the 9.6to 1 i believe the ZZ4 has.

E. That guy if you look on his website seems to know how to custom tune his ECM which im sure has lead to a lot more power.

and finally

F. look at all the suspension mods he has done,

SFC, LCA's, Panhard bar, Torque Arm, Springs, shocks, and struts, oh and wait drag radials.

without all that, he would only run a mid 12 at best.

so what i am getting at is, with the parts you listed you are looking at mid 13's.

with a carb, you could maybe break the 12's.

as for the other comments

block materials will NEVER add power, other than one or two horsepower here and there. An aluminum block will make your car weigh less which can make it FASTER but not more powerful.

Aftermarket blocks do have thick cylinder walls, but they are mainly there for the purpose of overboring. And they can help the motor run better after many many miles, but a fresh built motor will not make more power with just a aftermarket block. 5 years later the aftermarket block might be making a little more power though.

And aluminum cylinder heads don't really help other than weight.

There are 2 advantages to alu. clyinder heads vs cast iron.

A. They shed heat faster, so you can run higher compression without detonation on the same octane gas,

B. They weigh less, once again making your car lighter, but not more powerful.

88IROC350TPI

Heres the easiest and cheapest PROVEN combo that I know to go 12's.

-350, try to get about 10:1 compression
-750cfm CARB
-Comp Cams XE274
-Edelbrock RPM Intake
-Vortec heads, 1.5 rockers, upgrade springs to match cam(like you should with ANY heads)
-3.73 geared rear, 3000RPM stall (can go a lil' higher if you want), 26" tall tires (slicks or drag radials)
-1 5/8" headers would work, 1 3/4" would likely be better.

Why waste all kinds of money on AFR's and fuel injection when you can fulfill your goals for much cheaper. I've seen, with my own eyes, cars run low 12's with this combo.

level

tpi won't choke it to bad if you use an after market one lt1/superram/stealthram etc..

to answer the other question as to why we don't use carb sure it's cheaper off the bat but when you're getting 10mpg with your holley 750cfm carb it adds up after a while..

tpi can get around 20ish mpg on a built engine so in the long run it's actually cheaper if you drive your car everyday.

RB83L69

Those arent TPI. They're something else. FI, yes; TPI, no.

From that point of view, what you said is equivalent to "TPI won't choke the motor, if you don't put one on there, but rather use something else instead".

88IROC350TPI

As with fuel injection, its all in the tuning. If tuned properly you'll get the same milage with a carb (or just about)

Steve89GTA

The biggest advantage is the driveability. A fuel injection system can compensate for atmospheric conditions in real time. With a carb, you'll need to figure out the best case scenerio to handle all conditions you'll be expecting. Then one day it's really humid and you wonder why you're getting smoked by dsm's and gsr's.

TPI or any somewhat 'smart' induction is the way to go - just my opinion though.

AJ_92RS

And you'll really get smoked by xqz's, pqa's, xys's, and icu's. Those things LOVE humidity. Their FI system has an nuculear anti-humidificationazor that removes all the condomsational molocules from the air and turns them into CO2 cooling processing agents that re-fornicate.

The sticker alone costs $400!!!

Momar

I was right with you till you started talking about pre marital sex. Now I am lost.

LOL

jmiller

I think a ZZ4 is an excellent motor for TPI. As I said before, my ZZ4 is completely stock with TPI/MAF system. I have 3.36 posi, 700R4 trans running 275/50-15 rear tires (street tires). I ran the car with the mufflers in place (not uncorked). My 67' turned a 13.59 at 101 mph. I don't think it is a bit unreasonable to say, with slicks and uncorked my car would run in the twelves! There are improvements you can make, but it makes a great starting point.

RB83L69

Like run it like it came with a carb, and pick up the other half-second or more that you give up with TPI.

jmiller

NO, what I meant was heads, cam, etc. The last thing I would want to do is put a carb back on it. My original 327 had a carb on it , with the 700R4 I got 11-14 mpg. I now get 18 city 23 hiway!!! It's a daily driver, not a race car. I don't believe I would pick up much at all with a carb, except headaches (fouled plugs, pre-detenation, too rich-too lean, etc) and larger gas bills. In Calif. we pay over $2.00 a gallon for 91 octane. I figure I am saving at least $800.00 a year in fuel consumption. In less than 3 years the TPI is paid for by fuel savings. And I will have far less damage done to my engine. Try getting 235,000 miles out of a motor with a carb. That's how many miles my L98 had on it when I pulled it out of my IROC, and it was still running!!!

AJ_92RS

I have an '83 C10 with ~240K miles on the original 305. It ain't fuel injected. It's a Q-Jet and not a CCC.

RB83L69

I have a 78 El Camino with a 305, with 345,000 miles on it, intake has never been off. I also have a 74 Caprice convertible with a 454, with about 280,000 on it.

It's always amusing to see people who have only gotten involved with cars within the last 20 years or so, who seem to think that car history began the day FI was invented. Like that thread that somebody has going about who has a non-computer carbed daily driver..... well, that was what ALL cars were, for the better part of a century; but nowadays some people seem to think that it's weird or impossible or something, or maybe that people stayed home on cold days, or maybe all cars got 6 miles to the gallon of gas, or every single car owner got out and dinked with their carb every day before they could drive it, I don't really know. It's a hoot though.

jmiller

I'm 56 years old and have 40 years experience. I drag raced cars from 1968-1973. I have restored/modified at least 25 cars in my life time. I installed a 454 LS6 in my 75' Jeep in 1981, I had to make my own motor mounts and adapters to accomplish it!
I am glad some of you have gotten a lot of miles out of your carburated motors, however, I was never that lucky. But my engines were not 150HP 305's with NO compression.
Look, let's stop arguing about carbs verse TPI, let's look at the reality. It has taken over 20 years for GM to come up with a motor that is comparable in performance and HP to the motors of the 60's. And that was accomplished only by Electronic fuel injection!! End of STORY!!

RB83L69

The reality is, you take a flat-top 350 short block, put a set off 113 heads on it, a 208° cam in it, a dual-plane intake and a Holley 750, and you come up with 345 HP. The parts to build this combination can be purchased over the counter today at your local GM dealer. It is called a ZZ4.

You take the same short block and the same heads; put a EFI-friendly cam in it; put TPI on it; and install it in a 91 Vette. Granted, this is with exhaust manifolds; but you come up with 250 HP. This is called a L98.

Give the L98 a good set of headers, a cam that's maybe on the edge of tolerance for such things, let's say you pick up 50 HP. Pretty optimistic, but not impossible. You're still 45 HP shy of what the same heads will do with a carb on them! and of course, you can also put a better cam and a bigger intake on that carb combo, and add 50 HP to it that way, and continue to stay nearly 100 HP ahead of the TPI system's output.

That's also the reality. But I suspect that it's not "the end of the story", since somebody always comes up with more apologies for TPI's lack of competitiveness. Note I said "TPI", not "EFI" in general. Then it took GM only 8 years (why so long I don't understand) to come up with a much simpler and more sensible EFI system that blows the doors off of TPI, and gets better gas mileage to boot.

And of course, for those who live in California as I did until quite recently, a carb is really not an option. The laws there won't allow a car that came with FI to be licensed with a carb on it, period; and even most of the actual performance EFI systems that are available, won't meet the requirements of that state. AFAIK the only one that will is the SuperRam, and I sure wouldn't put one of those on my own car (though it does seem to deliver good performance), just because of the hassle factor. Other people might be willing to deal with it though. A motor with that on it stands a much better chance of competing with an otherwise identical carbed motor. Some one of the short-runner EFI systems such as a MiniRam, or a big single-plane one liek a ProRam, would do even better; but those won't pass CA inspection.

level

tpi stands for tuned port injection you tell me how a superram isn't tuned port injection all you're changing are the runners and the plenum.
it's still injecting fuel the same way.

Momar

Yes, but a super ram is "tuned" to make power higher in the rpms than what is normally called a tpi. A super ram has larger short runners which is what gives it the higher rpm capability. With a normal TPI the long small runners "tune" it to be more torque down low but lack hp. This gives a feeling of being fast on the street but in actuallity it isnt all that fast.

Ben

scottland

Um.... i think it is really unereasonable

running slicks and straight pipes is not going to take .6sec off your et.

jmiller

You might be right, but my 60' time was horrible!!! Absolutely no traction, I had to stomp on it from a DEAD IDLE, or ease into it (not WOT). I lost an easy .4 -.6 secs. and still managed mid 13's.

Momar

What was your 60 ft time?

Ben

RaGe

this goes out to irocz80man:

check this out:

(complete lt1 intake already setup for gen 1 smallbock and hei distributor)

https://www.thirdgen.org/classifieds...tgo?adid=24934


bolt this on and keep the rest of your factory system in tact.

with a good tuning you'll get the numbers out of your EFI system with the LT1 intake. at a reasonable price at that!

jmiller

I made 5 passes trying something a little different with each pass. Best 60' time was 2.2, worst was 2.4. My 1/4 ets: worst 13.85 best 13.59. MPH was always 100-101. RPM's at end of track was 4800 in 3rd gear, I let the trans shift itself on all passes, Govenor shifts at 5200. I was very happy though. The car is not setup for drag racing. I have Hotchkis turing suspension and bilstein shocks, not drag race friendly. And of coarse a 700R4. But the real clincher is getting 22 mpg driving to the race track!!!! Not very many 67' Cams around that can do that! I know the more modern EFI systems are better than TPI, but I have been really happy with both my TPI cars.
john

88IROC350TPI

Back a few years ago when I had a stock L98 with a cat-back I went 14.5 @ 93mph consistantly. It ran perfectly fine I think it was a healthy motor and properly functioning TPI system. I converted to a RPM intake and a 750 Holley and 1 week later went consistantly 14.2 @ 97mph. Same weather, same track, same amount of traction. From this I say you are completely right the TPI will choke off anything above 305 cubic inches.

TRAXION

Wow - me and Mike in the same thread. WoooWOOOOO!

First thing I want to say is that I am not running a blower. I started collecting parts to run a blower but I NEVER has a blower on my car. FWIW - I just sold all my blower parts and will be staying NA for quite some time. I'm currently in the middle of another cam install along with going back to my stock serpentine setup with the mechanical waterpump and the stock Power Steering. Should be cool!

Both Mike and I have a lot of time/money into our cars. It's not as easy as buying a shortblock, throwing an LT4 cam in there and rolling down the street. Things to think about:

Airbox, TB, and Intake that can flow enough air.
Real heads.
3000+ stall converter.
Gears (3.73s).
Full Exhaust (Mike has shorty SLP 1-3/4" headers - I have LTs).
Good Valvetrain (Roller Rockers, Titanium Retainers, etc.)
30lb Injectors with an intank pump like the Walbro 255ltr/hr
Tuning (good luck with that one).
Suspension to allow you to hook up.

To illustrate 3 of the most forgotten things here ... .. let's say you forget about the converter, the tuning, and the suspension. What happens? Well, If you are running 11.8's on a 1.6 short time .... you are now running 12.8-13.2's. So, even if you remember to build the engine halfway decent you'll still have a car that probably runs 13's most of the time because you can't launch it and it isn't tuned. The diffrence between a 1.6 short time and a 2.1 short time is 0.75 seconds in the 1/4 mile.

The whole story here is a setup that is matched. You want all the components working together instead of against each other.

Tim

RB83L69

Sorry I misquoted your setup Trax.... I'm just an idiot, I thought you had built that

jmiller

That is exactly right, and I choose to set my car suspension up for cornering/handling, not drag racing. And I choose a 700R4 for ease, iinstead of a 5/6 speed manual trans. I have done a lot of tuning, but that is more simplified with a MAF system. TPIS base manifold 52MM TB, etc. to increase air flow and bump up the fuel pressure. At WOT the nox sensor is retarding the timing 7 degrees, but I can't think of anything to help me there, have to run unleaded fuel to save the O2 sensor.
john miller

Berlinetta

the tpi intake chokes off anything bigger than 305ci b/c it was only made to work with a 305... i believe

Also, the material of the rotating assembly does matter b/c of the weight. You're telling me using a heavy *** forged h-beam will result in the same amount of power as using a lighter weight rod. Ya, if you're running a crapload of power you need the heavier, stronger rod but sometimes a bottom bargain forged rod weighs less than a STOCK rod does. Mr. John Lingenfelter himself suggested that it might be worth it to upgrade to light forged components simply for the weight reduction not to mention the added insurance. You don't have to buy the 4340 steel but one of the less strong forged steel alloys would work great in most mild to moderate applications. An identical forged rod will weigh less than a stock cast rod. Think of the result if you could drop 1 or 2 pounds from your rotating assembly? Yeah... exactly

Oh, and .525/.525 lift is mild for you guys? Im sorry, but im a big fan of brutal amounts of low end torque and that cam aint going to give it. I figure an LT1 or even an LT4 cam is a good compromise on bottom and top end power

scottland

Why did you have to bring this year old post back from the dead?