nedding a new bottom end soon...need recommendations
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ky
Car: 89 camaro w/t-tops
Engine: lo3
nedding a new bottom end soon...need recommendations
The lo3 has 194000 miles on it.Since I did the top end, its begun to burn oil.The wore out bottom end is just having a hard time keeping up.So Im planning on replacing it by spring.I dont need a new engine since the top ends good and new.
Considering the mods (see sig) what will be a good 350 block?Im leaning toward a ZZ4 shortblock.Any other suggestions?
BTW...its my daily driver but Im looking for 300+ hp.
Considering the mods (see sig) what will be a good 350 block?Im leaning toward a ZZ4 shortblock.Any other suggestions?
BTW...its my daily driver but Im looking for 300+ hp.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 96
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From: Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Trans am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I believe scoogin dickey sells a L98 short block assembly for around $1300, but the ZZ4 is alot better and alot stronger. Also check out speedomotive.com They sell some nice shortblocks.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ky
Car: 89 camaro w/t-tops
Engine: lo3
Kfoley, I can go either way really.It depends on the $$$ and time involved.I never thought of it until you mentioned it.It'll probably be best for me to get one preassembled since I wont be doing this until spring (if the lo3 last that long) and thats when I'll start 60 hr work weeks so free time will become a issue.
I was leaning toward the zz4 since its supposed to be "the bomb", but $$$ talks so if anyone knows of a shortblock just as good for cheaper Im open for options.
I was leaning toward the zz4 since its supposed to be "the bomb", but $$$ talks so if anyone knows of a shortblock just as good for cheaper Im open for options.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Some people like to build their own, some people like to have them built by "professionals" so to speak. I like to build my own, that way I know it was built right and there won't be any problems (I triple check everything). Some people like the warranty with assembled motors, but to be honest I haven't had an engine fail on me yet that I have put together. If you pay attention to detail and triple check everything and have the tools and confidence (and time) I'd say do it yourself. If you don't have time or the tools or confidence then definitely buy an assembled one. Cutting corners and second guessing yourself is a sure fire way to build a motor that won't last long. Really it's up to you. Cost is about the same by the time you figure the time you put into it (you do value your time right?).
Anyways, the ZZ4 shortblock is nice, but it's not "the bomb" per say. It's got powdered metal rods which are stronger (don't quote me tho, I'm just trying to remember what it has in it), I believe hyper pistons and a cast steel crank and all of those parts are brand new, including the block which is about $500 in itself. You get a quality shortblock, but I could build a stonger one (or just as stong) for less. By the time you figure in your labor it's about the same, but I like to save money and can't stand to spend money on something that I could do myself.
Here's what I would do:
Get a used 350 block and do all the prep work, bore/hone .030" square deck and mag it. If you want a roller cam, grab an '87 up roller block, they're everywhere and most junkyards won't know the difference between a roller and non roller so you'll get it for the same (if you keep your mouth shut when you pick out a block). Grab some Speed-Pro hyper FT pistons ($100 or less ebay) and moly rings (most come with the pistons), Cat or Eagle 5140 forged rods (cheap on Ebay, I got a set for $130 shipped) and an Eagle Steel Cast Crank ($200 or less on ebay/cnc-motorsports.com), Clevite 77 main/rod/cam bearings ($50 or so, cnc or ebay), fluidampr type damper ($100 or less for int balance 350, you could use the old one, but these are superior).
I think that covers everything, (I might have forgotten a thing or too tho, I'm working on no sleep here). So you're looking at $550 for the rotating assembly, $100 for the block (or less if you're lucky) and whatever the machine shop costs are (shouldn't be more than $500 with a square deck, $300 w/o). So total you're looking at ~$1200 (little cushion) for a parts, now you just have to put it together.
So I'm not sure how much the ZZ4 is, $2500 comes to mind, but I could be way off.... Well I gave you the pros and cons, now you have to make the choice whether it's worth it or not... Anymore questions, feel free to ask, and I'll try not to type so much next time... lol
Anyways, the ZZ4 shortblock is nice, but it's not "the bomb" per say. It's got powdered metal rods which are stronger (don't quote me tho, I'm just trying to remember what it has in it), I believe hyper pistons and a cast steel crank and all of those parts are brand new, including the block which is about $500 in itself. You get a quality shortblock, but I could build a stonger one (or just as stong) for less. By the time you figure in your labor it's about the same, but I like to save money and can't stand to spend money on something that I could do myself.
Here's what I would do:
Get a used 350 block and do all the prep work, bore/hone .030" square deck and mag it. If you want a roller cam, grab an '87 up roller block, they're everywhere and most junkyards won't know the difference between a roller and non roller so you'll get it for the same (if you keep your mouth shut when you pick out a block). Grab some Speed-Pro hyper FT pistons ($100 or less ebay) and moly rings (most come with the pistons), Cat or Eagle 5140 forged rods (cheap on Ebay, I got a set for $130 shipped) and an Eagle Steel Cast Crank ($200 or less on ebay/cnc-motorsports.com), Clevite 77 main/rod/cam bearings ($50 or so, cnc or ebay), fluidampr type damper ($100 or less for int balance 350, you could use the old one, but these are superior).
I think that covers everything, (I might have forgotten a thing or too tho, I'm working on no sleep here). So you're looking at $550 for the rotating assembly, $100 for the block (or less if you're lucky) and whatever the machine shop costs are (shouldn't be more than $500 with a square deck, $300 w/o). So total you're looking at ~$1200 (little cushion) for a parts, now you just have to put it together.
So I'm not sure how much the ZZ4 is, $2500 comes to mind, but I could be way off.... Well I gave you the pros and cons, now you have to make the choice whether it's worth it or not... Anymore questions, feel free to ask, and I'll try not to type so much next time... lol
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Oh, time wise, you could build the shortblock in a day (or less if you've done it a few times). It takes me about 2-3 hours if everything is sitting there ready to go.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque, NM
Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73 12 bolt with Brute Strength
I agree with kfoley. Three other advantages to building your own new motor is the fact that used blocks have gone through so many heating/cooling cycles that the blocks are much more stable than new blocks. All the core shifting they are going to do is done. Of course you have to choose a good block with no or little core shift.
The ZZ4, while being a good motor, is still assembly built and if you choose your machine shop wisely and follow blue print techniques, you will have the opportunity to build a better motor as far as precision is concerned.
Lastly, and it maybe nitpicking but most crate motors I know of don't come with a flexplate/flywheel. Some don't even have a harmonic balancer. There is no way to get a precise balance without those items on hand for the machinist to balance. The balance must be compromised even if it's just a little.
The ZZ4, while being a good motor, is still assembly built and if you choose your machine shop wisely and follow blue print techniques, you will have the opportunity to build a better motor as far as precision is concerned.
Lastly, and it maybe nitpicking but most crate motors I know of don't come with a flexplate/flywheel. Some don't even have a harmonic balancer. There is no way to get a precise balance without those items on hand for the machinist to balance. The balance must be compromised even if it's just a little.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
You brought up some good points that I didn't think of... BTW, how's that 350 of a different color running? I haven't heard about it in a while.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
You can get the 350HO long block for just over $2000 with vortec heads and a decent camshaft.
As for the ZZ4 shortblock, way too much money for a motor without forged pistons...
As for the ZZ4 shortblock, way too much money for a motor without forged pistons...
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque, NM
Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73 12 bolt with Brute Strength
Originally posted by kfoley
You brought up some good points that I didn't think of... BTW, how's that 350 of a different color running? I haven't heard about it in a while.
You brought up some good points that I didn't think of... BTW, how's that 350 of a different color running? I haven't heard about it in a while.
There will be more than a few members snickering if this thing blows up, so I'm being very detailed.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Yeah, I know how that is. All those little parts sure do add up, and they do it real quick too. I'll keep an eye out for updates after the holiday. I'm curious to hear how it performs, since it sounds like a strong combo. Good luck!
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