Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

BBC swap

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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 08:17 PM
  #1  
Bitchin89RS's Avatar
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From: Austin, Tx
Car: '89 RS
Engine: LT4
Transmission: 700R4
BBC swap

Well my dad and i are thinking about going all out on my camaro.... Our family has finally caught back up to speed with all of the economy crap going on and we're going to use one of his retirement checks to blow on the 'maro... So we're thinkin' maybe a 454, 502, or maybe one of those new fangeld 572's.... I just need oppinions and some ideas on approaching this massive task.

I've already got a rearend set up, subframe connectors, and a weight reduction in place....

Tell me what else, I need to know please!


Thanks.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 06:04 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
where or what did he retire from that one check will cover the cost of this?
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 02:44 PM
  #3  
XJOSHX's Avatar
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From: New Bedford Ma
Car: 1988 Iroc-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
He said checks, thats plural as in more than one.

I would say your main worry is going to be hood clearance and exhaust. I say you are better off getting custom headers built for you. If them are too much you can always go with the headers hooker makes. You are going to need some kind of stout tranny to handle all the power. I am not to sure if you want a manual or an auto but if you want an auto there are pretty much 3 choices. A built TH350 a mildly built TH400 which you have to modify the floor pan a little to get it in there, or a 2 speed powerglide. Try to get as many small or lightweight parts you can. Small alternators, starters etc etc. That will give you more room under the hood for maitnance. You also might need to get new springs depending on how the front end sits. Is this going to be a track only car or a street car?
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 03:42 PM
  #4  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
he said "one of" which would be singular
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 04:21 PM
  #5  
Bitchin89RS's Avatar
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From: Austin, Tx
Car: '89 RS
Engine: LT4
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ede
where or what did he retire from that one check will cover the cost of this?
He retired from 23 years of the Airforce, the check covers around 6-7k.... maybe a little more...
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 05:35 PM
  #6  
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: BBC swap

Since you are beginning with a V6 plan on replacing almost anything mechanical. (I began with a V6, too.)

Transmission could be 700R4, 4L60E, TH350, TH400, or a variety of manual transmissions. The TH400 is the most reliable and durable but only has three forward gears. The TH350 is a little more effecient than the TH400 and will transfer more power to the ground, but expect rebuilds now and then. The 700R4 will give you an overdrive but expect occasional rebuilds and possibly total failure. The 4L60E is a more modern version of the 700R4 and has electronic controls that could be integrated into a fuel injection package (if you buy the right ones). The 4L80E is an overdrive version of the TH400 but it is MASSIVE and will not fit without expanding the transmission tunnel. Remember that the factory torque arm mounts to the transmission tailshaft. Any transmission other than original equipment will force you to get a new transmission crossmember with a torque arm mount provision. But this is what you want anyway because you can tune the suspension for better traction and not stress the transmission housing so badly.

Upgrade the rearend and driveline to handle the power. Same with suspension. You should consider new lower control arms, subframe connectors, torque arm, and front tower brace. Adjustable pieces allow the ability to tune the suspension but are more expensive. Usually people will not spend money for adjustable components. It is also recommended (but optional) to upgrade the rear panhard rod and install a steering box brace. You could just see how the car handles and add them later, if needed. Safety equipment may be necessary depending on how you want to use the car. I would definitely use a driveline safety loop regardless.

If you use a big block it will drop in the engine bay but you may consider a tubular front cross-member for added room and the ability to position the engine down, forward, or back. Exhaust will be a challenge. The selection of headers aren't fabulous and anything that actually fits is rather expensive. The Hooker SuperComp headers just don't fit right and they dump the exhaust right under the the front of the doors (UGLY!). I had custom set of Tri-Y headers made by Lemons Headers in California. They dump the exhaust right by the transmission pan and allow you to tie in to existing exhaust kits on the market. They still have the pattern and can make you a set.

If you have a need for speed you may consider better brakes. The added weight will definitely make the car harder to stop (let alone the speed). And then you will want wheels and tires to actually put the power to the ground, and look good You'll need a better cooling system too. The list goes on really and it will continue to nickel and dime you to death even after it's on the road.

It takes a lot of money to do a big block swap and have a car that can actually put the power to the ground. Expect $15K+ before you're done. And also expect to lose most of that when you go to sell the car. It's best to begin with a car that has intrinsic value so you don't lose much money. Your Camaro (and my Firebird) do not. You can do it on the cheap but the car just won't perform. The entire car needs to work together and that's the basis behind my recommendations.

Last edited by QwkTrip; Jan 21, 2004 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 06:21 PM
  #7  
chev496's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 287
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From: Ottawa lk, MI, By Toledo, Oh
Car: 90 RS
Engine: 8 holes
Transmission: Quickest, quicker, quick...
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73
Just remember when qwkitrip states 15k he doesnt mean right than and there. Usually you can pick at it like i am doing. I got the engine in, jsut running rubber instead of a stainless to start. I am on street and stock brakes instead of good ones. But i totally agree with qwktrip, lot of time, but totally worth it.
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