HEy all, swapping a 350 into my 91 RS TBI and just have a couple a questions.

Am I going to need to run a new fuel line up to the carb? Second, is the dying of the in tank fuel pump linked to using an AFPR?

Also, for gods sake how do I figure out what parts of the wiring harness I can delete from this thing? My engine is so pretty, and all those unused wires really look bad!

Thank you very much, have a good one!

 

well if the harness is unues that ought to tip you off that it can be removed. you can remove all of the harness associated with the ecm. start at the ecm and work into the engine bay or start with all the unused connections and work to the ecm. it isn't that ahrd to do after you get started. i'd run a mechanical fuel pump and disconnect the intake pump.

 

Hey ede, thanks for the reply. Well I have been told by a few that its a good idea to leave some of it in (for what reason, I don't know) I think he said so it was easier to run power to the alternator or distributor....or something...I don't know. But yah, I'll wait till I get most of the stuff in then start tracing the wiring back. Oh yah, can I use my old alternator? Or do I need to get a 1 wire? Id rather use the old one cause I can afford that one

Anyway, I know you've disconnected the old pump and put a mechanical pump in, but I've heard of many people that that wouldn't work for them. Any others successful with this? Not succesful?

Thanks!

 

yeah, what he said on the wiring. it isn't that bad once you start. the harness out of the passenger side is basically unused, it is the harness from the drivers side you need to keep. it has your ignition, starter, and alt wires.

as for fuel pump, I use the in tank with an AFPR (Mallory 4309), as many others on here have done. We tried a mechanical once on a truck and it wouldn't pull through the factory in tank unit. but others may have had luck...

 

ytah and thats the p[roblem, I don't want to buy a new pump and have it not be able to pull through So my question about fuel lines....do I need to run new ones?

thanks, looks like its the mallory unit...

cheers

 

well the lines from the tank to the engine bay will be ok. you jusst need to make a new connection to your carb, from the AFPR. I got 3/8 NPT fittings crimped on the ends of my stick rubber lines to hook up the AFPR to the hard lines, and I run braided line to the carb.

 

you said basically unused? what exactly does that mean? i need to know, cause im gonna start sellin off my old parts pretty soon.

Thanks!

 

that harness is all for the ECM and the sensors, which will not be used if switching to a carb...

 

am I going to have to wire the fuel pump hot?

thanks

 

there are many ways to wire it up, I can only tell you how I did it. anyway you decide, you should use a relay. You can wire it directly to a switched 12 volt source so it comes on whenever you turn on the key...I wired a relay with a toggle switch, and the toggle is powered to a switched 12 volt. so basically the key must be on, but the pump doesn't run until I hit the toggle. it's a safeguard really so if i forget to turn off the switch, the pump won't keep running. and we can turn the engine over without the pump running, or if i need to empty the fuel system to work on it i can jsut turn off the pump and let the car run out of fuel...hope this all makes senses. if not let me know and I can tell you the exact wiring...

 

yes please by all means let me know how you did it. What else will I have to bypass int his manner to get everythign to work correctly like it did with the ECM?

The switch idea is kinda cool too in case someone tries to steal it. That would be funny.


thanks alot!

 

there shouldn't be anything else to bypass, as I recall. i pulled up the carpet behind the back seat and spliced a new wire into the fuel pump power wire, i think it was brown on my car, I can verify that for you later. this wire ran to the relay (i got one at radio shack, 12 volt, 30 amp, 4 connections). i actually used the factory power lead off the starter that ran to the underhood fuel pump relay (which is now gone), and used it to get juice to the new relay. the other two posts on the relay are the power from your switch, and a ground. i wired the toggle's power into the fusebox at one of the ignition leads. if you get a relay, instructions will tell you what goes where....

ket me know how you are doing with it

 

oh i forgot to mention, with this done and the ECM and harness completely removed, EVERYTHING works fine, including the speedo, fuel sender, lights, all of it....none of this conversion is really as hard as some people make it sound.

and the check engine light doesn't even come on, i thought i was going to have to do the electrical tape fix on that one...

 

great thanks for all of the advice. What about the speedo and tachometer? Keep in mind that I have a completely new engine and accessories (cept the alternator)

 

speedo will work provided you don't remove the wires running to the tranny, from the driver side harness, and the factory tach lead is the white wire that goes into your coil, on the same connector with the large pink wire (the pink is your igniton)

 

i could have swore that the wires that went into the tranny were connected right to the ECM?

i'll give it another look over to make sure (got the harness out though already, but I know what those two plugs on the tranny look like) where do they hook to the drivers side harness at?

Also the tach wire, is that hooked to the drivers side harness as well? Where was the HEI on the computer controlled dist? i took all of that stuff off months ago, and don't quite remember.....I know...my bad!

thanks alot philm for all your help!

 

the speedo and backup light wires (which are the only ones into the tranny) do come out of the driver harness, they run down under the master cylinder and inside the tunnel. at least that is how they are on mine, can't see yours being different.

the tach wire is the white one, drivers harness, that goes into the same connector as the pink ignition wire. These are the wires into the grey connector at your ignition coil. as for the distributor, there are two connections into the factory distributor. one goes into the hraness (ECM passenger side), the other goes to the coil...

let me know what else you need, and feel free to email me.