86 305 TPI --> crate 350
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 508
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From: Round Lake,IL
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700R4
86 305 TPI --> crate 350
i finaly realized it is not worth it to build a 86 305 TPI, which is in my car right now with 66,000 mi. so i bought a totaled 87 chevy truck with a 350 crate motor which had 45,000 mi. on it, it was only $400.00 for everything that was on the truck
. so we pulled it out and the 350 is in my garage floor, next to my car
.
. so we pulled it out and the 350 is in my garage floor, next to my car
. Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
From: Round Lake,IL
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700R4
my plans for this motor is to trash everything except the block
. this is to make way for the forged 383 project :rockon:.
so does anyone know a ruff estiment to machine my 350 to a 383.
. this is to make way for the forged 383 project :rockon:.so does anyone know a ruff estiment to machine my 350 to a 383.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Looks like a worthy recepient.
Which "crate" 350? Goodwrench?
If so, the block is about all that you're going to be able use. And, have it checked very carefully for cracks and cylinder wall thickness before you let them spend any of your money on it. Machining costs vary, you really need to check around in your area. It'll probably cost more to have them clearance the block than it will to do the other "normal" machining.
I haven't seen them specifically, but you might consider a stock-bore kit if the cylinders are in good shape. You'd end up with a 377, but the extra 6 cid doesn't make that much difference. Then you'll have the .030" there for the next rebuild.
Which "crate" 350? Goodwrench?
If so, the block is about all that you're going to be able use. And, have it checked very carefully for cracks and cylinder wall thickness before you let them spend any of your money on it. Machining costs vary, you really need to check around in your area. It'll probably cost more to have them clearance the block than it will to do the other "normal" machining.
I haven't seen them specifically, but you might consider a stock-bore kit if the cylinders are in good shape. You'd end up with a 377, but the extra 6 cid doesn't make that much difference. Then you'll have the .030" there for the next rebuild.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
From: Round Lake,IL
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700R4
i'm not shure one what brand the block is, all i know is the block was bought new, block had 0 mi. and was never in a car before, from GM.
i only need the block, i am replaceing all of the internals with forged internals
i only need the block, i am replaceing all of the internals with forged internals
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The Goodwrench 350 is a new GM long-block. Typically made in Mexico. Typically used as an economical replacement engine, often in trucks (there's one in my '84 full-size van).
The "Mexico" and "economical" parts are where you need to be careful. Casting quality isn't always the best. Even a .030" overbore can be a problem for a high-output engine.
I'd highly recommend a check for cracks and sonic cylinder wall thickness check before you spend any machining money on this block. In fact, I don't recall ever hearing of anyone who has turned one into a 383.
The "Mexico" and "economical" parts are where you need to be careful. Casting quality isn't always the best. Even a .030" overbore can be a problem for a high-output engine.
I'd highly recommend a check for cracks and sonic cylinder wall thickness check before you spend any machining money on this block. In fact, I don't recall ever hearing of anyone who has turned one into a 383.
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