im pulling my motor soon,
---is it easier to pull the motor and trans as 1? or is it easier to disconnect the trans in the car and just pull the motor? i only ask, cus the first motor swap done on my car, they were both taken out as one since my trans was blown too. i just dont know exactly what route i should go

---and since im thinking that the trans should be left in the car, exactly how many bolts are there and how many of these are on top and really hard to get to?

thanks for any infor and any tips are appreciated

 

pull them boath at the same time. from experence it's the fasetr way. Let me tell you, I know

 

the bolts are that hard to get to huh. i havent even looked to see whats involved in taking out the trans too. i guess it wouldnt be a bad time to ****** the ratchet shifter out of the 78 Z and throw it in there though huh?

 

I just took mine all out as 1 a little while ago.

It was easier for me to remove the torque arm, shift linkage, and cross member than to try and mess with the bell housing bolts while it was still in the car.

 

I'll vote for pulling the motor and leaving the trans in the car. I've done it both ways and its a lot more of a pain to pull them both. The tranny will dump fluid everywhere. Not to mention you'll have to disconnect the torque arm, the crossmember, the shifter linkage, the wiring, the speedo cable or VSS, etc. Also to get the engine out with the tranny still attached you'll have to pull the crank pulley.

The bellhousing bolts are cake, just use some long extensions, a stubby 9/16th wrench, and a normal 9/16th wrench and they'll come right out. The hardest part is still getting the ground wires on the back of the block around the AIR injection pipe to the cat.

 

Actually get a 9/16's swivel socket and about 2 feet of extensions. Takes about 10 min total to remove the bell housing bolts. Another thing is to drop the back of the trans down to get to the top bolts easier.

Kat

 

Yep, forgot to mention dropping the tranny down... just pull the dist cap and unbolt the crossmember from the body and let the tailshaft hang down and its cake... Or you can remove the top bolts with Gear Wrenchs, and the bottom with extensions. The only one that every gives me much grief is the middle one on the drivers side, a stubby wrench is about the easiest method I've found to get on it.

 

yeah if your not going to be replacing the transmission then leave it be there is no reason to pull it out and have to deal with the lines and shiftlinkage and all the other bs on the transmission when you dont have to just take the bellhousing bolts out drop the dust cover on the flywheel and take out the 3 torque converter

make sure to do as said above and get plenty of extensions and a 9/16 swivel socket and brace up the transmission when you remove the engine with a jack so you can tie it up out of the way afterwards

 

Thats what my uncle did when we pulled my 305 out. It was a PITA, but didn't take too long. Awkward more than anything else.

 

ive got a question...im leaving my tranny in the car when i pull the motor. the bellhousing bolts are cake to get to especially with just a bare block and heads in the engine compartment.

whats the best way to go about removing the motor and not bending the input shaft on the tranny? you cant just slide the motor towards the front of the car because of the motor mounts...

 

Put a jack under the tranny.

 

ive got a jack under there but my question still remains.

should i jack up the tranny when i start to lift the motor?
should the tranny mount be unbolted to do this??

 

Raise each a little at a time until the mounts clear enough to move the engine forward.

You can leave the transmission mount hooked up.

 

thanks! it would suck to bend the input shaft and wait even longer to fire the car up until i could save enogh money to get a new tranny/fix the t-5.

 

I would like to leave the trans in the car when I pull my 305, and after reading the Haynes manual, I'm beginning to wonder.....so to lower the back of the trans, doesnt the torque arm from the diff have to be removed, and wont it fly up into the floorpan? Haynes recommends putting a block of wood under the floor to keep it in place....of course they said it might be necessary to cut holes in the floorpan to get some bellhsng bolts.......do I need to loosen the motor mount bolts too? ......

 

after all the wires and fluid was drained, The very first time pulling a V engine was this 305 a week ago. Got it pulled within an hour. Was engine and trans as 1. Only problem i had was the front of the engine where the ballancer is wanted to hit the front . I got a peice of wood in there oh well. It was cake imo.

 

I did my tranny & engien seperately. Had teh trannyall hooked up in back & suspendedin front w/some extra wire. Only took 1.5 hrs to drop 305 in & bolt up to tranny, including running to advance to get new tranny bolts (kudos to TGO & search function on getting the size off topic: the v8 tranny bolts are smaller than the 3800 tranny bolts )

 

Yep we sure did. And probably 15 minutes of that was getting on and off base.


When I did mine I pulled the engine seperately from the T-5 just because it was easier I was working in a short garage and didn't have enough room to jack the crane up high enough to get both over the front of the car. Plus I found it easier to just drop the tranny out the bottom? Maybe it's just me?