Ok so Im finished, but the two things that came up.

1. The lower rad hose which Im using a 94 Vette hose as many have said work, and it's rubbing my PS pulley. did you guys modify it or leave it???

Im going to look into one that fits my application better or modify another one, since this one has almost burst.


2. my charging system like many others isn't working. I have 2 brown wires that plug into my alternator, I assum that is for the regulator. but it isn't charging at all so would it be a good guess that the Alt is toast?

my harness was mint and uncut except into the passenger compartment, so I would assume everything for charging is setup properly? Also it is a 96 engine and harness but the PCM is a 95 will that make a difference?

also I did manage to drive it a bit and damn its' fun.

Also what does everyones LT1 oil pressure read, mine floats around 15-25psi sometimes idling can hit as low as 10psi, Im running 10W-30 mobil1 and a Fram filter, with a big oil cooler from earls, new oil pump as well. Im thinking of switching to a heavery 10w40 or heavier amsoil and a K&N Filter.


Anyhelp on these issues would be nice, as I searched and only found posts relating to 1 red wire connections.

 

Fixed both issues, alt was toast, getting rebuilt, and the lower hose is correct, I just need to chop a bit off to get it to fit nicer.

 

i would worry about that oil pressure!! my LT1 in my impala runs just under 50psi till it warms up and then has about 25psi min during idle and hits around 50psi under full throttle.

 

A very common problem to all Lt1's is a poor oil pressure sending unit. Try changing this first. Get a Delco part and let us know what happens.

 

replaced sender, also tested with a mech guage I get in the mid teens to 20's lowest it went was 7psi at idle, I figure the clearances are very loose and my running a 10w30 and a fram filter might be contributin.

The oil isn't burning that's for sure, but I know with low oil pressure I will need to rebuild it sooner or later, (prefer later but I know better to know it will be sooner)

I plan to run a thicker oil and K&N filter to see if I get an oil pressure increase. The pump is brand new as well.

I know thicker oil is a bandaid, but I have also never felt comfortable running a thin oil like what I have now in a used engine, I just happend to have some on hand.

How much do stock short block rebuilds cost on average?

 

I also run 10w30 in my car. I always have and have strong oil pressure readings. Sorry to hear about your problem. You may be able to squeek by for a while before hearing any 'noises'. If you are going to a rebuild...you may as well<as Tim Taylor would say>give it 'More Power'
One place I called nearby that does great work told me a ballpark of $2500-3500. That included an overbore and all name brand US made parts. How about a pic the car?

 

Wow 2500-3500 US$, ****, oh well Ill see how long she will last

pics

this is still working on it

 

Before the exhaust is on, you can see how high the rear comes up, this is about 10 liters of fuel and plastic LS1 tank.

 

Minor things but fairly completed.


Need to redo powersteering lines again, too many fittings

 

Nice....so the plastic Ls1 tank was not a big deal? How does the filler neck line up and sit in the gas door?

 

how much weight does the LS1 tank save u?? what are any other benifits over the stock tank?

 

I wouldn't want to lose any weight in the rear...=/. I'd want it out of the front.

 

I head claims of upto 18lbs different, but that was on a LT1 car, the filler neck has a rubber hose that connects the neck to the tank, so it's a cut and fit. currently I need to re cut again, it's justa little too far out for the door.


and ya I need more weight loss on the nose, but hey any weight loss is good to start with.

fit meant, isn't bad on it, the stock straps need to be bent alittle, Im looking into using an LS1 set of straps, or LT1 to see if they work any better, as there is some gaps in where they contact, but the tank is not moving at all.