could someone help me figure this out?
i have a 2002 Fbody drivetrain, this harness thing is from a 99.. it SHOULD still be correct though.. little help?
i have a 2002 Fbody drivetrain, this harness thing is from a 99.. it SHOULD still be correct though.. little help?
Code:
LS1 Harness 3rdgen wires Question/Location White (220) Plug A TAN Oil Pressure Tan oil pressure wire on 3rdgen Stock Oil pressure wire B GRY PCM 32 Clutch Anticipate Switch Signal to clutch down switch. ?? what does the other half of the clutch switch goto? (doesnt need for running) C PNK C105-B IGN Power for TCC Stop Lamp Switch nothing on 6spd D PPL PCM 33 TCC/Cruse Brake Switch nothing on 6spd E BLK/WHT Ground ground whatever good chassis ground is nearby H ORN/BLK PCM 34 PNP Switch Signal to clutch down switch. ?? I thought pin B goes there? (doesnt need for running) J YEL/BLK Low Coolant Indicator nothing K DK GRN/WHT PCM 50 VSS Output speedo pulse speedo input wire Blue (230) Plug A GRY PCM 46 5V Feed (Fuel tank pressure) nothing B Brown w/Stripe PCM 25 MIL Lamp Control SES light on dash Tap into SES light in gauge cluster (reminder to self: bulb is out) C WHT PCM 45 EVAP Canister Vent Valve Control nothing E Blue PCM 55 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable for VATS pulse (not needed if deleted in PCM) nothing, but use HP tuners F DK GRN/WHT PCM 17 A/C Request nothing (AC delete) G GRY PCM 23 Fuel Ground nothing. fuel gauge on LS1 car. H DK GRN PCM 64 Fuel Tank Pressure nothing J PPL PCM 54 Fuel Level Input nothing K DK GRN PCM 58 Serial Data (Class 2) ALDL get ALDL connector and wire this into it. 99 LS1 PCM to Front Harness Large Plug C100 Plug A PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 1 15A) +12v Ignition only power Run from factory injector power #1(with 15A injector fuse) B DK GRN/WHT PCM 43 A/C Clutch Relay Control nothing C DK GRN PCM 18 A/C Clutch Status nothing D GRY TPS +5v to TCS nothing E DK BLU TPS signal to TCS nothing G PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (Tranny/EGR 15A) +12v ignition Run from ignition triggered relay. (15A fuse) H DK BLU PCM 33 Cooling Fan 2 and 3 Relay Control nothing Run to neg(ground) trigger of high speed fan relay (if equipped) J DK GRN PCM 42 Cooling Fan 1 Relay Control to GROUND on fan relay. Run to neg(ground) trigger of low speed fan relay K BLK TPS sensor low to TCS nothing C101 Plug A YEL/BLK Low Coolant Sensor nothing B PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 2 15A) +12v Ignition only power Run from factory injector power #2 (with 15A injector fuse) C BRN PCM 36 Air Pump Relay Control nothing D DK GRN/WHT PCM 9 Fuel Pump Relay Control Ground Trigger for fuel pump relay Run to neg(ground) trigger of Fuel pump relay E PNK/BLK PCM 19 Ignition Positive Voltage for PCM +12v Ignition only power Run from factory ECM power G ORN PCM 57 Battery Positive Voltage for PCM +12v hooked straight to batt via inline fuse. 10A fuse H BLK/WHT Ground ground Run to chassis ground. K GRY/BLK PCM 53 TCS Spark Retard Signal to Brake Control Module nothing C105 Plug B PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (TCC Stop Lamp Switch/MAF/O2 20A) + 12v Run from ignition triggered relay. (20A fuse) D DK GRN PCM 37 Cruise Control Inhibit nothing F WHT PCM 13 Cruise Engaged Signal nothing G WHT PCM 10 Tach out to Brake Control Module this is what goes to the Tach (and tach signal driven components) Connect to Tach wire H PPL PCM 4 AIR Solenoid Relay Control nothing
Member
which ecm do you have.. the 99 or 02? the drivetrain shouldnt matter unless the sensors have changed between 99 and 02
Quote:
Originally posted by Ace
which ecm do you have.. the 99 or 02? the drivetrain shouldnt matter unless the sensors have changed between 99 and 02
everything i have is from a 2002... the pinout chart i got that from is for a 99 but ive been told that the 99-02 connector pinouts are the same except for EGR.Originally posted by Ace
which ecm do you have.. the 99 or 02? the drivetrain shouldnt matter unless the sensors have changed between 99 and 02
Supreme Member
Sent PM. Should we copy and paste it in here, or will you sort it out up top?
Quote:
Originally posted by StngKlr
Sent PM. Should we copy and paste it in here, or will you sort it out up top?
Originally posted by StngKlr
Sent PM. Should we copy and paste it in here, or will you sort it out up top?
i think i sortted it up out top.... i did have a couple more questions i asked in a PM...
but i changed what you told me.
thanks dude.
the only pins in question now are 220-B, 220-H, and the other half of the C105-B circuit.
C105-B trips a relay for the MAF and O2s... but where does the power that relay is switching goto?
C105-B trips a relay for the MAF and O2s... but where does the power that relay is switching goto?
Supreme Member
220 H - I didnt use so...
220 B - I have an auto, didnt use...
Maybe theres a misunderstanding, but C105 B does not trip a relay, but recieves power FROM a relay to supply power for those 3 things.
Wiring is so hard to explain to someone face to face, let alone over the net. Please tell me you guys are getting this.
220 B - I have an auto, didnt use...
Maybe theres a misunderstanding, but C105 B does not trip a relay, but recieves power FROM a relay to supply power for those 3 things.
Wiring is so hard to explain to someone face to face, let alone over the net. Please tell me you guys are getting this.
Supreme Member
This where the 3 front LS1 harness connectors used to be. I think the best thing to do is get the other side of the connectors with the wires cut off and make your splices there. Its something I didnt do, just got in too much of a hurry. The 220 230 connectors will route inside the car, just use the factory hole in the firewall where the stock HVAC wires go into the car for those. Then all of my relays are wired up in the factory location on the drivers side, and I think 5 or 6 wires run from there to the PCM to tie everything in. I hope this helps a little more, and dosent confuse.
ok, ive decided to drop the idea of keeping the OEM connectors...mostly because getting connectors that plug into there is a total PITA.... i am however going to use weatherpack connectors between the harness and car.
now theres several ways i can do this.. im posting this up because im looking for feedback and ideas:
method1:
put only the used wires in each OEM connector to each weatherpack connector
example:
220 would have 5 wires used - so the5 would be on one weatherpack connector
230 2 wires
C100 would have 4 wires
C101 5 wires
C105 2 wires
method2:
sort them by logic
one connector has gauge outputs: oil pressure, water temp (stick 98 sensor into engine harness), tach, speedo...
one connector has remaining outputs/inputs: fan triggers, fuel trigger, backup lights,starter
final connector is bigger with main power feeds: injectors/coils, constant ECM power, ign ECM power, MAF/O2, ect...
method 3:
sort them by physical layout
these wires are close together so they goto connector A, ect... i dont have it here to see whats "close", so i would be working that out when i get there.
anyone have some feedback? im kinda leaning toward option #2 right now. athough i can see how option1 would let me "trace back" my wiring easier......
now theres several ways i can do this.. im posting this up because im looking for feedback and ideas:
method1:
put only the used wires in each OEM connector to each weatherpack connector
example:
220 would have 5 wires used - so the5 would be on one weatherpack connector
230 2 wires
C100 would have 4 wires
C101 5 wires
C105 2 wires
method2:
sort them by logic
one connector has gauge outputs: oil pressure, water temp (stick 98 sensor into engine harness), tach, speedo...
one connector has remaining outputs/inputs: fan triggers, fuel trigger, backup lights,starter
final connector is bigger with main power feeds: injectors/coils, constant ECM power, ign ECM power, MAF/O2, ect...
method 3:
sort them by physical layout
these wires are close together so they goto connector A, ect... i dont have it here to see whats "close", so i would be working that out when i get there.
anyone have some feedback? im kinda leaning toward option #2 right now. athough i can see how option1 would let me "trace back" my wiring easier......
Supreme Member
I think either 1 or 2 are very good ideas. In my case I just have to undo the big red and blue connectors at the PCM to trace/test any wiring, should I need to. Having those connectors will save a little bit of time down the road.