What is the part number for a bare 350 block from GM. I'm in the process of doing a rebuild but I want to start from scratch, especially to avoid a "bad" used block and machine work. Where can I get a new block? I tried Summit Racing, but I'm not sure if their blocks would work with the newer style cams. please help!

will this block work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

with this kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

and these hydrolic lifters:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CCA%2D853%2D16

Need suggestions please... Also, will I be able to salvage any of my accessories of the 305TBI, ANYTHING SALVAGEABLE? If certain parts were, I'de wait untill I have more money to buy them, maybe this winter... etc..

 

Unless this is going to be a rediculous race engine, just use a junkyard block... the vast majority of them are in good enough shape to be used again with basic machine work, but they cost between nothing and like, $50. A new block will cost alot more than that.

 

I understand that, but how much will the "basic" machine work cost? What if it fails a magnaflux test? But in case i do decide to go a new block route(maybe with a better rear/main), what is the part number?

Btw, whats the benefit of a 2piece or 1 piece rear main seal?

 

I don't know the exact part number, but I know GMPP (GM Pref Parts) sells naked blocks, but they aren't cheap. Aftermarket blocks are even more expensive.

Typically, the machine work needed by a run of the mill junkyard block will cost less than buying a new block.

 

I want to build it from scratch. If i can get a block for 6-7 hundred, will. Plus, all of the camaro's in the junkyards over here are rotted beyond belief and have a ton of milage. I'll have more confidence with a build on a new block. Also, I have a choice between a 1 piece and a 2 piece main if I go this route. Any suggestions on which would be a stronger and better choice? I have already found out the block I was looking into can accept hydraulic roller and flat tappets. So all I need to know is if a TPI intake or a stealth ram would fit correctly. I think it depends on the angle of the intake ports.

What are the pro's and con's of a one piece main compared to a 2 piece? The LT1's were a one piece and were considered an upgrade because of this over the l98's, correct?

 

You can get a junkyard block for pocket change... but an aftermarket block will cost you a minimum of $1200. Then you can add probably $200 freight to that too.

L98 and LT1 are both 1-peice seal blocks. The difference between an L98 and LT1 is that the LT1 has aluminum heads, and more importantly, reverse-flow cooling system. That means the heads get cooled first, then the block. The L98 (and all sbc before) cooled the block first, then the heads.

The good thing about a 1-peice seal is that its less likely to leak than a 2-peice seal. Parts like flywheels, flexplates and cranks are more common for the 2-peice seal blocks though, because those blocks are much more common. Theres nothing wrong with a 2-peice seal though... I have a 2-pc seal 350 and it doesn't leak.