i took my car to the shop and he listened to it and it said it sounded liek teh rods , iso i listened to it and at first it soudns liek its coming from inside teh block but then i went under the car and its comign from a big spining wheel thing that hooks up to the tranny and stuff, its coming form that area. and when i step on teh gass sometimes afte rteh car is warmed up it clanks got a hot second . any ideas what the problem may be?




thx guys

this is driveing me nuts

 

Sure sounds like rod bearings to me. Keep driving it! Once one of them comes flying out the side of the oil pan (or the block).... You'll know for sure then!

Honestly..... If a professional mechanic thinks it's the rods, and the sound is coming from the "Bottom End" of the engine, you probably don't have much time left before you're gonna need a tow truck.

 

aw poo!!

dam now i gotta save and buy a new dam engine grr i mind as well replace teh rans while im at it too, ill just buy a package deal off ebay and pay soemoen to slap it in there....probably all gonan cpost liek 1000-1300 damit.....grr ill just driveit till it breaks ........this dam camaro is

 

#1 - Be careful with e-bay!
#2 - Better check your $$ guess-estimate again. If some else is getting paid to install this engine your number is a bit low!
#3 - A brand new GM Short-Block...NOT REBUILD, NOT USED, NEW from Scroggins-Dickey is $1350 + shipping....Think about that one!

Sincerely,
Kurt

 

i know this guy who has a good 4.3 v6 that he has in a checy van and he neded the trans so he said he can give me theengine for liek 200 of i wanted it, do u think this is worth puttign in, ans if i did this what most likey trans woudl i need that came outta astro van.

 

tigercyberslash,
IMPO (in my personal opinion) - That's not a good idea. Especially since it sure sounds like you are on a very tight budget and need the vehicle. There is a heck of a lot involved in swapping engine sizes (up or down); exhaust, tranny, gears, wiring, accessories.IMPO Swapping in a V-6 is probably the worst possible idea you could come up with. That could turn out to be more costly in time and $ than a new motor of the size you have.

I would think it a much better idea if your money is REALLY tight to get a motor from a J.Yard. Many J.Yards will give you a short warranty of 30 to 90 days (always limited to a replacement motor only). In my area you could get a 305 for $150 (without a warranty). Probably $100 extra for a warranty of some sort. The warranty is well worth it, as they will be more inclined to provide a better motor in the first place. It's always a crap shoot at the J.Yard. You could end up with something that will give you 30,000 miles or 300. Maybe you would still need someone to put it in or help you do it yourself. But (IMPO) that's a better move than a V-6 if your on a tight tight budget. And it's about the same $$ as your friend's V-6.

My son and I just swapped a new motor into our Z-28. We got the motor for $50. After the machine shop was done with basic repairs (NO HIGH PERFORMANCE STUFF) we had $900 into the machine work. If you decided to repair your own.... Count on atleast that much since the rods are knocking and they (or some of them) will likely need replacement. The crankshaft is probably also damaged. My son and I had unlimited access to a wide variety of "free" tools and I've done several engine replacements in the past. With the help of TGO friends it wasn't too difficult for us to pull off by ourselves.

J.Yard 305 with a warranty may be YOUR best choice.

Sincerely,
Kurt

 

Ok dude if you need help with your car you are going to need to:
1. Learn how to SPELL
2. Learn how to TYPE

You can only get always with this type of spelling if you live outside of Canada, USA, or U.K. or have only leaved in any of those countries for less then 4years.

I am a bad speller but nowhere near this bad. A program that will help you out alot is Microsoft Word. us the spell check. Works like magic.

 

I'm into about $500 in machine work, and i'm doing a hi-po build, and I'm not even having half the stuff kurt did, done to my engine! it's gonna cost around $1300 in labor alone. also, a 4.3 V-6 would only be a good choice if you're gonna build the crap out of it, and use it in a stripped race car for road racing. the weight bias is near 50-50 in our car with a 4.3 . downside? it takes a lot of experience and custom parts to put one in our cars. also, why not buy a good wrench motor, or go to adance or autozone and get a rebuilt motor from them? no, it wouldn't be the hottest performer, but it would work just fine, and get you around til you're ready to build a hi-po engine.

 

well i think im just gonan get a used engine from a junk-yard or autozone like you said, then on top of that i then got to find someone to put it in for me. I dont know how hard this is going to be to find someone to put it in for cheap like 200-300.00 I am just gonna go with a 305 for it can just pop right in without any mods...i still think this camaro is

 

tigercyberslash,
If your Camaro is "B.S." throw it away, kick it to the curb, whatever, just get rid of it! Either #1-Somebody didn't take care of it properly (maybe you or maybe not) #2-The engine has too many miles and is worn out and due for a replacement.

I can't speak for anyone but myself, but I grew up thinking the Camaro, Firebird, and Vette were the coolest rides around. My son also feels the same way. That's why we spend so much time on this web-site and why we try to help others with what knowledge we are able to share. Most of the guys on this site seem to feel the same way and really like helping out people that have an appreciation for the F-Body cars and want to keep them running.

IMPO - If your Camaro is "B.S." toss it and buy a Honda or whatever you feel is not "B.S"!

See ya,
Kurt

 

it could be loose converter bolts....they will make the same sound dose it do it when the car is in drive with the brakes on and pressure on the gas?

 

no only when the car acutlly moves...when im on the brake it does not make the clanking noise. but in park something does rattle sometimes.

 

A crack in the flywheel can cause a nasty clanking noise. Just a thought.

 

and let me add it only clanks when t does for like 5 seconds while i step on teh gas and then it goes away. it only does it at a dertain point. like sometimes i can find teh spot where it does it asnd keep the pedle there and it wil keep makign that clankign noise, like stepign on and off teh gas right where the spot where it makes the noise.

BUt after i pass theo noise spot its rides smooth no problem cept that first litlte spot right when i take off , other then that it makes no noise.

 

This guy makes therckid look like a poet laureate.

 

LOl dam i didnt reilze it was that bad....my bad


ok i meant to say that it only makes te clanking noise right when i take off then it foes awy and then i har no more clankign until i stop then step on teh gas agin. Therefore it only makes this clanking when it first takes off. I hope this makes a lttie better sence.

 

u joints??

 

Bingo, my money is on a cracked or broken flywheel.

 

im gona take it to another shop and see what they say

 

...or in this case, a cracked "big spining wheel thing that hooks up to the tranny and stuff"...

 

"but then i went under the car and its comign from a big spining wheel thing that hooks up to the tranny"

that would be the flywheel

 

jeeze im not that stupid, i kwno what the big spining thingy is....i was just testing you guys...ya thats it

 

ok i just went out to the store whicj is 10 min away it made no noise the way there but the way back it did, then when i got home i tried puting my foot on thr brake then stepping on the gas, it made the noise.


so u guys think is teh rods or flywheel

 

My money is still betting 99% on the rods... WHY?

tigercyberslash has mentioned more than once that this occurs with a "Warmed Up" car (i.e. oil is hot) A cracked flywheel wouldn't make any difference warm or cold. It would (like a bad rod) be most noticeable at low RPM but I think we'd be hearing that it clanks like hell as he trys to start the car with a flywheel crack... He hasn't mentioned that. Clanking rods sound like they're coming from everywhere the end of the crank (flywheel area) would be a good area to hear the harmonic from a bad rod.

tigercyberslash has also had a professional tell him that it was the rods... If tigercyberslash keeps driving this vehicle around (whatever the problem is) very soon it will no longer run and hopefully he will be able to return and tell us what part exploded..... The Flywheel or the Rods.

tigercyberslash stop driving it! Every day you risk making it much worse. If the flywheel is bad you're going to destroy the transmission, starter, and torque converter, and maybe even damage the crank shaft if it cuts loose. If it's the rods, you probably won't do any damage to anything other than the motor, but hot oil can cause a fire, when the rod blasts through the side of the engine. Otherwise being late for work, and needing to pay a tow truck driver is probably the only additional cost.

Sincerely,
Kurt

 

Sorry bro but your wrong, Ive seen many a times a broken or cracked flywheel come and go. why? because say its cracked. It jams its self against its self and its quiet, say a hard down shift, or hard acceleration, loosens it again, its gonna clang like hell till it lodges itself against its self again. A rod knock wont come or go, if its bad enough to knock a difference of 20 psi wont make it stop. Especially after free- reving it in park, if its a rod its gonna be un-godly loud. Its mass changes direction from, up to down and back again. No matter what the flywheel is always spinning in the same direction. The flywheels mass is always moving in the same direction. If its a flywheel it wont make any noise if its lodged. I see this in my shop everyday. Im also sorry to say. just because a guy works in a shop, doesnt mean hes a professional. There are PLENTY of bad auto techs out there to go around.

 

aren't you the guy that really (i mean REALLY) overheated the engine and now it's all of a sudden making noises it didn't before? i'm betting on the rod/main bearing myself.

 

You should like you know what your talking about, so what do you think it is? the rod or something else? thx bro

 

no , but it did overheat before but i turned it off at 270 degress....but tahst teh most it over heated...the engine dosnt over heat . only if i forget to turn teh fan on. and it didnt start makign that noise till way after that happned.

 

I'm now at 99.95% for the RODS! Especially after the overheating event.

Look TGO guys.... We could all be correct! or NONE of us could be correct! Without being there to actually listen to the vehicle, drive it, look at it, look at the oil, check the contents of the filter for metal, rotate the wheel and look for damage, check the bolts on the flywheel..... WE'RE ALL GUESSING... tigercyberslash might be doing a little wishfull thinking here also. (i.e. It wasn' t THAT hot.... it's not THAT loud...)

What's most important here? I think it's important to help the guy avoid spending more cash than he has to, and/or help him avoid causing more damage.... To that end, tigercyberslash, Stop driving the damn thing and get started on the repair!

If either of the items that the guys here believe could be the problem, is in fact the problem, you'll need to get the tranny out either way. Therefore, pull the tranny and check the flywheel/flexplate. If the other guys are correct, and they COULD BE, you're probably gonna get off pretty cheap.....That is if you fix it BEFORE it really eats itself and everything around it. If that's not it you can now easily pull your oil pan and check the contents (metal in the bottom) and probably grab the rod ends and check for excessive play.

tigercyberslash,
IMPO - Everybody here is guessing, you don't appear to have the mechanical ability some of us have, that doesn't help us GUESS any better. A flashlight and a couple wrenches are all that would be needed to verify the condition (except the mounting bolts to the crank) of the flexplate and the torque converter mounting bolts. If you can't check that yourself, we're gonna have a hard time helping.

You are NOT going to get a "FIX THIS" OR "FIX THAT" and all you troubles are gone kind of response from anyone here (I hope!). Without being there, NOBODY can give you that kind of definitive response.

Sincerely,
Kurt

 

Huh?
Trying to add cooling capacity by using the internal heater fan?

 

Huh?
Trying to add cooling capacity by using the internal heater fan?

 

the cooling fan is on a switch...i bought it like thatt

 

The rad fan can be manually turned on as well, by putting the AC to max... I use that alot, since I don't like my engine getting to 235* before the switch in the head turns it on.

 

my engine always stays between 100-150 degrees...

 

I NEED UR GUYS ADVISE.
The following item i am thinking abotu gettign and puttign in my self. do u think this will make my engine like new?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true



what do u guys think

 

not bad. if you plan on keeping this car or modding it at all, i'd look for a 350. it woul be dumb to put in a 305 for the same money as a 350, when you can get the 350 to make more power, and, even if you're just trying to pass emissions and drive it, it will still pass with all the 305 stuff on it. it'll also increase the value if you do sell it, because most guys want a 350.

 

well if i get a 350 what will i need to make it work with my current stuff. will this be sucky if i keep my 305 stuff and will it hook up to my tranny.

 

tigercyberslash,

The engine you found on E-Bay seems to be a VERY good price. Even if you were to end up paying the guys Buy-It-Now price of $400 that would still be pretty good even after you paid the shipping on it.

I normally find that I agree with flyitlikustolit 100%, but in this case I don't agree. Sure a 350 would be more performance and some guys would pay more for it.....But..... You seem to be on a very tight budget and in order to use your 305 heads they would require a bit of machine work.... (hence $$$) probably several hundred extra dollars to cut in bigger valves. Also your 305 heads have smaller chambers that would boost your compression way up. IMPO, for your apparent tight budget,the E-Bay "Short-Block" you found, with all of your components installed on it, is a good deal. The 305 is not a bad engine, it's a very good engine. Hell its the same block as the 350 just a different Bore & Stroke.

Since you are looking for engines.....Have you determined that the rods are in fact the problem? I still PERSONALLY believe that is the issue. But as I stated in a previous post you won't know for sure until you crawl under there and do some inspection of the flywheel. There is a chance (SLIM IN MY OPINION) that the other guys could very well be correct. But also as stated previously, EVERYONE is guessing!

Sincerely,
Kurt

 

hey guys, im gonan go with a 350, but i need ur help in finding one. i found some, i just need to know what will i need to hook them up to my car with the 305 stuff still in there. here are some egines i found

NUMBER 1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

NUMBER 2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

 

SHIPPING WILL BE 228.15 on this,......so u think i shoudl just go with this?

 

tigercyberslash,
DID THE ENGINE BLOW?
Did you determine that it was the RODS?
I guess so..... since your looking to buy and engine?

 

well im guessing its the rods, from what u guys said and teh mevcantic. all guesses , but i thikn its most likely the rods. so im just gooan replace it. so u think that 305 block with rods and stuff is worth 250-400 plus 218.00 to ship plus to pay someoen to put it in

 

Tigersiberslash,
I guess the second mechanic said the same thing? You said you were going to have someone else look at it.
IMPO - I think it was a good price.... Let a couple other guys chime in on it ,as they may know of better places but that seemed good to me.

IMPO - If you are looking for a good, dependable, V-8 engine the 305 is as good as a 350. If you want to get more horsepower, probably less gas mileage and do some sort of "hot-rodding" the 350 would be a little better. It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. My son and I went 350 for a few reasons but mostly because we got the block for $50. We had to rebuild one of them, and we chose the 350.

Kurt

 

did you verify oil pressure?

 

If the Torque Converter bolts are loose, they can create similar noises, and it will only cost you a bottle of Loctite to fix it for good.
If its the Flexplate, they are only $20 and alot cheaper labor then engine replacement.

If your hell bent on replaceing the engine anyway (unless you verified thats the problem), then do a little research and look at other places besides ebay. Not that ebay is bad, but don't limit yourself.

The first engine is a 305 shortblock. If your not looking for added performance, a 305 is fine, but its a shortblock, which means you'll have to swap over the heads and other parts, which will increase the labor charges.

The two 350's you posted are 1970's Era, which is about the peak of low performance V8s and would probably only worth the block itself, if not already worn out. They also have a 2-piece rear main seal which in most instances are less desireable.

Get a second opinion and look at the converter bolts yourself.

 

where are teh converter bolts located

 

On the torque converter and the big spinning wheel thingy.

 

Obviously, later developments documented in another thread lead to the conclusion that this thread is wandering nowhere.

Time to say goodnight, Gracie.