will a shim fix this?
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
will a shim fix this?
Hey guys,
Im finishing up my 305 carbed to 350 vortec tpi swap. As I went to start her up for the first time I heard nothing but the starter motor. I climbed under the car and had someone turn the key and I see the starter gear come out to turn the flywheel and I noticed the gear is about an inch away from the flywheel. I have a vortec L31 block and the starter that applies to that block but I have the flywheel for an L98. I had to get that starter to match the bolt pattern to the block. If I shim it do you guys think it will help me with my problem or am I gonna have to get a different starter?
Thanks,
Im finishing up my 305 carbed to 350 vortec tpi swap. As I went to start her up for the first time I heard nothing but the starter motor. I climbed under the car and had someone turn the key and I see the starter gear come out to turn the flywheel and I noticed the gear is about an inch away from the flywheel. I have a vortec L31 block and the starter that applies to that block but I have the flywheel for an L98. I had to get that starter to match the bolt pattern to the block. If I shim it do you guys think it will help me with my problem or am I gonna have to get a different starter?
Thanks,
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: will a shim fix this?
Originally posted by vortec77
I have a vortec L31 block and the starter that applies to that block ... I had to get that starter to match the bolt pattern to the block.
I have a vortec L31 block and the starter that applies to that block ... I had to get that starter to match the bolt pattern to the block.
If that isn't the case, you need a 168-tooth flexplate.
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From: Harvest, AL
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 396 BBC
Transmission: Turbo 400
Axle/Gears: Moser 9 inch/4.56 gears
I'm with you five7kid----he may not be aware that the starter for the L98 will bolt up. At this point (I'm assuming the motor is in the car since you're trying to start it up) it's easier to replace a starter than the flywheel. Oh, and to answer the question about shimming, No it cannot be shimmed to work. If anything, a shim will move the starter away form the flywheel even more.
boo
boo
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by booboosean
I'm with you five7kid----he may not be aware that the starter for the L98 will bolt up. At this point (I'm assuming the motor is in the car since you're trying to start it up) it's easier to replace a starter than the flywheel. Oh, and to answer the question about shimming, No it cannot be shimmed to work. If anything, a shim will move the starter away form the flywheel even more.
boo
I'm with you five7kid----he may not be aware that the starter for the L98 will bolt up. At this point (I'm assuming the motor is in the car since you're trying to start it up) it's easier to replace a starter than the flywheel. Oh, and to answer the question about shimming, No it cannot be shimmed to work. If anything, a shim will move the starter away form the flywheel even more.
boo
Thanks,
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
If there are three starter mount bolt holes in the block's starter mount pad, an L98 starter will work.
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by five7kid
If there are three starter mount bolt holes in the block's starter mount pad, an L98 starter will work.
If there are three starter mount bolt holes in the block's starter mount pad, an L98 starter will work.
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From: Harvest, AL
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 396 BBC
Transmission: Turbo 400
Axle/Gears: Moser 9 inch/4.56 gears
I've had several small blocks and big blocks that had staggered bolt pattern starters and all of them had a third hole that would take an in-line bolt pattern starter. This is just from my experience and it may be coincindental. Let us know if you have a block that will only take a staggered bolt pattern starter (it's good to know these things). From what I understand, a staggered bolt pattern starter will only work on a 168 tooth flywheel (I'm sure someone will let me know if this is incorrect).
If it will take an in-line bolt pattern, you're in luck. As I'm sure you already know, you can get an in-line starter for both the 153 and 168. Hope you don't have to pull the motor just to change the flywheel------that sounds like something that would happen to me.
boo
If it will take an in-line bolt pattern, you're in luck. As I'm sure you already know, you can get an in-line starter for both the 153 and 168. Hope you don't have to pull the motor just to change the flywheel------that sounds like something that would happen to me.
boo
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by booboosean
I've had several small blocks and big blocks that had staggered bolt pattern starters and all of them had a third hole that would take an in-line bolt pattern starter. This is just from my experience and it may be coincindental. Let us know if you have a block that will only take a staggered bolt pattern starter (it's good to know these things). From what I understand, a staggered bolt pattern starter will only work on a 168 tooth flywheel (I'm sure someone will let me know if this is incorrect).
If it will take an in-line bolt pattern, you're in luck. As I'm sure you already know, you can get an in-line starter for both the 153 and 168. Hope you don't have to pull the motor just to change the flywheel------that sounds like something that would happen to me.
boo
I've had several small blocks and big blocks that had staggered bolt pattern starters and all of them had a third hole that would take an in-line bolt pattern starter. This is just from my experience and it may be coincindental. Let us know if you have a block that will only take a staggered bolt pattern starter (it's good to know these things). From what I understand, a staggered bolt pattern starter will only work on a 168 tooth flywheel (I'm sure someone will let me know if this is incorrect).
If it will take an in-line bolt pattern, you're in luck. As I'm sure you already know, you can get an in-line starter for both the 153 and 168. Hope you don't have to pull the motor just to change the flywheel------that sounds like something that would happen to me.
boo
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If your block has only 2 holes, then you have no option other than using the 14" flex plate.
The inboard hole of the 2-hole pattern, being farther outboard than the one you need, would go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE of a starter drive in the correct place to mate with the 12.8" flex plate. So unless you know of a way to make a bolt with about a 1/2" offset in it (I sure don't, but then I'm sofakingdom, I don't know much of anything anyway except what I can see), there's NO POSSIBLE WAY for a starter to exist, that will work with a 12.8" flex plate and bolt up with the 2-bolt-hole pattern.
The inboard hole of the 2-hole pattern, being farther outboard than the one you need, would go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE of a starter drive in the correct place to mate with the 12.8" flex plate. So unless you know of a way to make a bolt with about a 1/2" offset in it (I sure don't, but then I'm sofakingdom, I don't know much of anything anyway except what I can see), there's NO POSSIBLE WAY for a starter to exist, that will work with a 12.8" flex plate and bolt up with the 2-bolt-hole pattern.
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by sofakingdom
If your block has only 2 holes, then you have no option other than using the 14" flex plate.
The inboard hole of the 2-hole pattern, being farther outboard than the one you need, would go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE of a starter drive in the correct place to mate with the 12.8" flex plate. So unless you know of a way to make a bolt with about a 1/2" offset in it (I sure don't, but then I'm sofakingdom, I don't know much of anything anyway except what I can see), there's NO POSSIBLE WAY for a starter to exist, that will work with a 12.8" flex plate and bolt up with the 2-bolt-hole pattern.
If your block has only 2 holes, then you have no option other than using the 14" flex plate.
The inboard hole of the 2-hole pattern, being farther outboard than the one you need, would go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE of a starter drive in the correct place to mate with the 12.8" flex plate. So unless you know of a way to make a bolt with about a 1/2" offset in it (I sure don't, but then I'm sofakingdom, I don't know much of anything anyway except what I can see), there's NO POSSIBLE WAY for a starter to exist, that will work with a 12.8" flex plate and bolt up with the 2-bolt-hole pattern.
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Could always drill and tap the block to fit a parallel bolt pattern, like I did.
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From: Harvest, AL
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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Ouch!! For $260.00 I would have to take the motor or trans out and change the flywheel. Well at least you have a couple of opitons, although neither one is very easy/good. Good luck.
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by booboosean
Ouch!! For $260.00 I would have to take the motor or trans out and change the flywheel. Well at least you have a couple of opitons, although neither one is very easy/good. Good luck.
Ouch!! For $260.00 I would have to take the motor or trans out and change the flywheel. Well at least you have a couple of opitons, although neither one is very easy/good. Good luck.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
$260 shouldn't all be charged to "fixing" the issue with the block mount. You're getting a better design starter in the process.
Still seems wierd that the block doesn't have the proper bolt provisions. Are you sure it's a real L31 block?
Still seems wierd that the block doesn't have the proper bolt provisions. Are you sure it's a real L31 block?
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From: Elgin, IL
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Couldn't this problem have been avoided if you had checked the starter on the engine while it was out of the car? That's what I did when I put my motor together to make sure my starter would work with my flexplate. Hindsight is always 20-20 though I suppose.
High-quality ministarters are definitely nice to have though.
High-quality ministarters are definitely nice to have though.
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Could always drill and tap the block to fit a parallel bolt pattern
And, changing out the flex plate, is not really that hard; you put 2 long (like 6") bolts in 1 of the holes on each side, support the trans with a trans jack or something, take all the other bolts out, slide the trans back, and use a long box wrench to get to the flex plate bolts. Thread Starter
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by sofakingdom
I shouldn't have said that the larger flex plate is the "only" option, because there is that one. That's what I have usually done in this situation too. What I should have said was, that getting the right flex plate is the only option as long as there's only 2 holes in the block.
And, changing out the flex plate, is not really that hard; you put 2 long (like 6") bolts in 1 of the holes on each side, support the trans with a trans jack or something, take all the other bolts out, slide the trans back, and use a long box wrench to get to the flex plate bolts.
I shouldn't have said that the larger flex plate is the "only" option, because there is that one. That's what I have usually done in this situation too. What I should have said was, that getting the right flex plate is the only option as long as there's only 2 holes in the block.
And, changing out the flex plate, is not really that hard; you put 2 long (like 6") bolts in 1 of the holes on each side, support the trans with a trans jack or something, take all the other bolts out, slide the trans back, and use a long box wrench to get to the flex plate bolts.
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by vortec77
Hey Duron your right I should have checked and made sure, But its my first engine im doing pretty much by myself so this will be one of my first mistakes with my first engine swap.You know what they say "experience is the best teacher". Five7kid, I am positive it is an L31 block, I work at a dealership where they pulled the motor out of a 2000 pick up truck, it was a town help truck. Sofaking, I could the flexplate swap but its getting cold outside and the car is outside for now unfortunately. Guess ill just wait to save up some green for the starter. Besides, Just like five7kid said, Im getting a better designed starter anyway
Hey Duron your right I should have checked and made sure, But its my first engine im doing pretty much by myself so this will be one of my first mistakes with my first engine swap.You know what they say "experience is the best teacher". Five7kid, I am positive it is an L31 block, I work at a dealership where they pulled the motor out of a 2000 pick up truck, it was a town help truck. Sofaking, I could the flexplate swap but its getting cold outside and the car is outside for now unfortunately. Guess ill just wait to save up some green for the starter. Besides, Just like five7kid said, Im getting a better designed starter anyway
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From: LONG ISLAND , NY
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 2000 TPI 5.7L vortec L31
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ljnowell
If you can get the right flexplate, why not just change it, its certainly not something that requires the pulling of the engine.
If you can get the right flexplate, why not just change it, its certainly not something that requires the pulling of the engine.
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