This came directly from a friend who worked for Pro Fab and made the good parts some of you people got from them. He was reading about the fitment problems people have had with there Hawks K members and said "this is kinda funny these k-members are giving them the same probs as Pro Fabs, you should tell em to loosen all the bolts slide it back as far as they can and grind a little off the tie rod end; And do NOT cut the k-member for clearance!!!! I think that if hawks would use a thcker wall tubing but a little smaller od than 1 1/2 this would solve all there problems. This guy is good at his job had to do a ton of repairs on shoddy K members that other people sent out. Pro Fab had the ability to be one hell of a suspension shop, the owner was very knowledgable and a decently easy to work with, it just got ran into the ground by bad buisness decisions and employee choices.

 

The only problem I had with installing my ProFab K- member was on the driver side right at the front where it mounts to the frame. I had to cut a bit of the corner off to get it into place.

Now fitting my "large" tube headers with a BBC was another story. I dented a few pipes to clear the k-member but it was still easier than trying to fit the pipes with a factory k-member.

It's going to be hard to fabricate a custom piece that fits 100% of all the vehicles and combinations out there. Too many people think every aftermarket part they buy is a direct bolt on. I don't think I have anything on my car that's considered a direct bolt on. If some modifications are not required, it must be a factory part.

 

The issue with my Hawks K-Member was on the passenger side.

The front support tube was hitting the tie-rod. I looked at it for awhile, and found that it just the design of the k-member. Unless I cut it up, and redid the angle where the support pipe connects to the passenger side sprint perch, there was nothing I could do.

So i just flipped over the drag link.



If you look at this image, towards teh back of the k-member there is a couple of flat spots. This is what keeps you from sliding the K-Member back to correct the problem. So its either take a BFH to the underside of your car. Cut up the K-member, or flip the drag link.

I choose the drag link.