five7kid, please help.
After looking at rebuilt-auto-engines.com, it looks like they have great deals on their 350's. But when I look at their 383's they are significantly more expensive. I would like to have some serious power, and on another post I read that if you want above 350 rwhp, you should go with bigger than a 350. I also want to remain small block(for now), so that leaves me with a 383 or 400. I really don't know enough about 400's and their power potential part "interchangability".

Could you tell me a little about 400's power potential (as far as bang for the buck) aswell as part interchangability/price of parts?
And what would you recommend for the swap a 383, 400, or something else and where should I get it from?

 

I was thinking about getting this motor as a short block and putting better flowing heads on it. It comes with a 4 bolt main,flat top pistons and a mildly upgraded cam. The compression varies a little according to the heads they put on 72cc or76cc. 90-9.5. The economically priced vortecs would cause to much compression I think. You have no info on your car as the year or exhaust unless I missed it. This engine is a 1 peice seal. Not enough power for you as I'm understanding your post. five 7 is a wealth of knowledge and has helped me tremendously but I beleave it is poor protocal to single him out as a sole source. Good luck.

 

Your right it would be foolish of me to just want his input, the more input I get the better. My car is an 89 RS 305 tpi 700r4 10 bolt rear.

 

I meant to say 2 piece rear main seal.

 

The 383's cost more because the block and rods have to be clearanced for the longer non stock stroke.
Its all done by hand. The crank has to be rebalanced as this is a non stock build. They may/ probabily use a new crank like a scat crank as opposed to a reground crank.

There is simply more work involved.