Need Thirdgen Member Help On 406 Block
#1
Need Thirdgen Member Help On 406 Block
I recently got a 400, thought it was a 4 bolt, but after getting into it found it had 2 bolt main caps. The year is 70-73. I had another thread and the great members here helped me through getting the pistons knocked out. Since then it has been hot tanked and mag wrapped to check for cracks. Everythings great!
This brings me to where i need help. I am trying to decide if i should use the stock crank and rods. Napa says it can only handle up to 400 hp with these stock low end parts? Is that true. I dont know if i want to invest the money in fordged crank and rods. The reason why is that i dont know if a 400 block can handle all the hp potential that the fordged parts will give me. If i invest in these parts, is it likely the block wont hold?
After answering these questions, If anyone has any suggestions on what kind of pistons to buy, (.30 over) or have a tip on any kind of kits to check out please let me know.
Thanks to all the members who are helping me out!
This brings me to where i need help. I am trying to decide if i should use the stock crank and rods. Napa says it can only handle up to 400 hp with these stock low end parts? Is that true. I dont know if i want to invest the money in fordged crank and rods. The reason why is that i dont know if a 400 block can handle all the hp potential that the fordged parts will give me. If i invest in these parts, is it likely the block wont hold?
After answering these questions, If anyone has any suggestions on what kind of pistons to buy, (.30 over) or have a tip on any kind of kits to check out please let me know.
Thanks to all the members who are helping me out!
#2
Re: Need Thirdgen Member Help On 406 Block
Originally posted by 86irocboss
I recently got a 400, thought it was a 4 bolt, but after getting into it found it had 2 bolt main caps. The year is 70-73. I had another thread and the great members here helped me through getting the pistons knocked out. Since then it has been hot tanked and mag wrapped to check for cracks. Everythings great!
This brings me to where i need help. I am trying to decide if i should use the stock crank and rods. Napa says it can only handle up to 400 hp with these stock low end parts? Is that true. I dont know if i want to invest the money in fordged crank and rods. The reason why is that i dont know if a 400 block can handle all the hp potential that the fordged parts will give me. If i invest in these parts, is it likely the block wont hold?
After answering these questions, If anyone has any suggestions on what kind of pistons to buy, (.30 over) or have a tip on any kind of kits to check out please let me know.
Thanks to all the members who are helping me out!
I recently got a 400, thought it was a 4 bolt, but after getting into it found it had 2 bolt main caps. The year is 70-73. I had another thread and the great members here helped me through getting the pistons knocked out. Since then it has been hot tanked and mag wrapped to check for cracks. Everythings great!
This brings me to where i need help. I am trying to decide if i should use the stock crank and rods. Napa says it can only handle up to 400 hp with these stock low end parts? Is that true. I dont know if i want to invest the money in fordged crank and rods. The reason why is that i dont know if a 400 block can handle all the hp potential that the fordged parts will give me. If i invest in these parts, is it likely the block wont hold?
After answering these questions, If anyone has any suggestions on what kind of pistons to buy, (.30 over) or have a tip on any kind of kits to check out please let me know.
Thanks to all the members who are helping me out!
#3
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Car: 1981 Camaro; 1986 Z28
Engine: LT1; LT1
Transmission: 6 speed; 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73; 3.42
what he said The 400 is great torque motor and will not handle the high rpm's unless it is built properly. There is nothing wrong with using the stock peices as long as they check out ok. Personally, I would at least use forged pistons. This will give you some added protection for some future upgrades, but you don't have to.
A buddy of mine had a 406 in his 89 S10 Blazer with a mild cam and an RPM air gap and ran 12.9 in the quarter. Needless to say, if a barndoor can go 12's with a very mild 406, anything can.
A buddy of mine had a 406 in his 89 S10 Blazer with a mild cam and an RPM air gap and ran 12.9 in the quarter. Needless to say, if a barndoor can go 12's with a very mild 406, anything can.
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Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
Engine: 468 BB,still in the build process
Transmission: TH350,3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" Ford,learning how to live under
Stock crank will hold up well.I'm pushing mine well beyond reasonable limits,but so far so good.Go with forged pistons and good aftermarket rods and you should be able to make all the power you want,given your not building some twin turbo monster or something of that nature.The trick to making the stock cast crank live in high HP apps is a light and well balanced rotating assembly.
Ive cranked out 585 HP at the rear wheels on a nitrous dyno pass,and lived to tell about it.While I don't reccomend that kind of stupidity,it does say something for the "junk cast crank"
Ive cranked out 585 HP at the rear wheels on a nitrous dyno pass,and lived to tell about it.While I don't reccomend that kind of stupidity,it does say something for the "junk cast crank"
#5
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Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73 12 bolt with Brute Strength
The SCAT cast steel 400 cranks are a nice alternative. A shade over $200 and they can be purchased internally balanced. A real plus if your going to do a T56 six speed swap as externally balanced flywheels for this application are priced out of this world.
#6
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Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 406 in progress
Transmission: th350
on that same token, if your going to buy a new crank, you can get a forged one for $289, its forged 4130, not 4340, but still is gonna hold up a hell of a lot better than a cast. Check ebay for Hawks forged cranks.
#7
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
If you can find an aftermarket cast or forged crank for a price like mentioned here, i'd jump all over it. Figured $100+ on turning your stock crank, so if you only have to spend $100 MORE to get a higher quality one, go for it.
Forged rods are cheap now, check ohio crankshaft for some nice deals there. (hmm, I wonder if they'd have a crankshaft for ya too... )
I think hyper pistons would be ok, but hey, depends on what power level you're after.
You've probably already heard, but in case not; go for arp studs in that block. better then a 4 bolt setup.
what are your power / driveability goals?
Forged rods are cheap now, check ohio crankshaft for some nice deals there. (hmm, I wonder if they'd have a crankshaft for ya too... )
I think hyper pistons would be ok, but hey, depends on what power level you're after.
You've probably already heard, but in case not; go for arp studs in that block. better then a 4 bolt setup.
what are your power / driveability goals?
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