Hello all. I have somewhat completed the impossible. I have converted a 1987 Camaro RS 2.8 Automatic into a 355 TPI 5 Speed. Yes, yes, it took me 5 years but it's better late than never, right? Maybe not. WHY DID I DO IT YOU ASK? Well that's easy to answer: 1) I'm crazy; 2) I'm not a quitter; 3) I don't really appreciate the value of a dollar; and 4) I can't wait to see the look on the Smog guy's face when I try to get it smogged (I live in Los Angeles, California).

The engine a 355 and is top rate. It's got all of its smog components as well as the following:

1 A complete Edlebrock TPI Intake induction system (aluminum TPI Performer center-bolt heads; Performer TPI manifold; 1000CFM-58mm Throttle Body; and HI-FLO Runners).

2 30 pound Accels injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

3 Complete Edlebrock Exhaust (3" tubular exhaust including tubular headers; and cat-back system).

4 The cam is a Crower Special Grind Roller with: 213/221 @.50, Lobe Sep at 114, with .506/.525 advertised lift.

5 Pistons are forged ultra light weight flat tops by Diamond Pistons; they have low friction Diamond rings; Forged Crower I-Beam Connecting rods; Crower 1.5:1 Roller Rockers; and a Forged Scat knife-edged crank (one-piece rear main seal). The compression is at or about 10.1:1.

6 The differential is the old peg leg from the V-6. YES, yes I know, I will be changing it soon - but right now it's got 3.73:1 Richmond Gears.

7 Everything (except for the cam - but it’s mild and they’ll never know what it is) has a CARB number so I’m hoping that I could get it smogged.

Anyway, I got a custom chip burned from FastChip.com. The guy who did it went on and on about how crappy my Accel 30# injectors are and that I'll have problems and that I should have bought Ford injectors, Bla Bla Bla. So before he agreed to charge me $350 to do the chip, he gave me a warning that it may run either rich or lean because of those injectors on account of how crappy they are - Bla Bla.

Having no choice, I said do it. Got the chip, put it in and the car started right up, didn't stall, ran - ALL WAS AND IS GOOD. I drove it a good 20 miles without any problems; although the idle seemed a bit high - it's supposed to be around 850 but felt higher. I couldn't be sure what it was because the tack is from the old V-6 and it was reading too high.

The only problem is that it does run a bit rich (black smoke spews out of the tail pipes when I press the gas - that means it’s rich right?) and I get an error code, I believe it's 36. Something about Mass Airflow Burn Off Circuit malfunction. What could be causing this, is it a vacuum leak, or is it the MASS Air Sensor? My mechanic at RODZ told me that the sensor should be OK, so any thoughts?

Also, what type of HP do you guys think this thing's gonna make once it's keyed in? I currently drive a '03 Z06 and would like this car to be faster after all the hell it's put me through.

Finally, can dial in the right fuel air mixture without a dyno tune? Does anyone have any suggestions for me with regard to anything? ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

Thanks.

 

Does the "tuner" have credibility? I would wonder as the first thing he did was rag your parts. I don't have my book out but will share what I know from rich and onery. First it was rich...dont think it ran bad but was throwing a code for MAF or some dang thing. I replaced the O2 sensor...what the heck only 20 bucks, no change. I looked around under the hood and the connector was off the MAF, life was good again. Then things really got bad maybe a couple of months later. Symptoms were the same with the addition of it running well for 1/4 mile or so then falling on its face, did not want to move until I punched it hard, then it was "better" until time to stop and go again. On the highway liveable but trash. I replaced the MAF, prob because I did not completely understand the codes and got no change other than a spare MAF. I asked the question on here and it was suggested that I check the TPS, I did and life is good again. I have not had a burnoff relay problem but my understanding is that the price is only ten or so bucks. Prob not a lot of help but maybe it will get some info from the others that know a ton more than me.
Now where did that Honda go?

 

Monday I contacted Fastchip. They told me that all I have to do to get the fuel mixture right, or very close, is do a "block learn." What's that, you say. Well, he wants me to take the car back to my shop and have them drive it under different conditions while connected to a scan tool. They're supposed to drive it at different speeds and RPMs and record the readings accordingly. Then, I'm supposed to send the readings and the Prom back to Fastchip and they'll make the necessary adjustments.

VUALLA! It's kind of like a home-dyno-tune without the dyno.

I have to say, my hat's off to Fastchip. All the way from Oklahoma they burned me a Prom that works without even seeing the car. Before I had their Prom, the car was running like you wouldn't believe. It wouldn't stay on, it would keep dying; I wasn't supposed to drive it and I didn't. I thought my shop was lying to me when they said that all I need was a Prom tune. I thought that their's no way a tune is going to fix what's wrong with this thing.

But after I got their Prom - NIGHT AND DAY! It's amazing how much that computer controls everything. It was a totally different car.

As for the burn-off code, I don't think it's a big deal. Like you said, It'll probably cost me a couple of bucks to change out a relay.