Motor had broke-in cycle, Now the some questions
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Motor had broke-in cycle, Now the some questions
Finally got my new 383 properly broke-in. I had an old mechanic set the floats and idle screws for me. Still a few problems.
Has anyone used the Holley Bracket (700-r4) on a demon and had problems with it?
Mine doesn't seem to want to go to full throttle. We've narrowed it down to the TV cable being to short in adjustment length. I have a FI cable on there right now. I do have a carb cable that I plan putting on. Also my throttle cable is to long, so I plan on replacing that. The bracket also seems to move around since I can't use the ear piece to hold it being it's a demon carb not a holley.
Has anyone ever put a weld on the underside so it can not turn?
The mechanic said I should just drill a new hole in the bracket and make the cable work. I really don't want to mess rigging it cause it's critical to transmission pressure.
Also my timing seems to be very jumpy. I'm running a billet MSD distributor and 6AL box with blaster 2 coil. At idle with the sensor on #1 we were showing 50* of timing at 0* TDC mark on the balancer with my Snap-on adjustable dial light. Obviously this can't be right. Is it possible the light is just bad or the MSD box is messing with the signal? The mechanic thought it might be because of the multispark under 3000 RPMs from the box was messing up the light strobe.
I was told it would be ok to put a few more heat cycles on it with the car just sitting in the garage. But I rather wait till I know I've getting proper TV pressure to the 700-r4.
So let's hear the advise. I'm all for free
Has anyone used the Holley Bracket (700-r4) on a demon and had problems with it?
Mine doesn't seem to want to go to full throttle. We've narrowed it down to the TV cable being to short in adjustment length. I have a FI cable on there right now. I do have a carb cable that I plan putting on. Also my throttle cable is to long, so I plan on replacing that. The bracket also seems to move around since I can't use the ear piece to hold it being it's a demon carb not a holley.
Has anyone ever put a weld on the underside so it can not turn?
The mechanic said I should just drill a new hole in the bracket and make the cable work. I really don't want to mess rigging it cause it's critical to transmission pressure.
Also my timing seems to be very jumpy. I'm running a billet MSD distributor and 6AL box with blaster 2 coil. At idle with the sensor on #1 we were showing 50* of timing at 0* TDC mark on the balancer with my Snap-on adjustable dial light. Obviously this can't be right. Is it possible the light is just bad or the MSD box is messing with the signal? The mechanic thought it might be because of the multispark under 3000 RPMs from the box was messing up the light strobe.
I was told it would be ok to put a few more heat cycles on it with the car just sitting in the garage. But I rather wait till I know I've getting proper TV pressure to the 700-r4.
So let's hear the advise. I'm all for free
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
After further research I have found MSD Tech Forums they only recommend the cheap timing lights or their brand. They do not recommend any that have advance dials or digital outputs. The reason: They say these can give high initial timing readings due to the multispark messing with the gun. Supposedly the old school point and pull the the trigger type with no frills work better. From the looks I'm not the only one that's bitching about extremely high initial timing. People on their forum are also reporting 30+* to 60* initial timing with the dial lights.
Also I would like to point out that they say this high timing could also be caused by being 1 pole off the distributor or having the MSD box pickup wire reverse. Supposedly the wire connector can go on either way and if you flip it and mismatch the wires it will give extremely high timing values.
I've also put an '84 Camaro 4 bbl throttle cable on order along with the kickdown seal, as I already have a carb TV cable I bought a few years back for this purpose.
So hopefully I'll beable to put a few more heat cycles on the motor next week.
I think the mechanic has decided vacuum advance on the distributor might not work properly with the camshaft (XR280R, .570 gross lifts and 280/286 advertised duration). He said he could convert my distributor over to totally mechanical advance since MSD includes all the additionals parts.
Also I would like to point out that they say this high timing could also be caused by being 1 pole off the distributor or having the MSD box pickup wire reverse. Supposedly the wire connector can go on either way and if you flip it and mismatch the wires it will give extremely high timing values.
I've also put an '84 Camaro 4 bbl throttle cable on order along with the kickdown seal, as I already have a carb TV cable I bought a few years back for this purpose.
So hopefully I'll beable to put a few more heat cycles on the motor next week.
I think the mechanic has decided vacuum advance on the distributor might not work properly with the camshaft (XR280R, .570 gross lifts and 280/286 advertised duration). He said he could convert my distributor over to totally mechanical advance since MSD includes all the additionals parts.
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