GOT MY LT1 SWAP RUNNING
GOT MY LT1 SWAP RUNNING
She runs rough but she started right up on the first try. Just wanted to share some pictures of the swap.
Just a few tid bits, 96' LT1 stroked with LT4 conversion, vette accesory bracket,SLP 1 5/8" shorty headers,all new steering including flaming river steering shaft, Vette mini starter, T56 with centerforce flywheel and clutch.
Auto meter C2 guages including air/fuel ratio and fuel pressure.
As soon as I can get her down to the muffler shop to get the Y pipe fitted & welded in I can address the rough running condition.
Just a few tid bits, 96' LT1 stroked with LT4 conversion, vette accesory bracket,SLP 1 5/8" shorty headers,all new steering including flaming river steering shaft, Vette mini starter, T56 with centerforce flywheel and clutch.
Auto meter C2 guages including air/fuel ratio and fuel pressure.
As soon as I can get her down to the muffler shop to get the Y pipe fitted & welded in I can address the rough running condition.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 686
Likes: 2
From: Davisburg, MI
Car: 87 Evoluzione, 84 TransAm, 05 GTO
Engine: LT1, L98, LS2
Transmission: (2) T56 & (1) 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt w/3.73 & Stock
That is truely beautiful. I'm definately not posting any pictures of my ugly mess. What wiring harness did you use to mount the PCM on the driver's side?
I used a 96' Vette harness. I figured I would use the drivers side mount to cover up the main harness going into the firewall. The wrecking yard that sold me the Vette accessories game me a great deal.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 686
Likes: 2
From: Davisburg, MI
Car: 87 Evoluzione, 84 TransAm, 05 GTO
Engine: LT1, L98, LS2
Transmission: (2) T56 & (1) 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt w/3.73 & Stock
One more question if you don't mind. I've always wondered whether to get the carburator strut tower brace or the TPI one with the low slung LT1 intake. What brace are you using?
I am pretty sure the strut tower brace is for a TPI set up. I believe the difference is one is higher.
I will have to check on the fuel rail cover I can't find the place right now. The guy was great and there products are good quality. I got the fuel rail covers, opti spark cover, trottle cover and map sensoer cover from him. I will pull the recipt and let you know.
I will have to check on the fuel rail cover I can't find the place right now. The guy was great and there products are good quality. I got the fuel rail covers, opti spark cover, trottle cover and map sensoer cover from him. I will pull the recipt and let you know.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 499
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From: Schaumburg, Il
Car: 1987 Trans am
Engine: Cammin Ls1
Transmission: Th400 w/brake 5500 stall
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/ 4.11's
That looks awsome. I love the fuel rail covers painted like that, very clean looking.
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 2
From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
that looks absolutely sweet! Cool idea with where you mounted the PCM and painting it and the MSD box white. That STB does look lower than a TPI one would be, I was also trying to figure out if it was designed for a carbed 3rd gen.
How much did you get the vette brackets for? can you post more pictures of them? I like that arrangement better than the 4th gen LT1 brackets... the alternator looks a bit lower and I like that there is a place to mount the power steering resevoir on the brackets.
How much did you get the vette brackets for? can you post more pictures of them? I like that arrangement better than the 4th gen LT1 brackets... the alternator looks a bit lower and I like that there is a place to mount the power steering resevoir on the brackets.
Last edited by JeremyNYR; Oct 18, 2006 at 07:09 PM.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 920
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From: AL,USA
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 95 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Weak 7.5 with 4.10s
Your swap looks great, it makes mine look nasty. What is that on the drivers side with the breather on it. Is it a smog pump? How are you going to run your A/C lines?
Yes that is the smog pump wtih the breather on it, it is actually one from an LS1 engine due to smaller size and easier mounting bracket.
A/C is going to be stock and I believe I can use lines from an 86 or 87 due to the drivers side mounting and just have the hose shop switch the compressor mounts. Staying with R12.
I don't think the ad ever said which application the strut tower brace was for I was just happy to find one already chromed. I took out the single hood light and added LED's into the strut tower brace. Turned out pretty nice.
I added two more pics of the Vette Accessories one from the top and one of the bottom.
I also added a picture of the outside of the car so the fuel rail 3d checkers make a bit more sense.
A/C is going to be stock and I believe I can use lines from an 86 or 87 due to the drivers side mounting and just have the hose shop switch the compressor mounts. Staying with R12.
I don't think the ad ever said which application the strut tower brace was for I was just happy to find one already chromed. I took out the single hood light and added LED's into the strut tower brace. Turned out pretty nice.
I added two more pics of the Vette Accessories one from the top and one of the bottom.
I also added a picture of the outside of the car so the fuel rail 3d checkers make a bit more sense.
Not sure why it's running rough, with the y pipe not being on I'm sure the o2 snesors are out of wack. I have to re-do the head bolts thanks to the moron that rebuilt the motor for me not sealing the head bolts. Once that is done I will start in on the rugh run. Luckily it is showing codes so hopefully I can trace it that way.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 920
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From: AL,USA
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 95 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Weak 7.5 with 4.10s
I ordered all new lines and fittings from hotrodair.com. They also had the proper hose block for our setups. Checkout the pics I have on cardomain and you can see how I did mine. I can get you all the part numbers if you want. Isn't the vette compressor designed for R134a. I don't know if that matters. The y pipe being off will make the O2s read erratic. Mine was real choppy without it, but it sounded mean.
Last edited by bingo; Oct 19, 2006 at 09:44 AM.
Cool I sent you a message regarding the A/C lines. Based on my understanding the Vette compressor is designed for 134a wich makes it great for use on an R12 system. Becasue it is designed to handle the higher 134a pressures it can handle the R12 pressures with ease and should last a long time. Just have to be sure there is no PAG oil in the compressor and to use the correct mineral oil for R12.
I will have to check on the fuel rail cover I can't find the place right now. The guy was great and there products are good quality. I got the fuel rail covers, opti spark cover, trottle cover and map sensoer cover from him. I will pull the recipt and let you know.
Thanks!
Chris
Sorry, I go to shcool right after work and totally forgot I will stick a post it to my forhead and get this website for you tonight. You they come in a few color choices I believe. I origainlly got them in black put a checker sticker on it and pained it white and then removed the sticker but the clear coat I used was cheap and it cracked. They are now powdercoated white and I cut the pattern out of sheet metal with a dremel and added threded spacers for the 3D effect.
The finish on the covers from the vendor is nice same kind of process they use for the red & blue AN fittings. I believe he even has nice pre done trim pieces that you can add to the covers.
The finish on the covers from the vendor is nice same kind of process they use for the red & blue AN fittings. I believe he even has nice pre done trim pieces that you can add to the covers.
Just to follow up the company I got the nice covers from appears to be out of business. It was Domain Name Renewal and web hosting from Network Solutions
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 686
Likes: 2
From: Davisburg, MI
Car: 87 Evoluzione, 84 TransAm, 05 GTO
Engine: LT1, L98, LS2
Transmission: (2) T56 & (1) 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt w/3.73 & Stock
Thanks for the update anyway. I saved your first picture as a goal for my project. Been working on my daughter's 84 the past weeks hoping to get it off to the body shop so I can go back to mine.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 405
Likes: 14
From: Nawlins
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: '03 4.8 vortec
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Nice pics of swap! I am currently swapping a 95LT1 ina 86 Camaro. Im having trouble with the fuel pump relay wires how did you connect yours, and if you are using a painless harness what wires did you connect to the check engine light?
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 686
Likes: 2
From: Davisburg, MI
Car: 87 Evoluzione, 84 TransAm, 05 GTO
Engine: LT1, L98, LS2
Transmission: (2) T56 & (1) 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt w/3.73 & Stock
I used the relay from the '95 (factory harness). Just had to find the tan wire that went to the fuel pump in my 87. That moved it inside the car and provided VATS control. The Painless harness probably deleted all that on you. Not much help, but you asked what others have done.
Maybe I cant see it in those pics, but is there not a vacuum refrence on your FPR?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...pass-fuel-rail
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...pass-fuel-rail
The vacum is there it is just blended in in that picture. The overall picture you can see it just below the MSD box.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...e-over-all.jpg
I think I found part of my rough run problem, I initally had them wired correctly but I did have #2 & #8 wires hooked up backwards on the opti spark. They only got mixed up when I had to pull the intake becasue the shop that re-built my engine didn't put the oil pump drive in (nice huh). I bought $200 worth of accumulator fitting and lines so I could properly prelube the motor and the shop owner thought I was trying to rip him off for a $80 part beacsue "they would NEVER forget anyting so obvious". He did give me a "used" oil pump drive but without so much as a sorry or what can I do to make it right.
I just finsished pulling all the head bolts and sealing them as the same knuckle heads at Dyno-Flow neglected to seal them or seal them corectly so I had coolant coming out of most of them and a puddle of coolant when I pulled the valve covers. Moral of this story don't buy or have any work done at Dyno-Flow in Las Vegas NV.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...e-over-all.jpg
I think I found part of my rough run problem, I initally had them wired correctly but I did have #2 & #8 wires hooked up backwards on the opti spark. They only got mixed up when I had to pull the intake becasue the shop that re-built my engine didn't put the oil pump drive in (nice huh). I bought $200 worth of accumulator fitting and lines so I could properly prelube the motor and the shop owner thought I was trying to rip him off for a $80 part beacsue "they would NEVER forget anyting so obvious". He did give me a "used" oil pump drive but without so much as a sorry or what can I do to make it right.
I just finsished pulling all the head bolts and sealing them as the same knuckle heads at Dyno-Flow neglected to seal them or seal them corectly so I had coolant coming out of most of them and a puddle of coolant when I pulled the valve covers. Moral of this story don't buy or have any work done at Dyno-Flow in Las Vegas NV.
The vacum is there it is just blended in in that picture. The overall picture you can see it just below the MSD box.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...e-over-all.jpg
I think I found part of my rough run problem, I initally had them wired correctly but I did have #2 & #8 wires hooked up backwards on the opti spark. They only got mixed up when I had to pull the intake becasue the shop that re-built my engine didn't put the oil pump drive in (nice huh). I bought $200 worth of accumulator fitting and lines so I could properly prelube the motor and the shop owner thought I was trying to rip him off for a $80 part beacsue "they would NEVER forget anyting so obvious". He did give me a "used" oil pump drive but without so much as a sorry or what can I do to make it right.
I just finsished pulling all the head bolts and sealing them as the same knuckle heads at Dyno-Flow neglected to seal them or seal them corectly so I had coolant coming out of most of them and a puddle of coolant when I pulled the valve covers. Moral of this story don't buy or have any work done at Dyno-Flow in Las Vegas NV.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...e-over-all.jpg
I think I found part of my rough run problem, I initally had them wired correctly but I did have #2 & #8 wires hooked up backwards on the opti spark. They only got mixed up when I had to pull the intake becasue the shop that re-built my engine didn't put the oil pump drive in (nice huh). I bought $200 worth of accumulator fitting and lines so I could properly prelube the motor and the shop owner thought I was trying to rip him off for a $80 part beacsue "they would NEVER forget anyting so obvious". He did give me a "used" oil pump drive but without so much as a sorry or what can I do to make it right.
I just finsished pulling all the head bolts and sealing them as the same knuckle heads at Dyno-Flow neglected to seal them or seal them corectly so I had coolant coming out of most of them and a puddle of coolant when I pulled the valve covers. Moral of this story don't buy or have any work done at Dyno-Flow in Las Vegas NV.
Oh, I see it now, I guess I wasnt expecting it to come out of the side, but on the end like a stock piece.
That sucks they screwed up on your motor, Id be afraid on what else Id find wrong. Especialy forgetting somthing as important as a pump drive and sealer on the threads.
Good Luck with the rest of it, looks awesome!
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