vortec engine...should i buy it?
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From: north texas
Car: 1990 Trans Am
Engine: LB9 305...350 or 383 coming soon
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42
vortec engine...should i buy it?
I have a local 350 Vortec engine for sale off of a 97 yukon fairly cheap which would be replacing the 305 i have now. It has over 100k miles and has a broken crankshaft. The guy said that it was in two pieces. He said that it made a noise when it ran too. I asked him if it was still rebuildable otherwise and he said that he thought so...I would completely rebuild it from the bare block up. What do you guys think? Is it worth it?
Last edited by longhorn450; Mar 11, 2007 at 04:39 PM.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
That depends on if the block is salvagable. I'd either, pay dirt cheap for it (accessories and all? How complete?). Or see if you can get it checked first, before forking over cash. Maybe, partial down, if the machine shop says its good, then pay the rest. I wouldn't spend much on a 100k mile motor, that has possible SEVERE damage (was it idling when it broke? Or at 5000rpm?).
Buyer beware!
Buyer beware!
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: north texas
Car: 1990 Trans Am
Engine: LB9 305...350 or 383 coming soon
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42
Well the guy is not giving me a lot of info on it, i think because he doesnt know much about it. No accessories buteverything else. Im going to look at it in a couple of hours. He'll let me pull the pan but im not exactly sure what to look for in terms of salvagability..lol... and what will make it unusable... As for how it broke he said it was just from normal usage.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You don't break cranks in "normal use".
Basically assume you can salvage the heads on it, and then assume you'll need some new valves and maybe guides. Don't pay more than $100 for this engine.
Basically assume you can salvage the heads on it, and then assume you'll need some new valves and maybe guides. Don't pay more than $100 for this engine.
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iTrader: (12)
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
I'd see if he would do a down on salvagability, depending on the machine shops inspection, and payment of the rest, if it is rebuildable.
In the cylinder bores, anything deeper than .030 for an over bore, I'd pass. Unless you feel like resleeving. Cam bearing locations...Not REAL sure if they are sleevable or not. I'm betting they should be OK though.
Main bearing caps can be replaced (I think you can get new ones, it just REQUIRES machining them afterwards.
Good luck!
In the cylinder bores, anything deeper than .030 for an over bore, I'd pass. Unless you feel like resleeving. Cam bearing locations...Not REAL sure if they are sleevable or not. I'm betting they should be OK though.
Main bearing caps can be replaced (I think you can get new ones, it just REQUIRES machining them afterwards.
Good luck!
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
It makes a lot more sense to get an engine that either is in running condition, or is guaranteed rebuildable.
Last edited by five7kid; Mar 12, 2007 at 01:55 PM.
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