after lookin around...this seems totally possible?

eliminate optispark,have the intake modified for distributor,and jsut run it as an L98?

why would this work?

why wont this work?

 

nothing comes to mind immediately as to why you couldn't do that.


*edit* the only thing I can come up with is you would need to be sure to run the TPI knock sensor as I'm sure they are different.

 

Works great! I'll dig up some pics of my setup. I'm running a complete LT4 from a 1996 grand sport with a CC305 cam. Drilled the hole for the distributor, blocked off the EGR, used all of my factory 1989 TPI sensors and used my factory TPI throttle body. Got the tune from pcmforless.

Now if I can get the AC hoses made up for my LT1 Fbody accessories.....

Kevin

 

i want pix too!!!
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i would like to talk more about how you did the swap...
coolant routines accessories of witc engine you are running etc...
fieldy__666@hotmail.com

 

Hey guys, sorry that I took so long to reply.

I used the complete Grand Sport LT4 from the intake to the oil pan. I used the fuel rail from a Fbody. Bought fuel lines from Pure Choice. Removed the EGR valve and tube from the exhaust, located the distributor hole from a template I made. I bought a distributor shim from a guy on ebay.
Used my stock TPI distributor as well as my stock TPI throttle body. All of the stock TPI sensors work fine.

You can leave the optispark distributor in place or buy a block off plate with the timing mark from GMPP. (I'll look up the part number for it). This plate was included with the LT1 carb intake that I bought.

I had a Pcmforless chip burned for it..

The only problems that I had were the LT1 Fbody accessories that I already had. Everything worked fine except for the AC. I used a 1995 LT1 caprice power steering pressure hose.

I have the first LT1 intake that I did for sale. I already has the distributor hole and shim attached to it. It needs the EGR block off plates, but other than the plates, it is ready for someone to start their own TPI/LT1 hybrid. I'll list it in the Parts for sale section if no one here wants it. Just PM me.

Later, Kevin
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Forgot about the coolant lines. I think that it was the upper radiator hose from a 1995 camaro and the lower hose from a 1996 Vette, maybe the other way around....

Any other questions, please ask....


Kevin

 

witch coolant hose did you use to fit to stock 3rd gen radiator?
why you got rid of the f.i. intake and chipped pcm for a carb swap?

 

He kept the LT1 fuel injection, but used the TPI wiring and sensors. Can I get some pics also please?

 

he said(This plate was included with the LT1 carb intake that I bought.)

why did he bought that then?

 

Bingo is correct. I kept the LT1 fuel injected intake and used the TPI wiring, computer and sensors. I already had a LT1 carb intake that had the optispark blockoff plate. It has the timing mark for the harmonic balancer.

As far as hoses, I used the 1996 camaro upper and the 1996 Vette lower, or maybe it was the other way around..... I can't really remember, but a search on here will turn it up.

I would get some pics but the engine is apart and the LT1 intke with the distributor hole, the Comp Cams CC305 cam, Vette fuel rail covers, injectors and LT1 Fbody accessories are currently on the Classified boards FOR SALE.

I am trying to buy a LS1 if I can get the cash together... so go buy what you need to do the swap. Let me know if you need any other parts for the conversion to a LT1.

Later, Kevin

 

I was wondering about pics because I was wanting to do this in another car. It helps to have a a spare LT1.

 

Bingo, what do you need to know?

Kevin

 

I was just hoping to get an idea of what your setup looked like. I have done a swap in my car with the F body accessories and now with the vette accessories. Check out the link in my sig. I have a spare LT1 and the original TPI harness out of my car. I was thinking about a similar swap. I understand the technical aspect. The main question I have concerns programming. What PROM and how was it programmed. I assume it is a similar program as a mini-ram car.

 

I was still using the 198 165 ECM. PCMforless did the BIN for me. I have a Prominator, so they just emailed the bin to me and I uploaded it. I dont have a laptop anymore or I would list the differences......


Kevin

 

is there a easy way to do the timing mark on lt1 pulley with the l98 pulley???...and blockoff optispark hole?

 

still need help!!!!!!!!!!

 

I guess the question is... what's the point? You end up with a sbc with LT1 heads/intake and a crappy / expensive cam driven water pump. Wouldnt it be cheaper to just put an LT1 intake on an L98? The LT1 heads arent incredibly awesome (the alumn ones) as to warrant using the whole motor.

 

Use the LT1 harmonic balancer/pulley, then use the GM performance parts blockoff plate, http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku , that was included with the carb conversion intakes. This optispark blockoff plate has to be used with the 94 and up LT1 timing cover. The plate has the big plug cast into the back to fit into the big hole left by the opti distributor.
Have you drilled your hole for the standard distributor?

Later, Kevin

 

i use to run a 1979 355 engine with lt1 intake conversion with the thermontat housing in the fender....always overheating and the lt1 intake conversion dos not align perfect prestone leak i expérience everithing bad with this swap...nou i have a new rebuilt lt1 503 cam 26918 springs...and ported heads ready for the swap..and i have the optispark GMPP block off plate with timing mark..only proble left is hoe to run accessories? stock lt1 dont fit 8inches demper too big) and tpi one belt is in the way for coolant hoses?

 

I did get the stock TPI brackets chopped up enought to fit the LT1 water pump but I didnt feel comfortable enought o try to run the brackets.

THe stock LT1 balancer is 7.5 inches. What is in the way of running the stock LT1 balancer? It sits flush with the front of the timing cover and has the pulley grooves cut into its outer diameter.....


Kevin

 

kevin i saw your pix at car domain..you dont have a distrubutor??? ans you the alt is on driver side like the stock 1989 305 i had..but the lt1 i have is off a 1995 caprice and ac and p/s is on passenger side...and many people experiance problem using alt from a lt1 on tpi harness?

 

Hey Fox, I dont have a cardomain page . So you didnt see my car over there.
Anyway, I used the Fbody LT1 accessories. Everything was on the passenger/right side. I had to bang the kmember a little on the passenger side for the a/c compressor to fit. I used the electric AIR injection pump form a LS1 car, mounted it and the stock TPI AIR divertor valve under the battery tray. I should have taken alot of pics of the setup but now the motor is out the car again waiting for a LS1.
The LT1 alternator ran fine, I ran the BATT terminal straight to the battery and the 2 wires on the pug wires the same..... I am unaware of any Alternator problems.

Kevin

 

the lt1 demper does not have a keyway... im afraid to use the demper and do a timing mark on pulley..and spin the pulley on the crank and screw the timing??? and if one dait have to remove it and put it back with the head on engine...big problem? for the EXACT TDC? no?

by the way i don have emision test and i cut the a/c and destroy the clutch and use it as a iddler.

 

oops bingo's car sorry

 

I was worried about the lack of a keyway in the damper too, I bought one from Raceparts on eBay for $68.. NEW! It has a keyway just like the standard small block chevy.

Kevin
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Here you go, $64. Brand new on ebay. Chevy LT1 350 HP Camaro Harmonic Balancer Damper Item number: 200152101890

Kevin

 

thanks and about the coolant passages???have any pics?

 

dont understand i dont see a hub how that thing works?

 

As much as people hate to hear this, but the problems you are running into is the best reason to keep the LT1 LT1 with everything exactly like it came from the factory.

 

ok so i've been thinking of doing this exact same setup with the lt4 in my 97ta after the new motor get back and put in. So this will go in a 91 z w the t5 but whats the deal with the balance of the motor. I keep getting mixed views of the balance on the 305 thats in the car now any ideas on conflics with the swap and a t5

 

If anyone starts talking about some sort of specially "balanced" flywheel, stop listening and go ask someone else. It just takes a "normal" one-piece rear main seal 153 tooth flywheel.

 

I know a stock 153 tooth 1 piece rear main will bolt on, but your saying the stock t5 flywheel has the right balance for the ltx in all stock configuation.

 

Nothing changed with the balancing from Gen I to Gen II.

 

Are Gen I neutral balance? LT1 is a neutral balance on the front, but externally balanced on the flywheel.

 

Run an opti blockoff plate, use that damper and either mark it so you can time it, or you might be able to run a std SBC damper without the opti being there... you would have to check. But the balance is the same as the standard TPI... externally counterweighted flywheel, internal crank and neutral damper. They sell LT1 conversion intakes to run TPI. I have one on my 350, they are made by accel, but starting to get hard to find. They sold them for the superram conversions. It's a 350 LT1, uses all factory TPI components and bolts to LT1 heads. I could have used the factory TPI harness but I wanted a 4L60-E, and no MAF restrictions and I wanted to try it under sequential EFIand with no coolant going through the base.

That way, you could run it just as a TPI engine. Or you could use the LT1 stuff and run it as what I call a 'tuned port LT1' and have the benefits of both. Of course the wiring is a big PITA in my opinion. Running it with the TPI harness, the only benefits you will have is a better alternator, no opti and reverse flow cooling.

All depends on what you want

 

There is a bunch of confusion due to mixing of terms, so let's try to straighten this out:

Gen I SBC engines were all internally balanced except the 3.75" stroke 400. The 400 had a weighted damper and flexplate/flywheel to avoid using expensive dense metal in the counterbalance weights inside the crankcase. From 1955 through 1985, every SBC engine, including the 400, had a weight built into the back end of the crank, outside of the rear main bearing and seal, but in front of the flexplate/flywheel mount.

In 1986, when they switched to the one-piece rear main seal, they had to make the entire rear end of the crank round so the seal could slide over it. The external weight that used to be built into the crank was now moved to the flexplate/flywheel, and the mounting pattern was also changed. These engines are no more "externally" balanced than the previous engines, just the location of that "external" weight changed. The flexplate/flywheel may have a weight on it, but it is not the same weight that the 400 cranks needed for their external balance.

So, basically there are: 153 and 168 tooth flexplates/flywheels; there are externally balanced 400 (3.75" stroke) 2-piece RMS flexplates/flywheels; and there are 1-piece RMS flexplates/flywheels that just happen to have a little weight attached to them.

All production engines made since 1986 model year are 1-piece RMS. The flexplates/flywheels from 2-piece RMS cranks won't fit them, so don't bother asking about them. Any production 1-piece RMS flexplate/flywheel will mount to any 1986-later Gen I/Gen II crankshaft (whether it will work with your clutch/transmission is a different story).

(There are also aftermarket internally-balanced 3.75" stroke cranks out there, most of them 1-piece RMS, but we won't confuse the issue any more. They happen to use the same damper and flexplate/flywheel as 3.48" stroke engines.)

Now,
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



It's a whole lot less work and a whole lot more beneficial to just run it as an LTx engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There comes a point where you just have to realize the difference between what you can do and what you should do.

 

Cant agree with you there. It took almost no time at all running it as a TPI engine to hook it up, thanks to the intake. Now if I was running an LT1 intake that would be a different story. I've done it. I suppose it would depends on the cars setup, and not a generalized answer.

I decided to ditch the TPI electronics and run LT1. No, it's not easier... almost more custom fab required. Alot more wiring required. With the TPI is easy after you overcome the accessory dilemma. You would need an electric water pump though. Of course this realy depends, is he running a 700-R4? A T-56? Did his car have V-belts or serpentine? Is he running LT1 F or Y body accessories and does he want to keep factory A/C and power steering?

I should have made myself more clear. Running the LT1 with TPI electronics left alot to be desired, though it is possible and it was quicker. Hence, my decision to run LT1 accessories and electronics instead. But he can do it however he wants to. It's his call. I've done both and ended up taking out the TPI harness and accessories and went LT1.

 

As I stated, best thing to do, leave the LT1 as designed, that way you don't have to hack up an intake to run a distributor, buy an electric water pump etc etc. I don't know where you get more custom fab work, more wiring. You have to dent in the k-member if you want a/c, or run a 1LE pully. 8 wires and the car is running. Make up some p/s lines, no biggie. F and Y body accessories are exactly the same.

And don't give me "It's so I don't have to run an opticrap" The opti on my car has 130k miles on it and still going strong, if it ever goes out I'll buy the Accel unit to replace it with and drive it another 130-140k miles and never blink.

 

Its easy. The wiring is a pain but I used a '97 harness so that's on me... but the K-member on mine needed more than just a minor bashing to get the compressor to clear. Then there is the fab work of custom A/C lines, I made up from stockers and other parts from docsblocks. No way the stock LT1 lines would clear especially with my headers. Then there is the custom MAF mount so it just doesnt sit there and flop. P/S line wasnt exactly a bolt in either but it was alot better than the A/C, and I wasnt about to run the high side out of just hose to the other side of the engine bay. I had to mount the relay and fuse control center for the engine harness. Fab a mount for the MAP sensor since there isnt one for an LT1 type, though L98 C4's used them, I couldnt find a GM bracket. I removed the linkage from an L98 throttle body and put in on my LT1 throttle body so the cables would be plug and play, adding a second 02 sensor bung, etc...

Wasnt just plug and play. Not to the finished product.

The accessories are the same, but the fitment is far from close which required alot of the fab work. It all depends on your approach to it though. I wanted to keep as many original TPI parts as possible so it wouldnt become a hassle to track down parts later, should the need arise. No 4thgen pedals, heck even the factory 145 speedo works... as well as the VSS.

And it's not something you see everyday. You look at the TPI intake and then see the distributor blockoff plate, and it makes you go, WTF?!?

And yes I run the optispark on it and my '94 w/a vented conversion. What makes the opti go is usually a waterpump failure from the weep hole (made a custom drain to prevent that), or the spark in the cap... after awhile it plays hell with the opti components. Sometimes they come to you as crap out of the box though. My '94 runs a delteq and I couldnt be happier...runs so much better without the stock arrangement. Been like that for the last few years, and havent had one hiccup from the opti

Not sure what you meant as far as 'hacking the intake', if you meant the LT1 or...? I know the LT1 requires alot of cutting and test fitting to properly locate a distributor. That's why I didnt go that route, if I wanted to do that I would have kept the LT1 intake. I know my intake was a bolt on... the rest of the work involved was adapting the car to the new engine.

 

all the swap is done fits like a glove after i cut the rear part on a/c and destroy clutch and use it as a idler...the intake modification is done too 26918-16 beehive springs with 505 cam 1,5rr gmpp optispark block off plate...only thing left coolant pasages ???? plz help!!!

 

Im not quite sure what it is that you are asking but I'll let you know how I hooked it all up.

I hooked up all hoses to the radiator like normal, I use an LT1 radiator. I used a right angle fitting coming from the heater core to the water pump passenger outlet, and hooked up the factory oil cooler as stock as well. My TB coolant lines are bypassed with a T fitting that I plumbed the coolant crossover into. I ran the top line from the heater core into the outlet on the top of the water pump. The entire system is now sealed up, though I really havent been home enough to do some long term testing to see how I like it...

 

are you using a pressurized tank??? rad cap? any pics?

 

Been waiting to take pics and Im not at home now. All the work i've done in the engine compartment has made my car look like a$$...

I am using the stock thirdgen overflow bottle, and LT1 radiator cap. The second fitting on the radiator is the port when you hook up the lines that go to the throttle body/steam lines. For the most part the cooling system is stock...just stock LT1.

 

my engine was in a 1995 caprice soo no rad cap...im trying to installed every thing on the 1989 trans am rad...and im messed up how to plug the head return hose and the 2 small hose on water pump and to be able to run the heater rad buypass stock of a 1989 trans am

 

you would need to post pictures, I am not sure what it is that you are trying to do.

FYI I used stock LT1 hoses to the radiator. It's been awhile since my car had a thirdgen radiator in it so I cant really tell off the top of my head what you have available to hook it all up, but it sounds like you might need to look into tees...