I pulled a 350 out of the yard, besides getting it bored out, what else should I have the machine shop to do to it? I'm getting a new eagle 4340 crank 5140 Eagle I Beam rods, so no work needs to be done there. and also I'm getting new cylinder heads, so no work there either. How much should I expect to pay on it as well?

 

Have it tanked and checked for cracks and you should be good. It might also be worh your while to have the cam bearings pop'd in and freeze plugs installed if you dont have the proper tool. You should get out for under a couple hundered.

 

I have built several successful good solid engines. I am a FIRM believer that your results when building an engine are a direct function of a solid core and proper clearances/ alignment within the motor. Assess the business. Find out if they are competent in what they are doing. Theres nothing like having some 2-bit operation hose you and give you a half-assed platform to build from (true story).
With that aside... i'll try to lend you some insight from my experiences. Like SSC said, first things first, have the block washed and checked. It's good to insure that you have a quality core to start building from. If an engine was once overheated or damaged there are telltale signs that a machine shop will look for (like warpage in the deck surface for example). When I built my 355, I pulled my block out of a '74 GMC truck. I had the machine shop wash then magnaflux the block. I then had them check the main bearing/saddle alignment and deck surface for warpage. I had it bored .030 over in each bore. If it's a more "modern" machine shop they will probably install a torque plate to the deck surface when boring/ honing it. If they don't offer it with the service, ask for it. They installed cam bearings. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra money to have the machine shop install the cam bearings because this is crucial. I have seen a few new motors go south because of improperly installed cam bearings. One where a cam actually seized inside of a bearing and broke off in the block. I myself am not a machinist and would not trust myself to be able to align and install them properly. Those would be my suggestions for a street motor. Hope that I could have been some help. -Bob
Would the final assembly be performed you you or the machine shop?

 

installing cam bearings is relatively easy.. the tool is VERY helpfull but the last one is a female dog because theres no other holes to guide to a square fit.. but if the machine shop is doing all this work, just let them do it..

things i would want done to my block: (even though i do half this myself)
wash/hot tank
magnaflux(check for cracks)
align bore if needed
mill deck for straightness
install cam bearings
install main studs(if being used)
install freeze plugs
install oil galley plugs
any clearancing needed for crank(383 stroker) and/or some billet double roller timing sets

 

Final assembly will be done by myself. I took my 305 and used it as a test dummy. broke it down built it up and repeated for the past few weeks.

 

Well with the machining that I previously suggested minus the assembly costs (which you will cover) I would give an estimate of about $300 give or take. I think this is a reasonable estimate. These prices are what I remember paying for my 355 a few years ago: hot tank and magnaflux $55, bore and hone $150, cam bearings, welch (sp?) plugs and oil plugs, check deck surface and main saddles $90 (est.). Now remember this is all before heads are entered into the equation. -Bob