Buddy just got an 86 firebird(could be 85, not sure). It now has aearly 70's 350 in it and it's backed by a 700r4. Anyhow, motor runs great but the transmission will not kickdown. Would this have anything to do with the motor swap?

I know the transmission is lockup type and is partially computer controlled. Now I don't know if either would anything to do with it or not. Ive seen many of these setups yet have never heard of this happening.

Adjusting the TVcable does nothing

Edit-We know for sure the transmission did in fact kick down when it had the 305

 

What do you have for an induction system?

 

It's a holley 4 barrel. Not sure what size though. I tried telling him get a quadrajet but that was a no-go

vacuum advance is hooked up by the way. Just in case you were wondering

 

You've probably got the wrong bracketry to give you the proper TV cable geometry.

 

it's got the factory bracket on it. There's no major slack on the tv cable. It's got the same tension and is set just about exactly how my 86 grand prixs cable is. Now I know not all require the same settin. I was just mentioning that for reference.

We even pulled it out some and still no kickdown. Only difference that made was a super soft shift

 

Exactly. The factory bracket is for a Quadrajet with a 700R4-specific throttle arm, on a factory manifold. You don't have any of those things anymore.

 

So how would I go about finding the correct bracket?

I really don't understand with being the wrong bracket, what exactly is/isn't happening

 

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

They have all the parts you need on their front page.

 

so which one does he need? also, isn't there a way to just make something yourself?

Is the bracket that is on it now partially pulling the cable or what exactly happening

 

Your problem probably isn't the bracket.

Did you go to the home page and look at all the linkage pieces?

Note that the cable MUST move some specific distance from idle to WOT; and MUST move more during the first half of the throttle shaft travel, than the last half. Most carb linkage that comes on off-the-shelf carbs isn't long enough to move the stud far enough from the centerline of the shaft to sweep the stud through a long enough arc during its travel. They usually need an add-on piece.

What kind of carb is it EXACTLY? You should be able to find it that way. If it's available. It might require getting some kind of carb that has the right linkage to accommodate the right add-on piece.

 

Not sure on which holley it is exactly. I don't know Holleys so I have no way of telling

 

if its a 4150 or a 4160 series, parts 20-95 and 20-121, with proper TV readjustment will get you your double kickdown detent shifts, assuming everything else is in working order as before.

 

"4150" and "4160" is mostly useless to somebody that doesn't know Holley carbs; those numbers aren't on the carb any where, and don't tell ANYTHING about the linkage, in any case. Those are "model" numbers, which only tell in a vague way how the carb is built.

The number you need is the "list" number.

 

it isn't a 4150 or 4160 as he said "vacuum advance is hooked up by the way. Just in case you were wondering" so it is vac secondary carb. 4150 is dbl pumper and I never used the 4160 series but I think they are single feed version of the 4150 correct me if I am wrong.

 

www.holley.com

Vacuum advance has nothing to do with vacuum secondary. Manual secondary carbs have a vacuum advance connection to work the distributor, same as vac sec carbs.

4160 = square-flange 4-bbl with secondary metering plate

4150 = square-flange 4-bbl with secondary metering block

You can convert a 4160 to a 4150 by buying the metering block kit... comes with a longer transfer tube.... doesn't change the carb linkage or the number of fuel feed inlets.

Both "models" have been produced in an endless array of CFM sizes, linkage styles, choke types, and other variations. That number is USELESS as to trying to figure out what linkage piece to buy.

The number you look up things like that is the "list" number, as posted above.

AFAIK the numbers Tobias posted will work on MOST newer GM and universal carbs; not all; not older ones; and not Frod or Chrysler ones.