Hey guys... I have looked around here trying to find info on this before posting a new thread and only found so much info. Basically I just found a SBC 400 that is coming complete carb to pan with rad and tranny for 700$. I'll post up the info from the ad....

"1975 Caprice Classic with 109,000 miles, was running okay, and burning no oil, a friends uncle owned it for ever and parked it two years ago, indoors. Engine is complete from carb to pan, includes starter, good rad, and transmition. The casting number 817 are the last three digits, this is a 2 bolt block"

I plan on going to see this engine asap, but need to know what I'm looking for. This is the first swap I'll ever do and because I got so taken advantage of when I bought my z28 (due to lack of knowledge)..... I'd like to know what to look for so that this time I can say I did my homework before hand and won't run into a similar situation. Thanks very much for anyone with any help for this one.

(so you have a heads up, this was the closest article that I found towards knowing about 400 SBC's https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...75-400-sb.html )

 

Okay, I did something similar to what you are about to do. I put a 76 Caprice 400 engine in a 90 Firebird to replace the LO3 TBI engine.

1. You need to check the vin to make sure that the engine code is "U" for the 400.

2. Look at the block casting numbers, sure. I would take the numbers you find and then run them on the internet to make sure what you have. Old cars have a way of getting different engines over the years.

3. Test run/test drive. Be aware that you will be totally rebuilding this engine so make sure that your budget includes the rebuild.

If you do get a 400, do what we did. We bought the caprice, put our old 305 back in it AND THEN SOLD IT AS AN OLD CHEVY WITH A NEWER ENGINE! That will put some budget money back into your engine fund. Be sure to re-use as much of the old 400 engine parts as possible because you won't use them on your Camaro. Keep just your computer carb and distributor, and front accessory drive from the 305 to re-use later. You'll need to buy a flexplate to hook up to the automatic trans because your 400 piece is different.

400s can be finicky. I like the 2 bolt block better than the 4, so that's good. Put the heads on the scrap pile, immediately, followed quickly by the intake and exhaust manifolds, timing set an cam/lifters.

We kept the crank, rods, and block and trashed the rest. You need some decent heads; we used L98 350 TPI heads and had the steam holes from the 400 drilled into them. We also had 2.02/1.60 valves installed. We had our block bored out and then sleeved back to standard size and put stock sized pistons back in. Old chevy hot rodders advised us to do this to help with the cooling problems that 400s had due to siamesed cylinders in the block. Get a nice carb intake for 87-up sbc heads. All of the above parts can be had used at a reasonable price. Intake/head and carb selection will determine your power output, so now is the time to decide.

What power are you looking for?

After the engine is ready to go in the car, you need all of your old 305 accessories from the front of your old engine to run it and fit it properly. Don't forget to use a 400 specific flywheel or you can't hook up your T5!

 

I started my 89 Camaro back in the day with a 355cid.. a few years later I was building a 406 For it.

Edelbrock heads are a great buy for the flow and power they make. You can find a set for 1000.00 new. Or get them used for half. Performer RPM is what your looking for.. Performer RPM Intake.
Your 5spd is not going to like the torque output of the 400 for very long. You can run it till you break it but it's just a matter of time.
I ended up after breaking 4 5spds just going to a automatic. Problem solved.
Not as much fun... but less agressive on the wallet.
Anyhow.. I did not sleeve the block. Both of my 400's I had went .30 no problem and ran several years on/off the bottle at 10.60's at 132mph. Ran 11.6's on the motor both on pump gas. The cooling problem is a old wife's tale... Lol..
The more you bore it the closer to the cooling passages you actually are.

Now.. with the siameased bores you tend to egg shape the holes with power. Or "blow" them out.. as machiene guys like to call it. That's the main problem you have with that design. Unless your going for every HP you can it's not as critical... still make sure they Torque plate bore the block.. that's very critial.

I used a 5.7 rod... It's a good idea to run the longer rod IMHOP. Rods/pistonns are cheap anymore... You can run a 6" rod as well. Up to you and your wallet.
With a good allum. head... decent cam and a tight 400cid there's no reason you shouldn't be in the 11's on the motor.
~Scott

 

With a tight budget we were 12.80s in our 90 bird. We did blow a T5 as well! I now have an upgraded G-force guts T-5, but it still cost a mint. I agree with the heads, I only buy them used if I can find them. I ran L98 heads and it was awesome.