I am almost finished building my shortblock 383. I am now making plans on what parts I am going to need. I have a 305 TBI currently running in my car and everything is working. I would like to keep a serpentine belt setup. I plan on getting heads with accessory holes. Would it be possible to use my accessories from the 305 TBI (except smog and AIR) to the 383 carb?
INFO:
My 305 is an 88 TBI
The 350 block i used is a pre 87 block.
I am using a double roller timing chain, will this get in the way?
I plan to keep A/C and Power steering.
My waterpump on the 305 is new. Will this waterpump work with the pre 87 block?
Are the accessory holes on the aluminum heads i plan to use the same as the accessory holes in the original cast heads?
I plan to have a little above 400h.p.


Does anyone know if this will work or a way that it is possible to make it work?
Thanks,
Dennis

 

Everything is exactly the same.

 

Thank you very much, That is what i was thinking and hoping, but thank you for reassuring me.

What do you suggest with the debate over dropping the tank and putting in a sump versus just getting an AFPR???
I have searched and read other posts on this topic, but it seems to be a 50/50 split on what to do...

 

I've always considered a pusher electric back by the tank to a mechanical on the engine to be the premier set-up. You should use a return-style regulator after the mechanical pump and before the carb.

 

 

Can you help by explaining that a little better. I thought that I had two options.
1) Swap the pump that is in my tank with a sump setup from a carbed vehicle and run a mechanical pump from the engine.
or 2) Keep the working pump that is in my tank and put a return style FRP to lower the fuel pressure to 5-6 psi as opposed to the double digit numbers that the pump is pushing now.
What are you suggesting?

 

You can also use a return-style mechanical pump in conjunction with the in-tank pump. The regulator in the mechanical pump will still regulate down to 6-7 PSI and the return line will keep the in-tank pump from burning up. The in-tank pump will preempt any vapour-lock issues, and you won't have to drop the tank to remove the pump and install a new pickup. Best of all, a mechanical pump is about $25 instead of about $75 for the regulator. Add on $15 for a fuel pump pushrod and $7 for a mounting plate and it's still a pretty good deal.

The only cases where that wouldn't work would be if your block didn't have the fuel pump mounting provisions, or if your cam didn't have a fuel pump lobe.