Scared to turn the Key
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 5
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Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: stroked 383(soon to be complete)
Scared to turn the Key
So I have stroked out and bored a 350 to make a 383 stroker engine, it is the first engine I have ever built and I have fit it into my 92 Camaro and everything is hooked up. I have never done this before, I have put oil in the engine and I have all electrics hooked up. My question is, what are the procedures before starting a "baby" engine? and what are the break-in procedure? I have been told that you are supposed to hold it at a 2000RPMs, and then give it an oil change, and then suspend the engine at 4000 for another length of time and then test drive it for 100 miles and then give it one more oil change and your ready to go.
I have never done this before and I don't want to flood the engine with fuel right away, I dont want to burn anything out, and I dont think that this "break-in procedure" is right but i could be wrong.
I have never done this before and I don't want to flood the engine with fuel right away, I dont want to burn anything out, and I dont think that this "break-in procedure" is right but i could be wrong.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 42
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From: Panama City, Florida
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: '92 LT1
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 factory posi. disc brakes
Re: Scared to turn the Key
well, when I started my LT1 i did the whole 2k rpms thing for 20 mins watch all of my gauges(water,oil mostly) then drove for 100 mles then did an oil change. I am pretty sure I did it wrong but, the engine is still going strong.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,777
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From: Casselberry, FLA
Car: 88 V6 'bird/89TBI bird/85 T/A
Engine: 2.8/TBI/TPI
Transmission: V8 T-5/700R4 x2
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open/2.73 open/ 3.27 9 bolt
Re: Scared to turn the Key
This is another topic that everyone has a different answer for. Mine comes straight out of the Haynes repair manual...
1. Double check oil and coolant levels
2. With the spark plugs out and the ECM fuse removed, crank the engine until oil pressure registers on the gauge (you could use a pre-oiler for this)
3. Hook up the plugs, wires and ECM fuses
4. Start the engine.
5. After the engine starts, let it warm up to normal operating temperature while checking for leaks.
6. Shut off the engine. Check the fluid levels again.
The next part is to seat the rings:
7. Drive to a low traffic area. Accelerate at full throttle from 30 mph to 50 mph, then let off the throttle and allow the engine to come back to 30 mph with the throttle closed. Repeat this 10-12 times. Check again for leaks.
8. Drive gently for 500 miles with no sustained high speeds, as in city driving with short highway trips. Constantly keep checking the oil level between trips.
9. Between 500 and 600 miles, change the oil and filter.
10. For the next few hundred miles, drive the vehicle normally. Don't pamper it or abuse it.
11. After 2000 miles, consider your engine fully broken in.
Now, this is how I do it and it seems to work well for me. Others will have different opinions...
Good luck!
1. Double check oil and coolant levels
2. With the spark plugs out and the ECM fuse removed, crank the engine until oil pressure registers on the gauge (you could use a pre-oiler for this)
3. Hook up the plugs, wires and ECM fuses
4. Start the engine.
5. After the engine starts, let it warm up to normal operating temperature while checking for leaks.
6. Shut off the engine. Check the fluid levels again.
The next part is to seat the rings:
7. Drive to a low traffic area. Accelerate at full throttle from 30 mph to 50 mph, then let off the throttle and allow the engine to come back to 30 mph with the throttle closed. Repeat this 10-12 times. Check again for leaks.
8. Drive gently for 500 miles with no sustained high speeds, as in city driving with short highway trips. Constantly keep checking the oil level between trips.
9. Between 500 and 600 miles, change the oil and filter.
10. For the next few hundred miles, drive the vehicle normally. Don't pamper it or abuse it.
11. After 2000 miles, consider your engine fully broken in.
Now, this is how I do it and it seems to work well for me. Others will have different opinions...
Good luck!
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Re: Scared to turn the Key
Yes, I was just going to suggest the same... also, where did you hear about doing the break-in again at 4000rpm? I've never heard that before... I've broken in a few flat tappet cam engines - run it between 2200-2700 for about 1/2 hour, and then change the oil. No need for the 4000 rpm part.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
Likes: 171
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Scared to turn the Key
Or you have an engine like mine. Fire it up to check for leaks, break in the cam if it's a flat tappet. Go racing.
For a typical street engine, what KrisW said is close enough for a good break in procedure.
For a typical street engine, what KrisW said is close enough for a good break in procedure.
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