Hey everyone,

My new engine is about 4 days away from being ready to install in my car and I was wondering...is it worth the hassle of doing it myself or should I just have a shop in town do it?

I originally had it all lined up for a performance shop in Ogden to do the work but at the last minute, the bailed on me citing "too much work right now to fit you in" after 3 weeks of telling me "Sure, no problem".

Anyway, I have a friend who has all the tools, engine stand, and a cherry picker. That should be all thatsneeded to install the motor. Problem is, neither of us has ever done an install. He's pulled a few and I've never done either.

I know there is some wiring issues that need to be looked at and I'd like to have the chance to fix them while the motor is out.

However, would it be better for me to pay a shop to do it, that way they can do the break in and make sure everything is put together right...or should I chance doing it myself...where as I might get to fix the little things, I may screw up putting the motor in and do something bad like ruin the cam or worse?

Any input would be most helpful. Thanks!

 

Did you build the mtotr yourself? If so, then you can easily do the swap yourself. My motor build was more involved than any engine I have ever changed. If you are swapping accessories from your old motor than I would pull the old one and remove the stuff you are going to swap over after the motor is out.

Another thing to consider is if you are changing from EFI to carb or the other way around. If you are than the swap will be more involved but still doable. Two guys with any mechanical experience should be able to swap a engine in a day with out any major issues coming up. Even if there a issues to be dealt with, your friend has all the tools and hopefully the space so its not like you are paying for any rental fees for tools or shop space.

I look at it like this, if your buddy can get the motor out, and you two for some reason can get the install completed, the tow bill to the shop will still most likely be less than the shop would have charged you to pull the engine.

just my

 

No, I didn't build the motor myself, but I've been in the shop every day since he started. I wanted to see where he was going with it, I plan on hanging on to my old 305 as a "project" to play with.

Getting the old motor out isn't the problem, what I am more worried about is once the new motor is in, getting the distributor backwards or messing up the break in of the new cam and maybe ruining the cam/lifters/pushrods etc... I've never tackled a project this "large"...but if I'm following you right, you're saying to go ahead and do the install and then take it to a shop for the break in and all the initial stuff. That might not be a bad idea and I think this guy even has a trailer we might be able to use...hmm...now that's starting to sound like a good plan.

 

Well sort of. I was aying to go ahead and do the project and if you run into a problem you can't handle (doesn't sound to likely) then a shop could handle it. First off is it a roller cam or flat tappet? If it is a roller then there is no special break in fot the cam and lifters, just for the rings seating which you will have to do by driving the car anyway. All for the distributor, there are many post on here on how to do that and it really isn't hard. If the distrib is in 180 out you will know it in a hurry anyway and it is a hard fix.

If the cam is a flat tappet, the break in is really a moving target. It changes from from time to time or from person to person but basically, you start the engine and immediately bring the motor to between 2000 and 2800 rpm and keep it there between 15 and 20 minutes. You need to run a cam additive in the oil from comp or somebody and a offroad oil high in zinc and thats it.

You can do it on your own and save your money so you can just dump it back into the car!!

 

besides the wiring, its 11 bolts that hold the motor to anything else...

trans bolts: 6
flywheel to TC: 3
motor mounts: 2

simple... unless ur goin from v6 to v8, you have to change the motor mounts.

if you're changing the trans too, you have the driveshaft, and 4 or 5 bolts at the tail of the trans.

also 6 bolts/screws that go into your inspection cover, if you have it installed

 

It's a roller cam....so all I have to do is just start it and go? That's about the awsomest (is that a word?!) thing I've heard yet.

I'm pretty sure I need to switch to a steel distributer gear with the roller cam. The other thing I've found out is that none of the machine shops around town here can drill my mechanical fuel pump hole...even though the block has the mounting point for it....so I'm looking into an electric pump, hoses and adapters and regulater, yet another $300.00 I wasn't planning on. UGH!

 

electric pump, hoses and adapters and regulater,

...

is this carb? or FI? if its carb, an elec. fuel pump is $40. hoses are ~$5. regulator? haha nope.

if its FI, the fuel pump will be in the tank.

 

It's a carb...for some reason the T/A's in 84 were all carbed... I've been told that I will still want a regulator. Where would I install the pump at? Up in the front where the hard 3/8's line changes to rubber tubing or should I try and find a place further back near the gas tank?

 

I would put the pump where the line meet and the regulator as close to the carb as possible. If the mechanical pump can pull the fuel from the back then a electric one can to. What kind of regulator are you looking at? Is it a return style? They are more expensive but I am not sure you need one. Maybe someone else can step in there. I know if you use the stock pump or a efi style pump the you have to run a return style but I don't think you would need one with a pump made for a carb. If you plan on ever using nitrous, make sure you get a pump that can support enough fuel.

I haven't heard you need a steel gear though, but I run a flat tappet cam. Use a bronze or poly gear if you can. Gears are way cheaper than cams!

Hill AFB huh? I am up here in alaska at elmendorf afb.

 

by the gas tank, as low to the ground as possible, but not so low it will scrape on the ground. get a mini tubing cutter from adv auto and a couple dorman fuel line repair kits and make yourself a bracket to hold the pump in place.
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i thought you would want it by the gas tank so the pump wouldnt have to work as hard? maybe im wrong... i dont know much about carbs

 

I don't know anything about electric fuel pumps or FI...I've only owned one car with FI and I never did any work to it other than change the oil. I know the mechanical pump is on the engine block and so I figured that would be a good place to put the pump, or close to it anyway. But after researching, it seems the electrics should be back by the tank.

 

I have a guy in my shop that just PCS'd down from Eilson...how's our 3rd Gen handle the Alaskan Winters?

 

Your on track,now.You do,indeed want it as close to the tank as possible,electric pumps are designed to push,not pull fuel.I'd recomend a Holley Red pump if it's a relatively mild engine,it will deliver all the fuel you need at 6-7 psi,no need for a regulator or return line,and they cost around $100.Saves on the budget and I've had good luck with them as far as reliability goes.

 

I drove mine all winter with studs on it and it was just fine.

 

I mounted the fuel pump on the sheet metal above the axle behind the rear seats. I just eyeballed where i wanted it from underneath and then folded the back seat rest down and found the spot and drilled through. Hopefully that will work for me. I'm now waiting for summit to deliver the new NPT adapters because I bout "an" adapters. stupid me.