ZR1-IROC-RS

Just to mention, the front brakes, spindles/rotors, suspension, A-arms, and steering gear/linkage came home today. All the Parts are onsite.

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

You know what, I'd rather you got your advice on fiddling with the proportioning valve from somebody else. I'm not sure where the residual pressure valve is and don't want to talk you into messing it up as you are concerned about all the OEM safety features.

Going to get all those parts on this weekend?

ZR1-IROC-RS

Oh, I thought you had performed the operation before. Ok...I'll hunt. All this weekend....by myself in the driveway? I wish I'll feel accomplished if I get the brake mod assembly complete by the end of the weekend then installed and adjusted by early next week...then I can start sizing up the rear end swap in terms of how much down time it'll take. Any recommendation on whose a good brake guy to ask?

ZR1-IROC-RS

Ok...so understanding the combination valve...3 PARTS

The front and rear sections here I'll refer by brake line routing not front and rear of the car.

1. The rear section = stock factory proportioning that limits rear fluid flow at a certain point in the brake curve reducing pressure to the rear brakes and preventing 'lockup'.
ONLY THE SPRING AND PLUNGER(TUBE) SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THIS SECTION WHEN INSTALLING AN ADJUSTABLE VALVE TO DISABLE IT'S PROPORTIONING FUNCTION IN FAVOR OF THE UPLINE ADJUSTABLE VALVE. Essentially I'm replacing the proportioning function of the combination valve with the upline adjustable one. I'm not removing rear proportioning from the brake system as a whole, I'm just changing the device that controls it.

2. Pressure safety switch (middle)= sits between the front/rear channels in the combo valve and detects a drop in line pressure on either side and turns on the failure light. This will function in the stock combo valve as designed regardless of proportioning modifications.

3. The front section = metering valve. ~100 psi hold off to allow for REAR DRUM shoes contact prior to front pad grab. This is required under rear drum/front disc operation.

IS THIS REQUIRED FOR DISC/DISC operation? Without rear drums and ~equal contact distance for pads-rotors does the front need to still be metered? Are there any negative side effects to retaining the metering function after 4wd upgrade? or should it be removed once the disc upgrade is complete?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I'm just using a basic 2pc RMS 350 block. I got it from a friend who seems to collect these things. He had 3 of them laying around waiting to be rebuilt and needed the room. Sold me the complete short block minus cam, 2 pairs of heads, another bare 350 block and crank, intake manifold and a 5 gallon bucket full of SBC bolts and parts for $50. The block I'm using had spun a bearing when the oil pump gave out. So far, I've got just under $800 into my swap. That includes replacing all the bushings in the front suspension along with the sway bar and coil springs as well as rebuilding the transmission.

As far as who to contact about brakes on here, look up ebmiller. He seems to be the brake guru around here.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Nice deal on the block and good pricing on the suspension. I'm still looking for the motor, but I have enough prework to keep me busy for a while. Will do on the eb lookup...I've heard that name so that's probably a good source...

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

He has a thread I subscribed to a while back on converting the rear drums to discs and sells conversion kits for several different brake swaps for our cars as well as for S10s and G-Bodies. If anyone would know about the proportioning valves and/or modifying them, it should be him. He can be hard to get hold of at times.

ZR1-IROC-RS

I sent him a PM with my immediate questions. I think once I've got this prop valve thing worked out, I'm golden for the brake mod.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Originally PMed by ZR1-IROC-RS
eb, I was referred to you for questions about this upgrade/modification I'm in the process of a camaro disc/drum to disc/disc conversion...87 rear disc, 91 front disc...I intend to install an adjustable inline prop valve after a 90 factory combo valve (drum/disc) to adjust for the new discs and off year caliper set and oversized tires, and then again later on after the engine/trans swap. My question relates to the combination valve modifications, I understand I need to disable it's internal proportioning before running into the adjustable, my concern is that by removing the spring/plunger and just plugging it, I don't want to defeat any safety features in the combo valve (is there any beyond the failure sensor?). For now, on the front side I understand it has built in metering to compensate for the rear drum return spring...when I swap the rear end to disc (the adjustable valve assembly is going in first and will get dialed in for drums initially so...I shouldn't remove the metering yet?), should I also remove the metering components from the front brake channel in the valve as it may not be neccessary anymore with 4 wheel disc?

Thanks,
John

You are right that you'd need to "gut" the stock valve in order to run the adjustable valve behind it. There's no other safety features other than the failure sensor so you're good there.

Sweet. So it's just about ready for fittings then.

I'm not sure how you would do the plug mod (various methods) but that will serve the purpose. Remove the rear comp circuit (bypass it) but leave the front system alone, the fronts see full pressure and this portion doesn't need to be changed. Hope this cleared it up a bit.

Ed

Very much Ed, thank you. I can call this the authoritative word on moving forward with the valve mod and adjustable install.

Now to plan the fittings/adapters and get the assembly together.

Does it matter whether the adjustable prop is pre or post the disabled combo valve?

ZR1-IROC-RS

So here's the prop valve mod...now to figure out what to plug it with.

ZR1-IROC-RS

The summit racing prop valve got ordered today. SUM-G3905. Almost went with speedway, but this one included it's fittings

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I would just take the end cap from your valve and the proportioning valve to the local Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware. Go to the plumbing section and find a brass cap fitting that matches the threads on that cap. Put some sealant on it and thread it into the valve. Shouldn't be more than a few $$. If they don't have the right fitting, you can always check at your local Autozone/Advance/O'Reillys/etc. They usually have a large stack of drawers with all sorts of fittings in them behind the counter. They should have something in there that will work.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Yup that's pretty much the plan...I figure I have a couple days until the valve comes in, so the next step is to plan out the assembly, I'd rather make one trip instead of three. I'll post some sketches as the plan comes together.

ZR1-IROC-RS

So, does anyone know whether it matters if the adj prop is installed before or after the combo block? I'm thinking that if I need to alter a stock line bend and accidentally crack one the MC line is shorter and easier to replace than the whole brake line to the back of the car. Does that make sense?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

No, it doesn't matter where you put it in. It shouldn't be left hanging from the lines though.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Ideally, I'd like to find a 2 sided fitting and I'd like to mount it directly to the top of the combo block (no line in between), I'll just need one new/fabbed MC line if I can do that. One nice short line, minimal existing system disruption

(unfortunately the junkyard trip didn't net me the rears MC line, someone had already cut it out, but left the combo side tube nut with about an inch of tube, NAPA's site listed the rears MC line size/threading)

...other than that though how else could I secure it? it doesn't have a mounting bracket or the like, only weighs a half pound.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Ok...I've found something like the thread to nut to thread connector I'm looking for, but I'm have a very hard time trying to understand how these things are spec'd.

Apparently it's called a 'union fitting'. I need one side threaded sae 1/8" npt (the prop side) and the other side metric 1.5 (combo side)...any ideas?

ZR1-IROC-RS

Hey...look at that...I went from 'Junior Member' to 'Member'...I wonder if it was the 100th post or 3 months of active registration that put me over?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

Congratulations. Most people don't hit a 100 posts in one thread though!

If you can find all the pieces to screw the two proportioning valves together that would probably be fine. Might be simpler to find a convenient solid place to mount the valve for easy adjustment and route lines to it. You don't want it vibrating the lines to fatigue them or twist the lines when you are adjusting the ****. That guy in PA is the only place I ever found that carried all these oddball metric bubble flare fittings (even though most GM and Ford vehicles use them).

ZR1-IROC-RS

What can I say...my intention was to record every step of my engine swap...I've never done this before and I have alot of questions as I go. I'd think any novice would probably ask most of these things...very many jobs I'm seeing for the first time. I'd like to believe this thread will help future Camaro owners for years to come The guy in PA, I'll have to go back to his link you posted...I'll check it out (though this time with a little clearer idea of what I'm looking for)

ZR1-IROC-RS

Problem..., the kevin-autopartsmart@yahoo.com address is apparently no longer valid...do you have any other contact info for him?

ZR1-IROC-RS

Ok, so the summit racing adjustable proportioning valve arrived today...I think I'm getting a bit more understanding as to fittings and sizes...the connector nuts that came with it are spec'd 1/8"-27NPT...now it's clearer that 1/8" is the hole diameter and 27NPT is the thread size...(didn't get that before)...so after a few measurements...the rear MC line is a 6mm dia. line (for some reason the front line is a 5mm/5.5mm line), all bubble flared (instead of inverted flare)...so I have plenty of 6mm brake line to fab the new rear MC line with (which I have an inverted flare tool, and all my 6mm lines have at least one bubble flared end for the MC side and with all the specs floating around I might have a tube nut to slide over the line for the MC side connection or I'll have to buy that one.)...

so starting from the MC...a remanufactured OEM MC for a 1991 (identical to the 1990) Cam RS specs the output ports as "Line Thread Size:M11 X 1.5;m12 X 1.0". M11/12 being the wrench?...1.5/1.0 being the threading...the front MC line which I have intact has the (although the 14mm wrench fit's the nuts...so if anyone can shed light on what M11 is supposed to mean I'd appreciate it...hole diameter maybe?) 1.5 threading on both sides so via process of elimination the rear MC side connection must be the M12X1.0 (even though the combo valve side of the rear line I have is a 1.5 threading, if someone could confirm the rear MC side threading, that'd be great). in reviewing the specing I've done on the extra lines I got I don't have any 1.0 threaded tube nuts...so I'll need one of those (added to shopping list)...and I'm seeing two ways to connect the prop, either direct with what sounds like it's going to be a really obscure (probably machine shop ordered) union fitting, one side M12x1.5 bubble flare, the other side a 1/8"x27NPT inverted flare....or....two separate lines with two M12 x 27NPT tube nuts....as it sounds more likely that the two separate lines option will be the least time consuming/least costly...I think I'm going with that option...attached is my design...

and the correct fittings I will need to get for this mod are:

Qty. 1 M12 x 1.0 bubble flare tube nut
Qty. 2 M12 x 27NPT inverted flare tube nuts
Qty. 1 1.5 threaded (from other posts 5/8") plug, with teflon taped threads

Tools to bend and flare the lines (which I have onsite)

and somewhere to securely mount the prop valve (I'm open to suggestions)

whew...If I got it right...this doesn't sound so bad...anybody see any errs?

ZR1-IROC-RS

Also, should I be concerned about the hole diameter differences between fittings?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

I hate plumbing: NPT is U.S. National Pipe Thread standard. Your 1/8 x 27NPT is based on the I.D. of a schedule 40 pipe with tapered threads cut into the outside of it. The actual thread is 0.405inch diameter with 27 threads every inch. Don't wory about that, you need to know 1/8 x 27 NPT.

The metric bubble flares are actually specifying the thread. M12 x 1.0 is 12mm in diameter and each full thread is 1mm along the lenght. The M11 x 1.5 is a coarser thread taking 1.5mm to go around once.

You need an adapter that has an 1/8 27 NPT male on one end and a female 12mm x 1.0 inverted flare at the other end to match your diagram as you have layed it out. I haven't found such a fitting. I can't even find multiple fittings to get you from the NPT to your 6mm line in an inverted flare. I'll keep looking. I'd like somebody else to chime in with what they did. Most likely went down to a 3/16 line (4.75mm)

ZR1-IROC-RS

ok...

Ok, I couldn't get the spare M12x1.0 fitting even from the local chevy dealership (or the replacement MC line for that matter -discontinued). I guess I'll have to hack one out of a junkyard.

The dealership and the guy at NAPA steered me away from downsizing the line...but here's what I got so far...

The guy at NAPA grabbed me a 1/4" (6.35mm) inverted flare fitting with one side threaded 1/8" x 27NPT to seat in my summit valve and other side threaded 1.0 metric (thinking I can make up the .35mm difference in the pipe O.D with a couple wraps of teflon tape to seat the nut snug on the end, after all the seal is supposed to be in the flare seating right?) for a 1/4" tube fitting (1.0 threaded for the inverted flare connector. I have the 1.5 bubble flare fitting for the combo valve side and I'm thinking I'll need to scour the junkyard for a M12x1.0 bubble flare fitting for the MC side (trying to keep the originals intact if I need to roll it back for some reason).

How does that sound?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

I don't understand " and other side threaded 1.0 metric". As far as a 1/4" line tube nut slipped over a 6mm line the seal is at the flare as you said and will be fine. Don't put any tape on it.

The guys in PA I mentioned before for the metric fittings:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Metri...Q5fAccessories

Keep in mind you are listening to a guy who spent the last 2 days diagnosing a VATS problem on his LT1 conversion to realize he had a plastic bag over his brand new air filter to keep in clean in the barn. Would run 4 seconds, then die.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Well, I mean, right now I'm fabbing my assembly...I can actually over size the flares to mate properly with 1/4" to 6mm...I need a junkyard trip to yeild me a rear MC line, but I think I've got a handle on the assembly design...been working on it the last couple days actually... Gonna be moving shortly to a location with a big garage for my use......very sweet.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Sorry about the slowdown...tax time so I haven't had much of a chance to play with the car stuff...but they're filed and so it's back on........made the junkyard trip yesterday, $20 netted me the rear MC line with that infernal M15x1.0 tube nut, a heater core connector (mine's got corrosion and sometimes needs to be jiggled to make the connection), and a jet black unrashed dashpad (perfect for lucy and completes my interior restoration short of the front seats which I have slip covers for). Also last week met a local fellow thirdgen fan also working through a restore. He changed over to a solid light taillight set and had a pair of uncracked Iroc tails he just gave me (so now all her lights and lenses are back up to snuff ). so now all the parts I need to fab up the adjustable combo assembly are here...will be tomorrow's/fridays project, I will post pics when it's complete. After that I have to break the front suspension down a bit to get ready to move on over to the garage (so I can lift the pieces instead of the whole assembly )

89RsPower!

What do you mean by a heater core connector?

ZR1-IROC-RS

That's my misstate, I meant heater fan motor connector. Oops.

ZR1-IROC-RS

BIG NEWS!!! Today is the day. I sat down with the flare tool and pipe cutter and all my carefully planned out fittings, took all my measurements and did the job. I'm happy to say the operation went well. everything seated and taped (praying it doesn't leak , any tips there would be appreciated )...so the assembly is completed -pics posted...any installation tips would be greatly appreciated also as I hope to go at the install tomorrow afternoon.

Let me know what you think

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What did you plug it with? I see you have a plug in a later picture.

I ordered a disk/disk valve from a reputable company (I won't say their name here), when it arrived it had in the instructions how to modify it for disk/disk. To say the least, I was severely disappointed, because they didn't include the plug for the job, and I specifically told them before ordering that I wanted a valve for disk/disk - if I had to modify it, I might as well modify the one I had and save the one hundred bucks! I called their customer service tech line, they were of absolutely no help - "You'll have to take it to a hardware store and find a plug". Well, the fine threads on the cap are not NPT.

I found a prop valve without the guts from another outfit with whom I became rather disgusted 5 years ago, renewed my faith in them.

(This was probably mentioned earlier in this long thread, but I would think the adjustable should go after the combo valve, not before it.)

ZR1-IROC-RS

I found a half inch deep 'plug' fitting at my local C.A.P. that fit the bill. If you look back I spec'd out all the combo valve threadings in a pic in this thread if you need to know a particular one, I think it was 1.5 or 1.0 metric...nothing on the combo valve is NPT, but all the adjustable valves are. I used 1/4 fittings and actually overflared the line slightly (I learned 1/4 inch is 6.35mm and since I had 6mm stock lines to work with I figured a little oversize on the flare should cover me with a good seat...)

That just doesn't make any sense to me. If you ordered a disc/disc valve, why should you have had to modify it?

I still have my stock one (in case I need to back out of the assembly install). The one pictured I got out of a yard for nothing with a couple feet of the surrounding lines and all the valve side tube nuts intact. The second yard trip netted me the rear MC line (really just for the oddball tubenut on the MC side). It allowed me to build the assembly out of my vehicle at my leisure without disabling my car in the mean time (I had to learn to flare and I had to spec out all the nuts and lines and learn how to do all that ). The entire assembly cost me the adjustable valve and a couple bucks for fittings <$40 in total, I even rented the flare tool and borrowed the pipe cutter.

That cool...this adjustable setup I figure should cover anything else I choose to do that may affect the breaking ability of the car. Corvette rotors, my disc brake conversion, the weight and suspension changes of the engine upgrade. Now if I feel like it's off I can just tweak it as required.

The combo, once gutted, doesn't do anything on the rear brake side but connect the MC line to the rear line. I really just kept the combo in there to keep the 'Brake pressure failure sensor' functional. The combo is now just an oversized coupler since it no longer does any proportioning, I rationalized that I'd rather mod the short easily replaceable MC line rather than mess with the long under the car to the rear line because if I messed it up....I asked myself which was going to be easier to fix. I did ask though if it mattered before/after and I was advised that it didn't. So long as I kept the valve below the MC resevoir (so it bleeds well/easily). I checked the placement also and the adjustment **** should come up right behind the power steering line with plenty of room for the pipe. At this point I figure it's wrench out, wrench in, adjust and tighten.

ZR1-IROC-RS

[/ATTACH]So it's done!!! The adjustable brake assembly is installed!!! WOOOHOOO....Lucy's first 'aftermarket' upgrade...testing now actually feels better already (I have it set at maximum reduction and I'm not getting anywhere near as much nose dip in braking as I was) and that's with the drums. Me and my buddy Jay got together and did it all up took about 4hours including the bleed time (which I may have to go at again once the system settles, but for now it's pretty good) on all 4 wheels. Here's the assembly pics!!! Thanks to everybody for the great advice and the patience and help. Now it's on to the disc brake locking rear install, then the front suspension, and then the sbc350 , but for tonight I'm drinking to a success!!

ZR1-IROC-RS

And just because I was there, here's a pic of the only High flow intake 3.1L MFI I've ever heard of

ZR1-IROC-RS

Ok...so while road tesing the new setup last night I noticed that when I pressed the brake pedal to the floor, the brake warning light would come on. I had the proportioning dialed to 'maximum reduction' at the time. So I reasoned that the pressure sensor in the combo valve must be reacting to the lowering of the brake curve. so I got under there and started dialing up the rear pressure and noticed as I did so the light would trigger lower and lower in the pedal travel, so I dialed it up until the light would not come on with the pedal fully depressed. So given that I was under the curve and I raised the curve based on the sensor's equal pressure requirements. I take this to mean at this point I'm at the 'bottom' of the acceptable break curve. I'm feeling like this is not the 'ideal' setting for my car, so in absence of a long sandy strip to try and skid the car on to see where front to rear relative lockups occurs? maybe a judgement in weight shift/suspension reaction under hard braking or something?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

That's too bad. In hind sight the warning light problem would be fixed by having the adjustable valve after the combo block (an warning light switch).

You still want the weight to shift to the front. The only way I know to dial it in is have it some place you can do hard stops from 35MPH, let off when you feel it lock up. Would help to have some one outside watching. I can't always tell which is locking up from the driver's seat. Better if you do the watching if you can find a buddy you can depend on to not grind big flat spots into your tires.

ZR1-IROC-RS

No biggie, not really a problem...I'm thinking it's given be a gauge for a 'base setting'. I started with the thing completely closed which I was sure was safe, but certainly nowhere near idea. I didn't have to turn it up that far before I overcame the light sensor and if all the way out was 57% reduction and all the way in is 0% reduction then I should be at around 20-25% reduction right now. Had it out in the rain and didn't have any issues. Still playing with it though...need an afternoon and a good spot (sand/gravel hopefully) to do some real testing. Keeping my eyes out now and I think I know a couple dirt roads out in some of the hill towns out here I can use but if anyone knows of any common ideal spot types (that I may be able to find local equivalents), but I can assuredly say that the brakes still work and I'm fairly confident they're working safely and are definately still front biased. Is there any 'feel' indications that I may have dialed too far, suspension reaction to weight transfer, nose dipping or lack thereof, etc. (assuming stock suspension on good street with good tires)?

I've got a buddy I can depend on to watch I couldn't let any but me take the chance testing the brakes, god forbid something go wrong, if the car goes out of control and gets totaled because of what I did to the brake system, I should be the one in the seat taking the impact chance.

I also understand that front to rear bias plays into oversteer/understeer, to test that should I also test hard braking under cornering?

Maybe, should the suspension 'balance' under hard stop @ 35mph (no bottoming, just kind of balancing from the rear to front to level). Maybe some judgment around center of gravity?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

To control cornering braking you are going to need some sort of ABS traction control system to monitor and adjust for the different wheel speeds. So I wouldn't be worried about that.

No the suspension should not balance under hard stop. Your suspension and C.G. will dictate how much your car pitches forward. Obviously if your brakes are really grabbing the car should pitch forward more than the same vehicle with bad brakes. It's simply wanting all the brakes to lock up at the same time to get the most out of each of them. Gravel road marbles and bumps is not the best place for fine adjustment but it will get you in the ball park.

ZR1-IROC-RS

Ok, well I figured the loose road (gravel/sand) would show me the 'lockup' points easier than hot pavement.

ZR1-IROC-RS

So...will be fiddling with the brakes now probably for a while...beyond that though, the next step in the upgrade brings me to my rear-end swap now that the brake system is prepared for it. Is the 87 differential housing I have the same length as the 91 differential I have in there now? Should I expect to need a custom driveshaft? Does anyone know the length measurements of stock driveshafts for the 87 and 91? also the 'thickness' of a v6 driveshaft vs. a v8 driveshaft?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

They are all the same, except for the diameter of aluminum vs. steel driveshafts.

ZR1-IROC-RS

That's good to know, should mean it'd be an in and out swap at this point , so about steel vs. alum driveshafts diameter differences?....do you know the 'ratings (hp/torque)' difference? Which is better/stronger? Which is lighter? any idea which came in a stock v6?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I don't know about torque ratings.

V6 would be steel. Steel 3rd gen driveshafts are 3", aluminum 3rd gen driveshafts are 3-1/2", and aluminum 4th gen driveshafts are 4". I don't know about steel 4th gen.

ZR1-IROC-RS

So is aluminum then required (or a performance option) for the V8? (I would presume because of torque/horsepower or longevity). If you know for a fact that the v6 is steel, will that steel drive shaft hold up to 400/400?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Aluminum was a later-year option. Almost all 3rd gen driveshafts were steel.

A plain V6/V8 steel driveshaft will take more than the rear end will.

ZR1-IROC-RS

So, since I've already dealt with the brakes, the driveshafts are the same, the differentials housings are the same length...is there anything else anyone can think of that I should concern myself with or be prepared for doing the changeover before the car is disabled up on blocks?

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

Nothing that you would need to do. I seem to like braking the brake hard lines when I try to take them apart. Start giving the fasteners and brake line fittings a shot of PB Blaster at least a day ahead of time.
List of things that would cross my mind while rear end is out of the way.
-Drop gas tank and get crud out, new fuel pump sock. Not worth the aggrevation IMO.
-Drop gas tank for new fuel pump for V8 upgrade. $ doesn't need to be spent yet.
-Replace control arm bushings. Can always do later.
-Box control arms if you have a welder. Can always do later.
-Replace shocks. Can always do later.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I would add "Replace Coil Springs with V8/performance springs." You might as well do it while the rear is out since you have to drop it anyhow. You'll also need them for the V8 swap. Of course, if you aren't doing the swap for a while yet, you should probably wait till then. If it will be a couple weeks, I'd do it now.

One other thing that just popped into my head would be "POR-15 the underside of the rear" while everything is out of the way.

ZR1-IROC-RS

I've got a new inline filter I planned on doing while I was under there...is there a difference from the 'sock'...so 'in tank' maintenance...hmmm, hadn't considered that...how difficult/long would something like that take? (trying to minimize undrivable time, figuring the rear change over itself may likely take a few days)

It requires a different fuel pump?...ooh, hadn't thought about that. Checking the parts stores I seem to be getting conflicting information as to whether or not the pumps actually change output pressure, or whether the casing design is different for the different fuel tank sizes...Shouldn't i wait until I select an engine and intake to figure out how much pressure the fuel pump will need to put out to support it rather than blindly buy the v8 pump assuming it'll put out the right pressure for an LT or LS or maybe even if I drop a gen I carbed in? Seems like it would be engine/intake specific. Think I'll wait on that for actual engine/fuel system redesign. I will probably prefer to remove the intank pump all together in favor of an inline pump (for accessibility and such) if I'm going to go so far as to change the pump anyways and the whole thing has to come apart.

Control arms...are those the two arms that are coming off the rear end extending towards the front of the car (which were included with the rear end assembly and have good/nearly new bushings in them).

What does that mean...box the control arms? I don't have a welder, but my buddy does

I replaced the rear shocks last season as part of my 'get a sticker' baselining...I have new springs and bars for the front/rear that I did plan on putting in. are the v8 shocks differnt in the rear?