Ok, so I'm starting to think about doing my own 350 swap and start from the block up. Right now I've got a 305 carb. and want to put a carbed 350 in. What I wanted to ask was: Does anyone have any suggestions on what to pull a 350 block out of? Year/Make/Model? I see there's a few styles(?) out there: 4bolt, 2bolt, 1 & 2 pc. rear main seal?? I'm planning on doing some learning along the way.

Of course, I'm gonna' be visiting a junkyard to get it.
Appreciate any help, thanks!

 

look for 93-95+ vortec 350 truck/suv motors.
they are roller blocks. allows you to use roller cams.
the heads are pretty good also, if budget build

 

I would look for a 87+ 2 bolt main roller block. These were common in gm pickups and some passenger cars.

The reason for the 2 bolt main is that 1. they support the power most budget builds end up with and 2. If you decide to build it, you can go splayed 4 bolt which is much stronger than a stock 4 bolt setup. You can find these in a variety of gm pickups and even in some tbi caprices.

Locating a 95+ Vortec Longblock may be hard so consider grabbing a shortblock and picking up a set of budget friendly heads like a set of assembled RHS pro torker or Patriot performance 185cc vortec heads.

 

look for a pick up truck from the seventies. the casting on the block will be 3970010 and it should have 882 heads. it's a 2 piece rear main. you can buy after market 202 heads from summit for about 800 bucks. if you use the right cam and intake with this set up you'll have about 400 horses.
i have this set up with the stock 882 heads and i have about 320 horses. i didnt have the cash for the 202 heads from summit but my buddy does have those heads in his truck and he had 410 horse power at the flywheel.

 

The "Vortec" engines didn't come out until 1996.

Truck heads '95-earlier are worse than your 305 heads.

 

note the part where he said buy 202 heads! buy an engine from a 79' or older chevy c10. the cranks never break- and it's a 4 bolt main set up. if your building it from block up- expect to spend some money, and invest in good heads. I recomend brodix ik200 heads. they flow off the charts, and there pretty reasonable...add a fair to large sized cam and lifter set,decent intake (edelbrock torquer 2 or better)and a double pumper(unless you want to play hard- then add a big shot 250 and go all forged -looking at 5000 to do it right) lets us know how things go p.s. don't let some jerk tell ya that you can get away with spending a couple thou and coming out with an awesome engine... doesn't happen! --------------- fast cars and fast women- both cost you a fortune!

 

I personnaly found and bought a 350 4 bolt from a 1500 pick up 1984. It all fits and runs good in my TA! Good search!

 

Hye-Tech has a 355 short block for $1000, good for a nice pre-86 budget 350.

 

Yeah, this is going to be somewhat of a budget build I guess. I'm not looking for anything too hardcore, but there isn't gonna' be any skimping. Definitely want this thing to last a long time.
Now that I have a few things to look for I can start heading out to some junkyards to see what I can pull up.

Also, since this block is going to be coming from a junkyard, I'm expecting it to be in a bit of a rundown condition. Anyone know an average cost for having a block re-bored and such? If you've had yours done what did they charge? I know an SK-Speed shop nearby so I'll be talking to the machine shop guys there soon. Just wanted to hear from the rest of ya'.

Thanks for the suggestions, can't wait to get this started!!

 

I bought a 350 with casting # 3970010. 69-79 iron block. Mines a 2 bolt most likely out of an impala. Im using 1999" 062 Vortec heads. Comp beehive springs, comp cam dual energy 275 cam and lifter kit, stock bottom end, engine is already bored .30 over. Comp Dual roller timing chain, Hooker 2055 headers with 3" cutouts. Edelbrock Vortec ESP dual plane intake, Demon Speed demon 650 carb with vacum secondaires. Lots more to the build. I have a thread on my build if your looking to follow.

 

boring and honing is about 12 bucks per hole- no matter the bore size (in mobile, al.)if it needs to be deck plained you looking a little more. i just got mine bored honed and vatted for less than 300. if you need a cam, i've got a lunati street cam (part number 12-222-4) with lifters for 75. the cam alone is 139. at summitracin.com if you pay the shipping, i'll send it your way. it's like brand new let me know

 

I believe your part number is wrong as it shows up as a Comp Cam Magnum camshaft.

 

I got my 350 from an '84 vette-got it for $1200 from
a corvette junkyard back in '94, had to change the pan
and pickup as the 'vette items were different.
Still going strong-was a great buy

 

On my size 400$ canadian ... The guy thougt it was a 305 in is pick up and with some research with the code i found it was 350 4 bolt! plus the block was rebuilt from another fiew years ago! We done with a friend all the stuff you need to go on with the TA with my son that was 14 at this time... he is now a fan of muscle car and... Third gen! Good school for him! Be please for my writing i'm from Québec eadn talk in french most of the time;-))

 

Well, I found a guy near me selling a chevy 350 block for $500. It doesn't look bad; maybe I'll grab this fast.
Any ideas??

"chevy 350 4 bolt main, early "010" casting. Machine shop fresh. .060 bored and honed, new cam bushings and brass freeze plugs. Painted, bagged, ready to go."

 

same casting # as my block. good iron block. looks like a good start? crank or anything else come with it? Steel cranks are relatively cheap if your looking to gain a lil more hp. get some nice dished aluminum pistons and a good set of rings and your good to go.

 

I would stay away from .060 bore block for a SBC. You better have an awesome cooling system. Plus no future rebuilds with that block.

Keep looking, there are deals to be had. Last year I bought a 4 bolt main 350 Vortec with 50k miles on it for $150 on Craigslist from a guy that lives only 2 miles from me. He had just posted the ad & I was the 1st caller.

 

you're completely right- thats my new cam- sorry i'll check my part number and get back to ya...

 

bored 60 over means no more room to bore in the future.. try to find either and original block or something .040 over or less it'll last longer... .060 is ok, but after that it's thin ice... aka useless