Motor Swap?!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 3
From: Sussex County, NJ
Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Motor Swap?!
Alright I have a 1984 Firebird Trans Am that originally came with a high output 305 and a T5. The 305 wasn't cutting it anymore so I built a mild 350 (.216/.238 duration cam, 305 heads revalved and ported - 10:1 compression, bored .30 over). I installed a zoom clutch and pressure plate to handle the difference in power (would the stock clutch have been fine?).
I have done many motor swaps in full size trucks and one where I just drop the trans (in a S10) and the others you could just slip the motor in. My question is what is the technique in getting another small block back into the firebird? I have tried a few techniques and they were all nightmares. I dropped the trans, I've tried taking off the driver's side motor mount (from the block not the shell on the cross member), and of course I tried just slipping the motor in the good old fashion way... nothing worked and I just wasted hours on end trying. It seems too tight to do with the firewall. The motor is partially dressed, I took the alternator, carb and power steering pump off, I left the water pump and balancer on the motor. Radiator and heater core is out. Distributor cap is off.
Any tips on doing this? I have never put a motor into a thirdgen but both times I pulled motors out of third gens it was a really tight pull. Should I bolt the trans back up to the cross member on the trans and put the strut(?) for the four link back on? What is the secret?
I have done many motor swaps in full size trucks and one where I just drop the trans (in a S10) and the others you could just slip the motor in. My question is what is the technique in getting another small block back into the firebird? I have tried a few techniques and they were all nightmares. I dropped the trans, I've tried taking off the driver's side motor mount (from the block not the shell on the cross member), and of course I tried just slipping the motor in the good old fashion way... nothing worked and I just wasted hours on end trying. It seems too tight to do with the firewall. The motor is partially dressed, I took the alternator, carb and power steering pump off, I left the water pump and balancer on the motor. Radiator and heater core is out. Distributor cap is off.
Any tips on doing this? I have never put a motor into a thirdgen but both times I pulled motors out of third gens it was a really tight pull. Should I bolt the trans back up to the cross member on the trans and put the strut(?) for the four link back on? What is the secret?
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 493
Likes: 0
From: Big Rock,IL
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-Bolt LSD
Re: Motor Swap?!
this isnt the right board for this but, I had no problem dropping my engine in. I did it as block, heads, intake and headers. I used a load leveler, set it in, slid the bolts through the clamshell of the motor mount and put the tranny up. At the same time as i swapped engines I swapped to 5 speed.
WOAH. Pretty sure someone moved this to the right board while I was responding.
WOAH. Pretty sure someone moved this to the right board while I was responding.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 3
From: Sussex County, NJ
Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Motor Swap?!
I'm so confused. When I dropped the trans I was able to slide the input shaft into the pressure plate and I spun the crank until the teeth lined up but the bell housing of the trans hit the firewall about an inch before the motor mounts sat on the clam shells. Thinking about it now I feel like my trans was too far jacked up.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Either put the engine in (bellhousing on) with the transmission out of the way and then stab the transmission onto the engine, or put the engine and transmission together out of the car and stab them together.
I wouldn't be as worried about the clutch as I would about the life expectancy of the T5. The Zoom clutch might last longer in front of the T5, but the T5 would last longer behind a stock clutch (maybe).
I wouldn't be as worried about the clutch as I would about the life expectancy of the T5. The Zoom clutch might last longer in front of the T5, but the T5 would last longer behind a stock clutch (maybe).
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Mid-State North Carolina
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: Comp Controled 350 w/ carb
Transmission: 5 Speed
Re: Motor Swap?!
I used five7kid's method with a small jack underneath the car to raise the bellhousing to align motor mount holes. Left the motor in downward tilt to install T-5.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 3
From: Sussex County, NJ
Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Motor Swap?!
Motor is in, need headers and a carb spacer now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYexZS65W7Q
First fire up was earlier today. Four link is busted from the strut that runs to the trans and the drive shaft is out so it doesn't drive. Throttle is sticking on the carb, it is idling higher then it should, at like 23-25 seconds into the video is the real idle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYexZS65W7Q
First fire up was earlier today. Four link is busted from the strut that runs to the trans and the drive shaft is out so it doesn't drive. Throttle is sticking on the carb, it is idling higher then it should, at like 23-25 seconds into the video is the real idle.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






